Tag: Features

  • Karma Skincare

    Karma Skincare

    It’s what’s on inside that counts

    At the age of 40 and still battling with her skin, Lesley decided to leave her life in finance and retrain in the beauty industry, where she began studying therapies and ingredients. She was shocked, as most of us are when we start to think about what we are actually being sold in the pretty packaged bottles. The inclusion of, more often than not, bovine, fish or porcine sources, preservatives and chemicals isn’t really what human skin needs. The multi-billion-euro beauty industry works tirelessly to convince us of the next must-have, miracle cream when we should be looking back to our friend, Mother Nature for help.

    The mainstream creams and lotions are mostly not vegan-friendly, kosher or halal, but more importantly, they can be damaging, as Lesley found out: “My skin was making a cry for help with the acne and fine lines. After some tests, I discovered I was allergic to many of the chemical components. Nearly all skincare products are made from the same ingredients, so that made me wonder if I could create skincare products without chemicals.”

    On completing her Aromatherapy and Advanced Aromatherapy exams, a journey of wholesome discovery and many years of research and development began. Soon after, Lesley came to the Algarve in 2010, in search of a better, more relaxed lifestyle where she continued building her boutique skincare manufacturing business, Karma Skincare.

    “Karma Skincare is a vegan, gluten-free range of products, which is created with only pure, natural ingredients. Everything that I use in my products is halal-compliant and very importantly, palm oil-free. I only use the power of plants and minerals to improve your skin. If you put something good on your skin, then it will respond and glow. If you use chemicals or animal-derived ingredients, your skin will complain and cause you problems.”

    Speaking to Inside at Sisters Hairdressing Salon, in Alvor, Lesley explained her process: “I source all of the ingredients myself and make countless batches before finding the right balance. After some field studies, I send new products to a UK laboratory for clinical testing and certification.” The Karma Skincare range is continuously growing, with a full-face range, highly acclaimed insect repellent and after-bite products, and one of her best-sellers, the Magnesium and Aloe rub — one client wrote that muscle and joint swelling went down in a day following using, whereas the hospital said it could take six months. Having heard so many good reviews, it was time to try Karma Skincare for ourselves. At the entrance of the salon, the full range is on display, with the facial products, Karma Cleanse, Karmatone, Karma Hydrating / Karma Renewal, the bestselling Karma Skin Tightening Intensive facial oils and Karma Night cream. Just to the side, the body range is on display with three very popular products, the Buzz Free and After Bug gels and the soothing rub.

    Downstairs, in Lesley’s therapy room, there’s a selection of products and a treatment bed where I had an amazing Instant Boost Mini Facial, using the full day-care range along with a soothing chamomile oil and French clay mask. The facial was incredibly relaxing, and the products smelled fantastic. Lesley also used the Magnesium and Aloe rub on my shoulders and had the knots rubbed out in no time. Once all of the oils and mask had done their job, the treatment followed with a micro-current facial, using a high-frequency current and light to finish off.

    Ingredients like the pure rose water used in the Karmatone are one of the reasons that Lesley does everything herself. If she were to outsource her production, a manufacturer would likely not use such pure, high-quality ingredients, as they would be looking at the profit margins too closely.

    Having suffered from skin complaints in the past, Lesley knows only too well what an effect it can have on someone’s confidence. This is precisely why everything is done in-house. You can buy Karma Skincare online or pop into Sisters for a treatment.

    www.karmaskincare.co.uk

    Text Mia Wallace
    Photos Chloe Ophelia
  • The One

    The One

    Fine dining at Tivoli Carvoeiro

    With one foot firmly set in Portugal, The One Gourmet Restaurant of the Tivoli Carvoeiro Hotel & Resort enjoys a spectacular view out over the glistening Atlantic. Here, the chef and his team celebrate the abundantly available fruits of the nearby sea and countryside to the north.

    Dining at The One is a journey through Portugal, with recipes full of considerable ethnic influences. Executive chef Bruno Augusto has an impressive pedigree, with experience both internationally and locally with Vila Vita, in Porches, The Ritz, Cascais Miragem, near Lisbon, and, more recently, Vale d’Oliveiras, right here in Carvoeiro. Now in place at the pass of Tivoli Carvoeiro, the young chef is full of enthusiasm and creativity.

    Applying French technique and Asian minimalism, The One has a sophisticated style and presentation. The restaurant itself isn’t all about the view — but what a view it is. The décor has tonnes of natural fabrics in the wall coverings, and a central, curved green velvet bench takes centre stage, offering a variety of comfortable seating options. There is also a sprinkling of individual tables towards the terrace area leading onto the minimalistic dressed setting that soaks up the endless sea view in front of it. The ambience is perfect for sitting back and enjoying the dining experience ahead.

    The team are knowledgeable, and a wine pairing dinner is a fabulous option for guests who are happy to leave their fate in the capable hands of sommelier Francisco Meira, who takes great pleasure in delivering a bespoke pairing to suit the guests’ taste. Franciso is keen to showcase the best offerings from local winemakers and has a fabulous wine cellar at his disposal, taking the dining experience to another level.

    The menu is varied with fish, meat and vegetarian options. It also has a good range of balance with a vegetarian tasting menu, which is fairly unusual in the Algarve. The produce that chef Augusto is using is top class, with deep flavours of wild fish, organic vegetables and local meats featuring throughout the menus. Guests can enjoy an à la carte experience at The One, should they prefer something a little lighter with individual dishes or sharing options giving great flexibility. Diners will find the service to be attentive yet relaxed, which fits in well with the general vibe of the resort.

    The One is located next to the Azur Bar, where both resort guests and non-residents are welcome to enjoy a drink and lounge whilst enjoying piped music and a warm sea breeze. Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean on the Vale Covo cliffside, Tivoli Carvoeiro is a fully refurbished five-star hotel and resort, ensuring spectacular experiences in luxury surroundings. There are 248 suites and rooms with different capacities, including family suites and luxurious rooms with Jacuzzi tubs on the terrace. The gym is available for non-residents too, under a membership scheme, and has a sauna and steam room on the side of it, making it a perfect hang out for the winter months. An indoor pool and Jacuzzi can be found on a lower floor as can the large outdoor pool.

    The spa is also open to everyone. Once inside, guests are transported to a haven of tranquillity where the beauticians work their magic. Ceramics made especially for Tivoli by local icon Porches Pottery are dotted around, highlighting the company’s ethos of sustainability and involving the community. The décor is a fresh blend of Asian and Portuguese and creates an elegant and calming environment.

    www.tivolihotels.com

    Text Mia Wallace
    Photos Filipe Farinha/Stills
  • Artistic licence

    Artistic licence

    Long-time local resident and highly skilled craftsman David Pearce opens a portrait studio in Ferragudo

    Staying with the theme of the 50th edition of Inside Carvoeiro magazine, we stopped by Ferragudo to see our old friend David. Having presented his stunning handcrafted wooden boats in a previous edition, we were pleased to hear that he was doing something a little less physical now that he’s in his 70s.

    David now dedicates his time to painting portraits. Using watercolour, acrylic and oils, he’s always keen to find a medium to enhance the commissioning customers’ memory of the subject they want. “I work from photographs,” said the artist. “People come to me with a photo of their pets, people or places and I get to it.” With many of his commissions being of loved ones and pets, he takes great joy out of delivering the final pieces and seeing the emotion on the faces of the buyers.

    When asked about his formal training, David explained: “I studied art at Worthing College, in West Sussex, where I later went back to teach for a brief period. I then trained as an architect, which was probably a terrible thing to do as a free artist, everything began to be very linear. Although, saying that, it did give me discipline, which is always welcome,” he joked. As an internationally acclaimed portrait artist, previously with studios in California and London, the artist’s modest gallery in the Algarve is located on Rua da Hortinha, in Ferragudo, next to the coffee shops. He usually spends his mornings here working on commissions, and, if the door is closed, he’s never too far away.

    David is a man of many talents. He has sailed and lived around the world, is a highly skilled carpenter and even turned his hand to the restaurant business. People may remember him from the old Tasca David, where he was known to serve the best ribs in the Algarve for years. There aren’t many people around like him, a lovely, funny and fascinating character who has chosen to settle in this sleepy corner of the world. That is quite an endorsement considering that he has been to so many places.

