A tourist at home

– October 14, 2023 | Text Marie Patterson | Photos Charlotte Cockayne/Open Media Group

As the holiday season starts to come to an end and the heat of the summer begins to die down, I decide to kick start a quiet Sunday indulging in a sumptuous treat for the taste buds by heading to Monte Carvoeiro for brunch.

Already a renowned fine-dining restaurant, The Square by Raquel Marques has taken the concept of brunch to a whole new level.

This establishment, well known for its impeccable culinary creations, now offers an exceptionally well-priced brunch that will tantalise your senses.

We opt for Eggs Benedict and a Full English Breakfast to start and follow with sautéed prawns with mango pico de gallo and sweet chili and a couple of Mimosas which turn out to be a perfect start to the day, and extraordinarily good value.

The atmosphere is casual and relaxing, with easily available parking, and the surrounding area is generally quiet, which I find particularly appealing after the busy summer months.

In search of some sunshine and fresh air, I decide to embark on the adventure that is the trail of the Seven Suspended Valleys.

This scenic route runs from Praia de Vale Centeanes to Praia da Marinha, widely considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Europe.

The Algarve region is renowned for its stunning coastal landscapes, and the Seven Suspended Valleys hike is a jewel in its crown.

I strap on my walking shoes and set off along the well-maintained trails. Throughout the hike, each valley unveils a new perspective, rewarding my efforts with breath-taking views of the Atlantic Ocean. An array of hidden coves, beaches, and captivating rock formations showcase the raw beauty of the Algarve’s coastline.

Whether you are an experienced hiker or someone looking for a moderate yet invigorating trek, this clifftop walk promises an immersive experience that connects you with the natural wonders of the region. The trail can be walked in either direction and took me about three hours to complete.

Combining the pleasures of a lavish brunch with the exhilaration of conquering Seven Suspended Valleys created a day that will linger in my heart and my mind, reminding me just how beautiful the Algarve is and all it has to offer.

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A tourist at home

– July 9, 2023 | Text Marie Patterson, Photos Charlotte Cockayne/Open Media Group

Nothing screams “summer’s here” quite like a calming boat trip to the local caves, so on this particular Saturday I decide to head to the picturesque beach of Benagil for a tour with Taruga.

Tickets can be purchased online to avoid disappointment and at their ticket office located immediately in front of Benagil beach.

Trips run at a variety of different times and on most days of the week (weather permitting).

There are a multitude of options available, including a shorter “Express Trip” lasting just 30 minutes.

Kayak and SUP boards are also available to rent, all for reasonable prices.

The “Traditional” tour has a total duration of 75 minutes. The tour visits all the caves in the immediate vicinity, including the famous Algar de Benagil. This spectacular site is visited by between 10,000 to 15,000 people per day in high season!

The staff is friendly and relaxed but very keen to share their local maritime knowledge. There is free parking readily available very close by, but be sure to carry a large bottle of water and some sunscreen with you as the ocean breeze can make the sun and heat very deceiving.

I opted for the 10.30am tour so that we would be finished just before lunchtime. Then I head to one of the most iconic sites in Carvoeiro – Algar Seco, a 10-minute car journey away.

Nestled in the cliffs of Algar Seco is the gem that is A Boneca.

Open Monday to Saturday from 12pm to 10pm, this family-run restaurant has been operating in this stunning location since 1969, serving typical Portuguese cuisine which is mostly still charcoal-grilled and visible to passing guests and customers.

A heavy mix of fresh fish and seafood is combined with a few other classics such as chicken piri-piri, and served all day.

Cocktails and a rather large wine selection also make this a very appealing spot to stop for a refreshing drink.

Personally, I opt for the typical Portuguese amêijoas à Bulhão Pato (clams cooked in a light sauce of olive oil, white wine, garlic, coriander and lemon), followed by grilled golden bream.

The food is delicious and the ambiance is extremely relaxing combined with a beautiful view of the ocean.

After lunch, we spend the rest of the afternoon exploring Algar Seco itself, with its fascinating rock formations where the erosion by the sea has created many rock pools, caves and natural balconies.

Before finishing the day, the short walk along the boardwalks up to the little church of Carvoeiro is also not to be missed, giving stunning views of the ocean.

Perfect for a sunset walk before ending the day!

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The Michelin-starred restaurant celebrated its 10th anniversary with two unforgettable gastronomic evenings

– April 10, 2023

Ten of Portugal’s best chefs came together for a truly unforgettable set of dinners in celebration of the 10th anniversary of Carvoeiro’s Michelin-star restaurant Bon Bon.

Bon Bon chef José Lopes teamed up with a different team of prestigious chefs on each night.

Each chef presented one dish, with José Lopes also being in charge of dessert.

The first night featured Luís Brito from A Ver Tavira (one Michelin star); Gil Fernandes from Fortaleza do Guincho (one star) in Cascais; Diogo Pereira from Cascade Wellness & Lifestyle Resort in Lagos; and Óscar Geadas from G Pousada in Bragança (and a former host of Masterchef Portugal).

A mouth-watering and sumptuous menu was prepared for the opening dinner, with guests being served cuttlefish with fava beans and mint by chef Luís