    David welcomes a subject for portrait painting commissions that touches your heart: painted portraits of family, pets, landscapes or even your home. For an initial quotation, he requires a good quality photo of the subject for the portrait painting in person, by email or post. You can see some examples of his work on his website or pop into his studio and have a chat about what you would like to achieve. David is a master craftsman, and if you’re looking for something out of the ordinary, he would be more than happy to get creative.

    There’s the saying, “Jack of all trades, master of none”; and then there’s David, who’s a master of many.

    www.pearceportraits.com

  • Retreat in Alamos

    Retreat in Alamos

    The new adults-only B&B is perfect to recharge and enjoy some precious relaxation time

    When we heard that one of our favourite hotel managers was setting up a boutique retreat, we were very excited to see what Lourenço Ribeiro and his lovely wife Luisa had created. Positioned in between the Atlantic Ocean and Guia, Lourenço and Luisa have taken their extensive travel knowledge and experience and made great use of it. What they have achieved is a real haven away from the hustle and bustle of Algarve summer life.

    This is a place to relax, listen to the birds gently chirping in the trees and take some time for yourself. There are eight country-chic, luxuriously boho-styled rooms from 19sqm to a whopping 30sqm, furnished with natural fabrics and linens with accents from local artisans. The size and sensation of natural flow and light that encapsulates these spaces will take you by surprise. Each room has an open-plan shower area with organic toiletries by French brand Damana and plush, cotton towels with big fluffy robes and slippers for that ultimate ‘hotel’ feel. Rooms have essence diffusers and a kettle with a selection of herbal infusions along with a pitcher of water and some fruit.

    Alamos Retreat is all about wellbeing, and that’s highly evident in the breakfast lounge, where guests are treated to a buffet of healthy and biological, homemade gluten-free pancakes, muffins, fruits, local cheeses — including lactose-free choices — freshly made juices and the best eggs around. The menu is mostly vegetarian, with gluten-free and vegan options aplenty. However, carnivores will not be made to feel uncomfortable at all and will leave feeling none the wiser that the retreat is predominantly vegetarian. Breakfast is a very leisurely affair, and they don’t adhere to a strict timetable, which is refreshing. Guests come and go throughout the morning, and nothing is too much trouble for the staff.

    Being adults-only was a welcome change, and as the guests are all there for the same reason, it is tranquil and very chilled out. In the central area of the retreat, you’ll find a refreshing kidney-shaped pool, rattan loungers and shade to enjoy lazy afternoons. Morning yoga is a part of the experience at Alamos, and after a perfect night’s sleep, there’s no better way to start the day than a gentle and invigorating yoga session, which is included as a part of the Bed & Breakfast package. By the pool, there’s something very unusual — an anti-gravity, aerial yoga pavilion. At first, you might feel intimidated by the sight of these silky hammocks hanging from the pergola structure and there is a lot of giggling to begin with, but once everyone finds their balance and realises that the fabric can hold somewhat substantial weigh, participants get into the swing of it, and it is actually highly enjoyable and rewarding. More mainstream yoga, meditation and Pilates are also available, depending on the day but guests can check the schedule on the website or on social media.

    The retreat also offers an antioxidant reading that measures your antioxidant level. This gives you an insight into your lifestyle: It shows if you are healthy, if your consumption of fruits and vegetables is enough, if you are too stressed and, most importantly, if you are protected against diseases. “At Alamos Retreat, everything was designed so that our clients can recover their full health potential,” says Lourenço. Having dedicated most of his adult life to the hospitality industry, we were keen to find out the drive behind this new project and discovered that Lourenço is certified in Holistic Nutrition by the Institute of Traditional Medicine and holds detox seminars throughout the year at local hotels. He is passionate about wellness, cancer prevention, fitness, weight-loss hospitality and luxury lifestyle.

    Wife Luisa loves baking the fabulous, sugar-free cakes that are on offer at the lounge and enjoys bibliotherapy, art and handicrafts. She has made many of the things that you can see at the property, such as the macramé, and has been instrumental in the interior design of the property. Son Guilherme is the young apprentice and is learning the ropes as he goes along. He’s a natural, so it looks like this is the perfect project for the family to work together and build something sustainable and meaningful for the future.

    The beds are intended to be “one of the most comfortable in the region”, as the linen is 100% cotton. Guests can also choose from three types of pillows (standard, memory foam with essences and feathers). Lourenço’s extensive hotel experience is very apparent and the attention to detail is something else.

    www.algarvewellnessretreat.com

    Text Mia Wallace
    Photos Daniel Clarke
  • Family tradition

    Family tradition

    Herdade Barranco do Vale is reviving an old family tradition

    Dear Grandfather, the farm is still beautiful. The cork oaks you have planted are strong and healthy, the olive trees large and firm and the “medronhos” are simply divine. The old vineyard was carefully cultivated, and the planted area expanded. The grapes from which this wine was made have been carefully handled and selected, and the production carried out to the highest standards. The wine matured 20 months before bottling. With love, Ana Luísa.

    This text appears on the label of the wines of the Herdade do Barranco do Vale, in the Sítio dos Campilhos near São Bartolomeu de Messines — a small tribute to Ana Matias Chaves’ grandfather, Ramiro Graça Cabrita, who bought the farm in the late 1960s and planted the first vines.
    When Ana talks about her grandfather, her eyes shine. She proudly reports that he was far ahead of his time and a true entrepreneur. On the 100-hectare property with carob, almond, olive and medronho trees as well as cork oaks, he had four reservoirs built and even underground pipes laid for the irrigation of the entire estate. “We are extremely grateful to him for this today,” Ana says. The buildings, which used to serve as stables for the animals and the storage of agricultural produce, give an idea of the size of the property. The greatest tribute to Ana’s grandfather, however, is that she and her family continued his life’s work and created the wine Herdade Barranco do Vale.

    After Ramiro Cabrita died in the early 1990s, his daughter and her husband took over the estate. Although they lived in Lisbon, they always looked after the rights and took care of the harvests and have now entered the family business. Both Ana and her parents can always rely on the support of Fernando, who was hired by Ramiro as a young man and has been working on the estate for over 40 years.
    Ana’s time is split, and she has to commute regularly between Lisbon and the Algarve, yet she is happier than ever. She doesn’t miss her job in the marketing department of a large company in Lisbon. “I loved my work, but I love this estate and wine production even more,” she says with a smile as we walk through the vines surrounded by cork oaks. In addition to Negra Mole, the Algarve’s most traditional grape variety, which was planted by her grandfather in the 1960s, Aragonez, Castelão and, more recently, Alvarinho, Antão Vaz, Arinto, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier also thrive in the vineyard. Apart from the Rosé and four red wines, two genuine and two Cuvées, soon they also want to produce white wine. Ana is very proud of the Barranco do Vale Rosé made from Negra Mole: “Fresh, floral and fruity, not too sweet, not too dry, with a long, elegant finish,” she says.

    The alchemist in charge is the oenologist João do Ó, from Adega Única (Unique Winery) in Lagoa. Ana is enthusiastic about him and the wine cooperative. “It is indeed unique, and João do Ó seems to be able to read our minds. Although he presses the wines from different wineries, they are all different and are exactly what we want,” she says. Ana herself attended a course with Mário Andrade, a renowned oenologist in the region, and learned a little bit of everything: from working in the vineyards to tasting. “Even if the oenologist can apparently read my mind, I should at least have the knowledge to communicate with him,” she explains with a wink. She describes the characteristics of her wines and talks about the terroir, which in São Bartolomeu de Messines is very different from that of the coast.
    The weather this year has been excellent for the vines, and Ana told us that they are protected by the surrounding hills, which give them a sort of microclimate. In 2018, the vineyard produced 25,000 bottles and if all goes well, 2019 should provide 30,000 to 35,000. Year on year, the volume is steadily increasing, and with plans for expansion, it’s only a matter of time before Herdade Barranco do Vale becomes a well-known name in Algarve wine production.
    The vineyard also has wine tasting in various locations. From the old winery where Ana’s grandfather used to press his grapes, into the orchards between the vines and at their little wine lounge outside, under the shade of the large tree featured on the label. Visitors are invited to try five wines for €10 and the tasting sessions can be booked by appointment only.

    By prior arrangement, Ana will prepare a cheese and ham board to enjoy along with the wines, and we would recommend asking for this as the wines are gastronomic and open up really well with food.
    Ana is passionate about her wines and welcomes visitors to tell the story of her family’s journey. Her grandfather’s former house has been renovated into the family’s residence and the tasting room. Further plans include reviving a wine tourism facility, accommodation, a wine cellar and possibly her grandfather’s old medronho distillery. Tour operators are starting to get in touch to bring groups, and the prospect of catering for weddings and events up to 100 people is something that Ana is beginning to look into now. The family welcomes volunteers to experience being a part of the harvesting team.
    “It’s a project for a lifetime that my son and hopefully his children will continue to lead in the future,” says the Lisbon woman, whose roots, like those of her vines, are deep in the Algarve.

    Text: Anabela Gaspar & Mia Wallace
  • Five stars for Monte Santo

    Five stars for Monte Santo

    Europe’s Most Romantic Resort of 2018 has a fresh new look

    When Monte Santo Resort opened its doors in August 2008, there was a lot of curiosity about the all-suite development behind the gates. Sprawling over a vast eight hectares of manicured and now mature gardens, the salmon-coloured collection of 113 suites and luxury townhouses have set themselves into the landscape and look as if they’ve always been there. In early 2018, the resort’s restaurant and spa underwent some exciting new changes.
    The newly refurbished restaurant has been thoughtfully named Aroma, a word conveniently used in several languages with the same meaning, fitting for a resort with an international clientele. The à la carte menu has been put together by executive chef Miguel Lourenço and features a selection of emotive dishes that tell a story of his culinary journey and highlight his Alentejo roots and a big sprinkle of inspiration from the other key figures in the Monte Santo team, including a dish that was developed from a special codfish dish by the general manager’s mother. Then there’s Ms Goretti, who handpicks the herbs from the herb gardens spread throughout the grounds.

    Chef Miguel Lourenço has a selection of à la carte menus that change twice annually along with some special wine pairing options. You can even opt for a romantic dinner by the love bridge in the centre of the main lagoon area of the central pool, or if you’re staying at the resort, he will personally provide private catering in the suites. Chef Miguel told us that he has been at the resort from since early 2018 and aims to use “local influences and ingredients to create dishes that guests will find interesting and ultimately, delicious”.
    Aroma has been decorated in a light, yet warm colour scheme and features a large glass terrace that overlooks the beautiful main pool area. It’s a great venue for outside guests and is suitable for couples, families or groups of friends alike.
    In addition to the new restaurant, Monte Santo Resort also added a stand-alone spa called Alma, in July. The new spa is located next to the sauna and indoor pool area, which is perfect for those looking to enjoy a thoroughly relaxing morning or afternoon. The décor is calming, soothing and elegant. They have a great variety of Thalgo skin-care products that are inspired by the ancient practices of using marine and natural elements and extracting their therapeutic benefits.

    The spa menu has all the usual massages, nail treatments, cosmetic, therapeutic and holist treatments along with excellent little touches like the hot-water pillows used in the 90-minute Spirit of Polynesia ritual that will leave you feeling relaxed, pampered, soft and overall very zen. The space is small and therefore each spa visitor gets the full attention of the therapist, making it a memorable experience.
    As for accommodation, the suites are all fitted out with a fully equipped kitchen, full-sized lounge, bathrooms and bedrooms with either a private balcony or a large terrace, depending on the location. You’ll find an ample supply of Rituals toiletries in the bathroom and some charming, romantic gestures on arrival.
    Monte Santo was named Europe’s Most Romantic Resort for the fourth consecutive year at the 2018 World Travel Awards, and although it is a family resort, they do go out of their way to make sure that special occasions are given extra attention. The new management took over earlier in 2018 and have been pushing full steam ahead with programmes to attract and please old and new guests alike. Chef Miguel is always working on new menus and theme nights to keep Aroma working all year.

    You will be surprised by the prices, and outside guests are welcome, so you could easily add it to your Carvoeiro restaurant list. The facilities are primarily for the residents of the resort although they are putting together some great packages for winter, where anyone can use the spa and enjoy a healthy meal. Events like their wonderful New Year’s Eve parties are quite spectacular with a fully catered, themed party including fireworks, live acts, a DJ set and buffet. This year’s theme is the mystical Alice in Wonderland. Be prepared for some special guests and magical memories.
    The resort is just outside Carvoeiro, and also has a lounge bar that offers a selection of 30 original cocktails. With the glazed terrace, it’s a fantastic spot to enjoy a meal during the winter months when you’ll have a five-star experience without breaking the bank.

    www.montesantoalgarve.com

    Text Mia Wallace

  • PEDALS & PADDLES

    PEDALS & PADDLES

    ON LAND AND BY SEA, ONE NEW VENTURE IS SHOWING THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS

    Whether it’s the heart of the Portuguese countryside or the rugged cliffs that line the coast, the Algarve has a wealth of charms beyond the traditional tourist spots that are just waiting to be discovered. Now, two companies have joined their two different modes of transportation to share the very best of both worlds, with the launch of the unique Pedals and Paddles this spring.

    With a large fleet of bicycles for hire, including mountain bikes, city bikes and road bikes, Colin Worswick joined forces with Ricardo Carrasquinho of Ferragudo-based Algarve Freedom Kayaks to create a unique tour concept that combines all the perks of a bicycle ride with the charms of a kayak trip.

    “You’ll be riding along the cliff, looking down and wishing you were in the sea, and 10 minutes later you’re going to be on that beach that you saw from the cliff-top, cooling down in the clear turquoise waters of the Algarve.” This is how Colin, a lover of outdoor sports, sums up the concept, which was conceived to “give people the possibility to see how beautiful this place is, without being rushed around all over the place”. Having worked in various fields in his native England, Colin moved to the Algarve 12 years ago and opened a restaurant in Albufeira before realising its seasonal limitations. After investing in a bicycle hire company based in Armação de Pêra and spotting a gap in the market when it came to more personal tours in the Algarve, he approached his friend and fellow business-owner Ricardo, a marine biologist who set up his kayak company on Praia Grande beach last year, to create this original product.

    Launched in April, the new venture comprises two very different tours: a downhill tour from Fóia, the highest point in the Algarve, and a more relaxed Carvoeiro/Ferragudo circuit. The first, a more demanding full-day tour designed for more energetic clients, sees a group of at least four people cycle down from Fóia, in Monchique, to the Arade river with its manypontoons, covering around 25km in just over two hours. They will then embark on the kayaks, either after taking a water taxi to the mouth of the estuary in Ferragudo, or paddling to Sítio das Fontes in Estombar where they will have lunch.

    The second tour, a half-day circuit, is a great day out that’s perfect for all the family. With plans to set off from Carvoeiro, the group (a minimum of two people) will cycle along the cliffs – avoiding roads – to Ferragudo, where, from Praia Grande, they will kayak back and stop halfway at a desert beach where lunch will be provided and where they can snorkel, swim or just sunbathe. With eight kayaks available in their distinctive blue (six doubles and two singles), Algarve-born Ricardo, who admits he feels most at home by the sea, will explain about the various rock formations and their native species along the way.

    Combining both their areas of expertise, Colin explains: “I went with him on the kayaks and he has come out with me on the bikes, and between us we’ve worked out what we think is the perfect route.” With a transfer service available, all clients are fully insured, with the organisers adding that spectators can join the tour, either in the minivan or on the boat that accompanies the kayaks. “It’s a great idea,” notes Ricardo, whose kayak tours have become extremely sought after since the company was established last year. “They are two eco-friendly sports and it’s
    great to promote the future of sustainable tourism.”

    With a relaxed approach to the tours and taking it upon themselves to provide something different for people to do, Colin notes: “One of the great things about the Algarve is that as soon as you cross the Algarve corridor, just 2km from the sea, you’re in completely rural, unspoilt countryside. We’re offering people a peaceful day, physical as it may be.” Currently in its early days, Pedals and Pedals will provide tours until the middle or end of October, depending on weather conditions. www.pedalsandpaddles.co

  • SPRING RENEWAL

    SPRING RENEWAL

    WITH THE ARRIVAL OF THE NEW SEASON, THERE WAS MORE THAN JUST A LITTLE SPRING CLEANING GOING ON AROUND CARVOEIRO

    They say that spring is a time of renewal, and no one took that more literally than the good people of Carvoeiro, as up and down the town, established businesses got complete face-lifts and new ones opened their doors. From new supermarkets and shops to totally revamped restaurants, and even a brand new boardwalk that runs along the cliffs near the church, this spring was certainly a time of rejuvenation, adding a muchwelcomed new sheen to the area.

    One of the longest-established restaurants in Carvoeiro, O Pátio has seen various changes since it was taken over by restaurateur Jan Zegers more than 30 years ago, but none as dramatic as the make-over it received earlier this year. Unveiled when it reopened in March, the restaurant’s new look saw a departure from its trademark antique look, with its original red tiles and dark wood, and welcomed a fresher, brighter décor. Maintaining the original charm of the 200- year-old building, shades of cream and grey/blue add a lighter elegance to the interior, alongside the brand new floor in slate grey. With extra seating added to what was previously only a service area, the restaurant’s quirkiest features have been maintained but stripped of the Bondex layers so that they shine in all their glory, including the large wooden port wine barrel which serves as a cosy alcove accommodating a table, and the restaurant’s wine cellar, located at the bottom of an ancient well, where the wine is placed in a bucket and pulled up by a traditional rope.

    Inspired by his travels, Jan Zegers, who also owns Piu, Martin’s Grill and Jan, all on the square, explains the reasons behind the change: “The restaurant before was too heavy, too dark. Less and less people were coming inside; now it’s more pleasant, more welcoming.”

    But the changes don’t stop at the décor; even the menu has had a revamp, with fewer options but which stay true to O Pátio’s commitment to high-quality cuisine, alongside a lunch menu offering lighter meals and a dish of the day.

    Another Carvoeiro favourite which this year gained a new, brighter look is Ele & Ela, a cosy bistro-style restaurant on Rua do Barranco (‘out’ road). With a darker décor in its previous life, chef patron Harald Kruizinga has opened up this small eatery by bringing in cream sofas and incorporating blond wood into the interior. Along with the lighter colour scheme, new lighting, tables and chairs give a more spacious feel to the restaurant, with storage areas cleverly concealed by custom- designed wooden units and a large mirror running the length of the restaurant. Changes were also made to the bar and the covered exterior (with the steel bars removed from outside to make it more inviting), but perhaps the biggest transformation was the WC area, which now looks bigger and more stylish. “Even our old regulars are happy,” says Harald. “It’s brighter, fresher, and the sofas allow us to cater for big groups.” Opened in March on Rua do Barranco, Tony’s is one of the latest additions to Carvoeiro’s food scene. The new venture of António Laginha (ex-Galé and Poço Partido restaurant), the snack bar serves hamburgers (100g and 200g), alongside baguettes, jacket potatoes and full English breakfast, alongside a range of other snacks and cakes.

    With an emphasis on white with splashes of purple here and there, the bright and airy space was designed by architect Nolasco Raposo based next door, who has created a blend of snack bar and modern diner. Seating around 50 people, it also has a large outdoor terrace and four televisions to show sports throughout the year. Open from 8am to 9pm Sunday to Friday, the eatery will be open every day until 12am during the summer. “We’re also hoping it will bring people down this way and help other businesses around here that are further away from the square,” adds António, who is joined by his wife Ana Paula in the kitchen.

    One of the most talked-about metamorphoses, however, is what was formerly the Black Stove on Estrada do Farol. Previously an Irish bar standing in relatively bare surroundings, two entrepreneurs have joined forces to transform the space with a unique concept which they have called The Wolf Bar & Grill. Totally refurbished and with a stunning garden area designed by local landscaping company

  • TIME FOR CULTURE

    TIME FOR CULTURE

    THE TEMPO THEATRE IN PORTIMÃO PROVES THERE IS PLENTY OF CULTURE IN THE ALGARVE

    Here at Inside, we were surprised at the amount of people who hadn’t heard of TEMPO, and those who had still weren’t quite sure where or what it was. It is, in fact, one of the best cultural offerings in the region, housed in a beautiful 18th-century landmark in Portimão.

    TEMPO, or the Teatro Municipal de Portimão, opened in December 2008 as a cultural venue of excellence, staging a remarkable series of compelling music, theatre and dance programmes that have helped put the Algarve’s second city on the cultural map.

    Housed in the former Sárrea Palace, opposite Largo 1 Dezembro near the riverside, it once served as the city’s law court. Today, however, it is a hot spot for the performing arts, with a programme that presents everything from plays, music and dance to film cycles, exhibitions, conferences and debates. “Above all, it is the city’s theatre, which works for the local community by playing an important role in boosting the city centre,” states Susana Martinho Lopes, production director at TEMPO.

    Unfortunately, the recession has had a huge impact not only on local trade but also on cultural activities, and so, in the past few years, the theatre has had to reinvent its programme models which, at the moment, are almost exclusively made through partnerships where the profits are shared with the promoters and artists. “There has been a decrease in our audience who, for economic reasons, are pickier than ever when it comes to shows. Unfortunately, the less commercial shows are the ones that suffer the most,” explains Susana, who notes the much-needed support the theatre receives from various businesses and institutions, such as the Portimão Tourism Association and the Portimão Junta de Freguesia.

    And so, thanks to the commitment and creativity of those behind the municipal theatre, today’s programmes are more diverse than ever, supporting more local artists and thus “proving that the theatre is a house of culture that is for everyone”, adds the production director.

    Of course it helps that the building has an envious range of spaces, each with very distinctive features. The Grande Auditório, with a capacity for 440 people and featuring modern technical equipment, is the main venue for more complex performances, whilst the 165-capacity Pequeno Auditório is suited to conferences, talks and film screenings. Black Box is the smallest of the spaces, a more intimate room that allows greater proximity between the artists and the audience and where most of the educational shows and activities take place (the theatre’s Oficina do Espectador). The more informal Café Concerto is currently where the exhibitions take place and is a great little meeting point for a coffee, whilst the former exhibition room has become the Tourist Office. On the third floor is a rehearsal room for dance and theatre workshops, and this summer, the theatre opened its wonderful rooftop terrace, with unparalleled views over the river, for the unique After Work Sunset Sessions.

    As well as its multiplicity of spaces and its central location at the top of Rua Direita, the theatre’s investment in high-quality lighting and sound equipment and a competent specialist team is essential. “Having a team responsible for the programme, production and technical maintenance represents a financial strain but it is vital for the space to have its own identity and keep running, to make this project socially viable.” Aiming to promote the arts to the wider community since its inception, the theatre’s programme is incredibly rich, comprising various genres and styles that they hope will appeal to people of all ages, backgrounds and nationalities. Having recently welcomed various photographic exhibitions from local artists, film screenings from international directors and classical music concerts, the programme over the Christmas season includes a performance of Swan Lake by the Russian Classical Ballet, a concert from famous Portuguese singer David Fonseca and a Christmas Concert performed by the Portimão Philharmonic Society. Amongst the big names to have graced the stage at TEMPO, including the likes of American jazz singers Dianne Reeves and, more recently, Stacey Kent, a particularly memorable event was the Invisible Cities Festival – Bridges of Istanbul. “In particular, the performance called Dervish by Turkish choreographer Ziya Azazy was one of the biggest successes in the history of TEMPO, with the Grande Auditório full and huge applause from a moved audience,” notes Susana.

    Alongside the shows, the theatre also offers different initiatives, such as Valentine’s Day events, the After Work gatherings on Wednesday evenings and various corporate events, alongside a special educational service and its ongoing work with schools, families and senior citizens.

    “Our ideal is to make people understand that culture is essential not only as a response to the recession, but above all to build our identity, our ability to question and reflect. We exist to contribute to the construction of better citizenship,” concludes the production director. “We have to keep the theatre alive.” To consult the programme, please visit www.teatromunicipaldeportimao.pt or find TEMPO on Facebook. Tel: 282 402 470

     

     

  • RETAIL THERAPY

    RETAIL THERAPY

    FORGET SHOPPING CENTRES: CARVOEIRO AND FERRAGUDO HAVE EVERYTHING FOR THE MOST DEMANDING CUSTOMER

    The former fishing village of Carvoeiro has become synonymous with dining out, but look beyond the numerous restaurants and you’ll find that the town is also home to plenty of shops selling everything from clothes and accessories to souvenirs and items for the home and garden. Inside went window-shopping to see what the local traders have to offer and found a few gems amongst the mix.

    On the main road of Estrada do Farol, there are a number of shops selling lovely clothes, shoes and accessories, but for those looking for quality swimwear and accessories, Maracanã is a one-stop-shop for all your holiday needs. With brands like Ipanema, Billabong, Quiksilver and Rip Curl, there are clothes, swimsuits, footwear and snorkelling gear for men, women and children. Aladdins Gifts and Bacana (across the road) also offer items that you won’t find elsewhere, with pretty womenswear and accessories for any occasion. Along this road, there are plenty of shops selling a variety of gifts and souvenirs, but stores like Dacora – with quirky, oneof- a-kind pieces – near the square, and Basic Décor, further down Rua do Barranco, are filled with unique and colourful items that are perfect for the home. The open-air Praça Velha (with access from both Rua dos Pescadores and Rua do Barranco) has quite literally everything you can imagine, from handicrafts to décor items, whilst O Painel, on the right handside as you leave Carvoeiro, has beautiful handmade pottery made on-site by local artisan João Guerreiro.

    Recently, though, there has been a surge in quality clothing, with three new boutiques in particular ahead of the fashion pack and raising the retail bar in Carvoeiro. L’Atelier certainly stands out on Rua do Barranco, with its enormous heart on the façade, but the surprises continue inside, with hand-picked Portuguese, French and Italian designer labels for women and children displayed amongst the elegant, quirky interior. A few doors down is Le Macho, which belongs to the same owners and offers the same imaginative décor, with a focus on quality menswear and accessories, particularly from the Italian brand Antony Morato. But the latest sartorial addition is Kube Boutique. Opened in June near to the post office, this bright and elegant store sells exclusive pieces from Portuguese and Italian brands, with owner Lina providing personalised service and advice to her customers. Selling one-off womenswear, including shoes and accessories, you certainly won’t be caught wearing the same outfit as anyone else!

    On the jewellery front, Mariana Cabrita (Estrada do Farol) offers a great selection of quality watches and jewellery pieces, whilst Lolita on Rua do Barranco, established almost 15 years ago, has made its name for its custom fashion jewellery. Next door, however, is Imagine, a striking, glass-panelled jewellery shop which also designs its own pieces in gold, silver, and natural stones. With a more design-led approach to its creations, all carefully crafted and extremely versatile, the brand has two more shops in Portimão and Lagos, as well as a production centre in Alvor.

    Golfers will be in their element at the Carvoeiro Golf Shop at the top of Rua dos Pescadores, which provides everything a golfer could need, including clubs and balls (to buy or hire), clothing and various services, as well as discount bookings at any Algarve golf course. Down the road is the fisherman’s equivalent: Pesca & Bichos, which provides all fishing equipment and advice on fishing in the area.

    Of course it’s not just Carvoeiro that provides a bit of retail therapy. Lagoa also has an array of traditional stores and boutiques, but if it’s quirky you’re looking for, then Ferragudo is the place to go. Déjà Vu on Rua 25 de Abril, just by the square, offers an eclectic mix of art, antiques, clothes, jewellery and other appealing items, whilst across the road, next to Banif Bank, another shop also adds something very different to the usual shopping scene. A breath of fresh air, Fantasia is a bright little shop that opened in March and sells imaginative gifts, games, toys and decorative items for the home and outdoors. The pieces are pretty and unique, making it a must-visit for those who want to inject character and humour into their home.

  • TOUR DE ALGARVE

    TOUR DE ALGARVE

    INSIDE DITCHED THE CAR AND DISCOVERED THE AREA IN THREE VERY DIFFERENT WAYS

    The team at Inside is constantly encouraging its readers to discover the region and all it has to offer. True to form, we decided to do just that, but this time we snubbed the more traditional means of transportation and hopped on three very different kinds of vehicles: a retro Vespa, a high-powered buggy and an ecofriendly tuk tuk. Here, we reveal a very different side of the area from a brand new perspective.

    Sitting in Carvoeiro, we waited for our specially requested Vespas to be delivered, with images of Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in the 1953 film Roman Holiday floating around in our head. They didn’t disappoint: bright and shiny, this is retro-cool at its finest, and the best way to zip around Carvoeiro with admiring glances at every turn. It’s an investment that certainly paid off for Ralf and Ilenia, who founded the Vespa rental business Grasp a Wasp in Praia da Rocha in March 2012.

    Alongside the great weather, Ralf explains why they chose the Algarve for such a business: “[A Vespa] offers much more than a car. You have ample view so you see everything, you’re air-conditioned naturally, you can sit on it in a wet swimsuit, and it boasts a luggage carrier where you can put towels, a bag, a picnic, or even a surf rack. They’re just ideal vehicles.” With nine Vespas to choose from (three are automatic), in a range of funky colours and boasting bright helmets with integrated sun visors and iPhone chargers, our pretty multicoloured number brought to mind images of picnics, romance and sunny days.

    Those who are already familiar with riding Vespas or scooters in general will be in their element, although Ralf says it’s easy to learn how to control the gears. For everyone else, the automatics are the perfect choice. Leaving Carvoeiro, we headed towards Silves to discover the side-streets of the Medieval city without having to negotiate all the steep hills on foot. This is the perfect place to park up, visit the castle and maybe enjoy a light lunch.

    After all, we were going to need it as we made our way into the Silves countryside for a very different driving experience indeed: the adrenaline-filled Bulldog Buggies. Set up last year by former car dealer Dan Savage, just east of Silves, this is the perfect way to venture out into the hills with a bit of excitement added to the mix. “It’s a scenic tour with a bit of fun,” says Dan, whose six buggies provide an experience that has earned excellent reviews on Tripadvisor.

    Suitable for all ages, the usual circuit lasts around two hours and takes visitors on a trip they’re not likely to forget any time soon. “People are surprised to see this countryside is here; many visitors think the Algarve is just sand and sea.” To emphasise his point, Dan includes three stops in the circuit that epitomise the beauty of the area, including the Arade dam and what is perhaps the highest point around, with stunning views of the mountains on one side and the ocean on the other.

    Most of the tour is off-road, with great terrain and spectacular scenery, although it is highly recommended to dress for the occasion, as the state of our clothes testified at the end of the tour (goggles and masks are provided). Dusty in summer, the best time to hop in these two-seater buggies is winter, “when the rivers are full and the grass is green”, or in March and April when the flowers are out.

    After splashing through water at the end of the tour and looking decidedly dirty, it was time to clean up and get back on our Vespas to drop them off at Praia da Rocha, but not before stopping off at Portimão Marina for a well-deserved, freshly squeezed orange juice and dipping a toe in the sea. Vespas begrudgingly returned (it’s no wonder that people prefer to rent them out for days at a time), we thought we had earned a bit of a rest, and what better way to be driven around than by tuk tuk, a little piece of Asia brought to the Algarve by local company Allgav-TukTuk.

    The brainchild of Vasco and Filipa Chaveca, the idea is to provide trips right to the heart of Algarvean towns and showcase their rich history and traditions from an insider’s point of view. Not only that, the vehicles are 100% electric and perfect for our narrow cobbled streets. Working in partnership with local hotels – “We are not selling a mass product, that is why we’ve decided to work with quality hotels,” says Vasco – the company provides one-hour circuits as well as private hire to get from A to B in a very unique, eco-friendly way.

    With a capacity for six people, the big advantage of these little tuk tuks is that they can go where other companies can’t, in complete silence. And that’s how we made our way through the fishing town of Ferragudo and back to Carvoeiro: tired, a bit dirty, and completely silent as we enjoyed the very best of this piece of paradise.

    www.graspawasp.com
    www.bulldogbuggies.com
    www.allgav-tuktuk.pt

  • SEVEN HANGING VALLEYS

    SEVEN HANGING VALLEYS

    TREAD THE ALGARVE’S CLIFFTOPS WITH THIS LOVELY MARKED TRAIL

    Formed over millions of years, the cliffs along the coast dominate the Algarve’s landscape, with caves, grottoes, secluded bays and blowholes providing some of the most spectacular scenery around. To make the most of this rich natural heritage, Lagoa Council created the Seven Hanging Valleys walk, a signposted trail high above the beaches that follows the coastline all the way from Centeanes to Marinha/Albandeira beach.

    Inaugurated in 2010, the route extends along 5.7km of coastline, and takes around six hours to complete there and back. Of medium difficulty, it’s ideal for avid walkers, and autumn is one of the best times to make the most of it. If, like us, you prefer to do it in stages or walk just part of the way, there are three clear sections that each afford unique and equally wonderful viewpoints.

    Before you set off, be sure to wear sturdy trainers (and a hat if the sun is out), take water, a walking stick if necessary – there are some pretty steep bits on the walk – and of course a camera! The route is best avoided after heavy rainfall and on windier days, and beware of large waves in the winter at the points of lower altitude. Other than that, it’s a wonderful walk, as Inside discovered.

    Setting off from Centeanes and taking the steps up past Colina Sol hotel (you will understand why there are benches at the top), the path is guided by two parallel red and yellow lines, painted on wooden markers or on rocks. If they cross, you’re going the wrong way, whilst the red line warns of any change in direction. Following the lines and the wooden barriers placed for safety reasons (this is the highest part of the walk at 45.50m above sea level), we walked east until we reached a pretty seating area on the cliffside which looks down to the sea.

    After walking along a narrow pathway, in the distance you can see the Alfanzina lighthouse, a highlight of this section of the walk. This is a wonderfully green bit of the clifftops, but with the lovely views comes a more precarious section as you cross the valley. Fortunately, a wooden structure more akin to a bus stop provides a bit of respite a bit further on, and a few metres ahead lies Carvalho beach, a bit of a local secret that was once used by smugglers. Follow the steps down and over the hill, the shapes of the fishing village of Benagil will begin to emerge.

    The trail takes you down to the beach, the lowest point of the walk and the perfect excuse to stop off at the café and watch the local fishermen as they go about their daily routine. The second part of the walk begins from the small steps to the left of O Algar restaurant, at the top of the hill that winds to the right. Starting off flat and overlooking the beach and the fishing boats bobbing below, the trail continues until walkers reach the top of the famous Algar de Benagil, a grotto only reachable by boat that’s one of the most iconic images of this area’s coastline.

    This stretch of the trail is flanked by woodlands, home to various herbs – as indicated by one of the many information boards that detail the rock formations, fauna and flora found in the area, and emergency contact numbers. Then comes a more difficult bit but well worth the exertion: down into the valley, you cross over a little bridge amongst the cliffs dotted with sink holes. With the sound of the waves beneath your feet and the ever-present cicadas, this section is particularly pretty in the spring, when the orchids and lilies add colour to the surroundings. A scramble up the other side is rewarded with amazing views from the specially made Miradouro Beauty Spot, with the rocks here taking on a very different appearance. And this is when we reach one of the most beautiful beaches in Portugal: Marinha.

    This third and final section of the walk is in fact not signposted, but promises one of the most beautiful stretches of the whole trail. Walking down among the pines and natural vegetation, shaded steps bypass the beach and afford pictureperfect views, with small fishing boats providing visits to the caves often zipping in and out of the grottoes. Walkers will come across more natural pits – the safety barriers are there for a reason –, fossils embedded in the rocks and little secluded beaches, one of which can only be reached by foot. An imposing arch formed by years of erosion marks the end of the road, as walkers reach Albandeira, a rocky beach with a small restaurant and its own picnic area. Happy walking.

     

  • BRICK BY BRICK

    BRICK BY BRICK

    DEVELOPERS ARE LOOKING TO CARVOEIRO AS BRAND NEW PROJECTS BEGIN TO TAKE SHAPE

    Earlier this year, estate agents across the region were reporting surprisingly promising signs on the property market, with more enquiries and property viewings than anyone had expected. But is this a sign of things to come? Maybe, maybe not, but in Carvoeiro, it’s certainly true that new projects have begun to crop up, with the foundations now being laid for tourist apartments, resorts and even futuristic luxury villas.

    One example is the land on the clifftop next to the Tivoli Carvoeiro hotel. Signs of movement began earlier this spring, with infrastructures already being put in – according to sources, the construction of a small tourist resort, comprising up to 30 townhouses, is due to begin in September. Further along the road across from Areias dos Moinhos is another tourist development in the initial stages of construction.

    Developed by Silves-based Prime Life Properties, the project will comprise two-storey tourist apartments that are due to be completed in early 2015. But perhaps more surprising is the project at the top of Estrada do Farol, an ambitious venture that comprises five villas on 2,000sqm-plots, called Palmar Villas. The brainchild of local property developer Toliloka Imobiliária, the idea was to create villas “for modern people with an exclusive lifestyle to live near the sea”, according to Antonius Verhoeven of the family-run company.

    For this, he joined forces with Thomas Van Mierlo of Waratah Properties in Almancil and architect Miguel Sintra Rebelo, who designed each four-bedroom villa with unique and exclusive aspects. “The style is minimalist and futuristic based on light, space, design, safety, luxury and hi-tech, fitting the demand of tomorrow and marking the difference between the existing and the new,” said the developer. With a complete finished villa costing just over a million euros, the whole project can also be sold as a whole or with the five building plots sold individually, upon consultation.

    And it seems it is this luxury market that’s worth focusing on, according to René Kalkbrenner, managing director and second generation of property management company Kalkbrenner, who, alongside local architect John Wilson and lawyer Marcos Mascarenhas, set up Panoramic Invest in June last year. By pooling each of their fields of expertise, the company locates and develops the most attractive properties on the Algarve’s coast, with an initial focus on the Carvoeiro area.

    With an ethos centred on providing the highest quality in the best locations, and covering everything from real estate, legal services, architecture, interior design, project management and property management, the company was founded to fill a gap in the luxury residential market and provide a construction project “from A to Z”: “People would rather have one person to deal with, to find them a piece of land, build them a house, and see them in 18 months with the keys. If they want a convertible in the driveway, we can get that, too. It’s an all-inclusive package,” said joint founder René, whose family has been in the property management business in Carvoeiro since 1980.

    With John leading the planning and project management side of things, and Marcos bringing his expertise in financial planning and property law to the table, the company has since been focusing on acquiring partnerships with established and reputable companies and speciality providers, such as luxury audiovisual experts Bang & Olufsen. In the belief that real estate is the best investment in the current market, with a number of great deals available to cash buyers who have the luxury of time, the founding partners have a growing portfolio of large plots with sea views and existing properties with huge potential.

    Advising those who buy plots to “build a good-quality, durable and cost-effective construction that 10 years down the line will be worth a lot more than it is now”, René also notes that older properties, such as the villas at Carvoeiro Club, are built on huge plots in excellent locations. “Space is an aspect of luxury that’s getting less available,” he explains. But the question is, why Carvoeiro? “Carvoeiro is relatively unique as far as the way it is constructed, with good building laws keeping a very low density of building. You also have a very stable climate, and people come here and just fall in love with the place,” believes René, adding that those purchasing a well-located seaside property, built to today’s standards of technology, will get their initial investment back in eight to ten years.

    www.toliloka.com | www.panoramicinvest.co.uk

  • WILDWATCH

    WILDWATCH

    INSIDE HOPPED ABOARD THE ECO EXPLORER TO GO DOLPHIN-SPOTTING WITH WILDWATCH, A COMPANY THAT DOES EXACTLY WHAT IT SAYS ON THE TIN

    From the moment Wildwatch’s boat, the Eco Explorer, leaves the Portimão Marina and heads out to sea, the excitement starts to build up onboard. The promise of interaction with dolphins, one of nature’s most intriguing creatures, resonates in the mind of both the passengers and the crew, leaving a feeling of anticipation that’s more akin to that of small children on Christmas Eve.

    The passion with which the crew members speak and instruct the passengers about the dolphins or the wonders of the sea shows that this is not their job, it’s their life. André Dias, owner and founder of Wildwatch and also a skipper on the trips, started fishing at the tender age of 14. His connection to the ocean led him to study Marine Biology at university, while still carrying out activities onboard boats and working at various scientific tourism companies in Lagos and Portimão.

    Having reached the end of his studies and wanting to pursue his passion, he successfully applied for the ProMar support programme to help him start his business, and since November of 2012, the owner has been working to make Wildwatch an innovative and more personal alternative to the competition.

    Throughout the course of the trips, which cost between €35 and €65, he and his crew provide information about the different dolphins’ habits and patterns, as well as the natural characteristics of the Algarve coast. An example of one of these natural hidden wonders is the underwater Portimão fault line, which serves as a haven for sea life and attracts numerous species to its depths with its vibrant habitat.

    Birds also play a part in the quest to find the dolphins. Most sea-birds are opportunists and take advantage of their flying abilities to swoop in on a dolphin’s hunt for fish and have a feast of their own. Therefore, they are sometimes used as “guides” to the location of the sea mammals. However, the sight of these birds may lead to some frustrating moments, when the hopes of a triumphant discovery are dashed by false alarms.

    Throughout the trip, passengers may be surprised by the relaxed and informal atmosphere instilled by the crew. “It is easier to get the passengers’ attention and teach them about these fascinating animals and the sea if they’re surrounded by a friendly environment,” said André Dias. Rolf van der Lans, skipper on the Eco Explorer, had worked for 10 years for several other boat trip companies before joining André’s venture. Still, he believes there is something that makes Wildwatch stand out from the crowd. “I was faced with a decision which forced me to choose between remaining at my job or following my heart. I followed my heart.”

    The genuine complicity and joy of the crew members puts on a show of its own and makes you feel at home, even when you’re nearly 30kms from the coast. Nevertheless, nothing can really compare to the excitement felt onboard when the first sign of a dolphin is sighted. The 12-seater boat abruptly changes its course and roars to the location, in the hope that the dolphins won’t be afraid of the vessel. Even more awe-inspiring is the fact that the dolphins welcome the visit. Almost racing the boat, the mammals accompany the Eco Explorer’s route at the same time as they show off their acrobatic skills. One could almost think these dolphins were trained to be entertainers, but it is just part of their natural playful personality.

    Hoping to take the perfect picture of the wondrous creatures is an unmatched thrill and definitely justifies bringing along a camera for the ride. After a while of interacting with the animals, it’s time to return to shore. The Wildwatch dolphin-watching centre in Ferragudo is the final destination, but first, a quick stop is made at the Portimão Marina to hop aboard their casual ferryboat and take a relaxed trip to the small town. “I chose Ferragudo because I have lived here from a very young age. It has an authentic atmosphere like no other place I know and its fishing traditions are still very much alive. It is my home,” said André as the ferry reached his town.

    At the centre, passengers can learn more about the trips they embarked on and the species they saw while being offered complimentary beverages and typical regional treats in the process. The crew also displays the videos captured on the journey, showing the underwater perspective of what was just experienced out in the deep blue sea, alongside an environmental instructional presentation. But there’s far more to Wildwatch than just dolphin watching. Although the company shines the spotlight on its dolphin watching, shark diving, coastal trips and bottom fishing are available, as are try dives and many other trips, making the company a versatile option for sea lovers.

    Also available is a ferryboat service, in partnership with the restaurant O Sueste, which connects the two banks of the Arade river from 9am to 11pm, or 2am if reservations are made beforehand (€3 for a one-way trip and €5 for a return trip). Clients of the restaurant and children up to 12 can use the service free of charge.

    Prices for activities start at €10. www.wildwatch.pt

  • CAMERA VS CANVAS

    CAMERA VS CANVAS

    DAVE AND ALYSON SHELDRAKE OF A3 ART DEPICT THE ALGARVE FROM TWO VERY DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVES

    Through the lens of a camera or painted in acrylic, the charm and unique light of the Algarve has been captured from two quite different yet utterly complementary perspectives. Photographer Dave Sheldrake and his wife, painter Alyson, were drawn to the region for those reasons exactly, and now, they showcase their work side by side, fulfilling something of a dream they have always harboured.

    Having discovered the pretty fishing town of Ferragudo through friends around 10 years ago and immediately falling in love with the place, Dave and Alyson bought a house here soon after in preparation for the plunge they were about to take: leave their demanding jobs in the UK – Dave was in the police force and Alyson was director of education for the Church of England – and embrace the simple life in the Algarve. And that is exactly what they did. Armed with paint brushes (Alyson) and a camera (Dave), the couple moved to their home near Ferragudo and are now happily doing what they most love – she in her sunfilled studio, he on the beaches and traditional streets of the Algarve.

    Deciding to avoid the traditional gallery route and run their own exhibition, mainly to avoid commissions and therefore keeping their prices low, the couple approached the Holiday Inn in Armação de Pêra to showcase their work. With a great response, they held their first A3 Art exhibition at the hotel in April last year, and since then it has become a regular event with a loyal following. In fact, the exhibitions have gone so well that this year also sees the couple showcase their work at Hotel Carvoeiro Sol. Entitled “New Beginnings”, their first art and photography exhibit and sale in Carvoeiro took place between March 29 and April 3, the first of a number of shows scheduled for this year.

    The popularity of their work needs no explanation. Alyson, a self-taught artist, has won over art lovers with her unique style, with most of her best-known work belonging to her self-titled ‘New Wave’ collection. “I always have a focal point, like a lighthouse, drawn out as technically as possible, and everything around it is a series of waves of colour, shape and texture. Once I know the main feature, the rest of it just falls into place,” explains Alyson, who, instead of painting on canvas, prepares her own boards to create the ideal texture for her acrylic paintings.

    Filled with the colours of the Algarve, her art is vibrant yet harmonious, which can also be seen in her latest work – the bold, bright flowers that have proven to be extremely popular. These are in fact the perfect example of how Alyson and Dave’s work goes hand in hand, as the artist was inspired by a close-up of a flower shot by her husband. “We do work together in a way,” says Dave, a police sergeant-turnedphotographer. “Alyson often paints from one of my photographs, or I might get sent out on a ‘mission’ to capture a specific tree or boat, or I might come back with something that will instantly inspire her.” And it’s not hard to see why Alyson would be inspired by his work.

    A beautiful sunset over the sea, a rickety door, a wrinkle-faced man… Dave’s photographs depict the Algarve at its best – and not without seawashed feet as a regular memento. His work also shows his fondness for photographing people, especially in ‘street photography’, where he simply asks strangers on the street if he can take their photograph. Speaking of the wonderful colours and light here, particularly during the so-called ‘golden hour’ around sunset, Dave notes: “I’ve seen some skies out here that will literally take your breath away, and actually trying to capture it is quite a challenge. How can you not be inspired?” It’s clearly a lifestyle that suits the pair, whose passion for their craft and optimistic approach to life is infectious. Also accepting commissions, Alyson admits she’s quite unique in that she doesn’t ask for payment up front until the client is happy with the finished result.

    This also applies to her Pet Portraits, which she will be demonstrating at the International Algarve Fair in Lagoa on June 1 and 2, as well as presenting a pet portrait for the Dog Show’s “Best in Show”. Their work can also now be appreciated through a collection of affordable costume jewellery designed by silversmith Something Xtra Special, which includes necklaces, pendants, key rings and cufflinks. Dave and Alyson may be at their happiest when they’re each doing what they love, but they also get great pleasure from seeing people liking their work and hearing the stories behind why they want to buy it. And if you’re lucky enough, you might even spot their ‘happy dance’ every time a piece sells.

  • OCEAN REVIVAL

    OCEAN REVIVAL

    INSIDE DISCOVERS THIS UNIQUE DIVING EXPERIENCE JUST OFF THE COAST OF PORTIMÃO

    Back in October, press from around the country gathered to witness the sinking of two disused warships almost five kilometres off the coast of Alvor. It may have taken little over two minutes to sink the Oliveira e Carmo corvette and later the Zambeze patrol ship, but it marked the beginning of a very unique project for divers everywhere: the Ocean Revival Project.

    Created under Musubmar – Association for the Promotion and Development of Subaquatic Tourism, the idea is the brainchild of Luís Sá Couto, owner of diving company Subnauta, who, in partnership with Portimão Câmara, wanted to create an underwater museum to attract divers from around the world.

    The first project of its kind, it took around five years to materialise, but with the support of the Portuguese Navy, who provided the ships in their “last mission at the service of Portugal”, divers have already been able to explore this unique underwater park.

    The idea is to create artificial reefs – or rather, the largest single artificial reef structure in the world – to increase the area’s biodiversity, and thus turn the western Algarve into an international diving destination, says Luís Sá Couto. “The park combines the natural desire to unravel the mysteries of the sea and lend sustainability and the ideal conditions for the proliferation of marine biodiversity. It’s also an unparalleled opportunity for the progress of scientific research in the marine biology field.”

    The project relies on the sinking of four warships – the remaining two, the frigate Hermenegildo Capelo and the Almeida Carvalho oceanographic vessel, are expected to be sunk on June 15 (if weather conditions allow) and mid-October, respectively – which measure between 45 to more than 100 metres in length and are located at a depth of between 16 and 30 metres. Prior to the sinking, the ships are cleaned and decontaminated, and all pieces that could compromise the safety of the divers are removed. In total, the project is said to have cost around €3million, paid for through funding and sponsorship.

    Suited to wreck diving and underwater digital photography, among other specialities, the project also incorporates a display at the Portimão Museum, where visitors can discover the history of the ships and their patrons and commanders. Additionally, part of the project is the donation of a hyperbaric chamber to be installed at the Barlavento Hospital in Portimão, not only to provide a quick and efficient response to potential diving emergencies, but also to serve the local community and the country as a whole.

    As for location, divers have always been drawn to the Algarve. It may not have the crystal clear waters of the Red Sea or the Maldives, but the rocky cliffs and natural pools of the coastline, as well as the various shipwrecks off the coast of Sagres, in the west, have remained staple attractions. Selected for its excellent infrastructures, including its many hotels, restaurants, stores and nightlife, alongside its long, sandy beach, attractive marina and countless activities, it is hoped that Praia da Rocha will appeal to both seasoned and aspiring divers, as well as non-diving family and friends. So far, it seems to have paid off. Following the sinking of the first two decommissioned ships, more than 1,000 dives have already been registered during the months of November, December and January. “People feel the enthusiasm and the feeling of ‘flying’ through the ship, reliving its history,” explains Luís Sá Couto. “They are unanimous in saying that it’s one of the best dives and the only one of its kind. By promoting it, it will undoubtedly attract thousands of divers to the Algarve.”

    Any trained diver can access the park, although organisers recommend diving with a centre, club or diving school certified by Ocean Revival. Diving operators are also encouraged to get the Ocean Revival certification, obtainable through a course organised by the Musubmar Association. For more information, visit www.oceanrevival.pt

  • A WILD APPETITE

    A WILD APPETITE

    FORAGING IN THE ALGARVE COUNTRYSIDE, INSIDE DISCOVERS A WEALTH OF DELICACIES FREE FOR THE PICKING

    Most people living here in the Algarve can forget that the countryside is steeped in the bounties of nature, and many venture little beyond the abundant wild thyme that grows on the cliff-tops near Carvoeiro. Our guide into the depths of the Portuguese countryside was to be Raoul Van Den Broucke, a Flemish foraging expert who spent 20 years of his life living here in the Algarve until he moved to England in 1995.

    Here, he was one of the first to discover the wealth of wild mushrooms that grow in the Monchique hills and his work was the catalyst for the small but flourishing business operated today by locals of the hills, who harvest and sell the chanterelles and pied de mouton (hedgehog fungus) mushrooms that end up on the menus of gourmet restaurants as far away as the UK. But as we were to discover, there is a great deal more to foraging in the Algarve than mushrooms.

    Our journey started surprisingly with a visit to Sítio das Fontes, a natural spring in the Arade river valley near Estombar that has been developed into a leisure area for tourists and the local community. Here, walking along paved pathways, Raoul showed us counsome of the edible plant species that grow locally such as sea spinach, wild asparagus and samphire. To harvest some of the latter, we drove through Silves and en-route to Monchique stopped at a great spot in the Odelouca river valley where this much-prized product, a favourite ingredient of chefs to serve with fish due to its natural saltiness, seemed to be the main form of vegetation. It grows freely all along the tidal riverbanks and is good for eating between February and May.

    Considering that it sells at around €40 per kilo, this was quite a find! We left the river valley with a small crop of samphire and headed up the hills towards Monchique where, on a gentle slope near the village of Casais, we were led to the very place where Raoul had harvested his mushrooms back in the 1980s.  We gathered a small basketful, learning along the way some of the basic principles of identifying what we could and could not eat: mushrooms with white gills tend to be poisonous, and don’t even think of eating a mushroom you are not totally sure about.

    It’s fairly easy to get to know one or two varieties and concentrate on collecting just those, but a simple mistake can be deadly, such as the lighter shaded, morerounded mushroom that’s similar to the chanterelle which is in fact poisonous. Our crop from an hour or so of foraging for the mushrooms was limited to a small basketful, but in a tiny backstreet in Monchique town is local mushroom king José Páscoa, who had crates of chanterelles and pied de mouton stacked in his warehouse ready for export.

    Heading back down the mountain, an area of countryside near Silves is a haven for wild asparagus. But picking it is in fact no easy task, as the one or two green shoots of asparagus that grow in each of the thorny bushes are well protected. The technique is to push the bush aside with a booted foot to expose the shoot and snap it at the point where the flesh becomes tender. Elsewhere, a stone wall was covered in what looked like weeds, from where Raoul picked perhaps one of the most unusual plants of the day.

    The tiny round leaves known as pennywort taste remarkably similar to mangetout pea pods and make a fabulous salad ingredient, as do the wild fennel ferns that can be found growing all over the Algarve. There are other bounties of nature, too, just ready for the ‘picking’.

    The freshwater crayfish, for instance, that thrive in Portugal’s lakes and rivers, are a delicious treat, but must first be left in clean water for a few days to purge them of the mud that taints their flavour. And while snails of course are another favourite of foragers everywhere, it’s curious that the snail’s tiny eggs are prized by some chefs as a rare and very expensive form of “white caviar”.

  • TOUCHDOWN

    TOUCHDOWN

    THE NEWLY FORMED ALGARVE PIRATES PREPARE FOR THE NEW SEASON

    In a country with a long football tradition, how easy would it be to form a team in a sport that many had only seen on American television? Well one man tried, and it seems that the answer is, quite easy.

    American Don Dixon, who was assistant coach for the Lisbon Crusaders and who helped form the Liga Portuguesa de Futebol Americano just three years ago, has now brought American football to the Algarve, and the move seems to have paid off.
    Originally called the Portimão Pirates when it was formed back in May, the team has now changed its name to the Algarve Pirates as men from across the region flocked to Portimão to try out the sport. Just a few months on and the team now boasts almost 50 players, with around 30 attending training at any one time. Having moved to Portimão to start the Algarve branch of VidaMais, a non-profit organisation that helps promote cultural, educational and philanthropic initiatives, Don felt that an American football team was just the thing missing from the area. A football player in
    junior high and high school, he set off to promote the idea and put a team together.

    It was one such promotional tool – an article in a local paper – that caught the eye of one particular person. “I was so excited when I saw the article. All I had ever done was coaching,” says fellow American Llew Gittens, who owns a home in the Algarve. Now the head coach, Llew has been playing since he was 10 and played through junior high, high school and in the army before coaching teams in Italy and the UK.

    Coaching alongside him is Don, Franz Adebahr, who played professionally in Germany for 15 years, Pedro Viana, who worked with Don during his time at the Crusaders and American football commentator for SportTV, and Michael Reeve, a well-known local businessman who was introduced to the team at the recent BLiP exhibition.

    With training taking place at the sports complex in Mexilhoeira Grande, just outside Portimão, the team comprises players aged between 15 and 48 who travel from as far as Olhão in the east and Lagos in the west. All from different backgrounds, most are Portuguese but there are a number of international players, and although some do have some experience in the game, the majority are complete novices. “I’m so impressed after just six months. These are my
    children and they’re doing brilliantly,” says Llew. Don agrees: “We never imagined to be able to play in this
    year’s league, but they’ve been training throughout the summer and there’s so much passion already.”

    With the fourth season of the national league beginning in January and with a record number of teams taking part, Don is hoping to schedule some friendlies against teams from Portugal and even Spain. “We want to promote not only the team but also the sport and the league,” he adds. Training takes place three times a week: Monday evenings for technical and tactical training, Thursday evenings to put it into practice (both from 7.30pm to 9.30pm), and Saturday mornings between 9.30am and 12pm for drills and game play.

    The search for players (particularly those who are strong and/or fast, or with experience in rugby) is ongoing,
    as is the search for partners and sponsors to help the development of the team. To learn more about the Algarve Pirates, please visit their Facebook page or contact Don on 960 387 408.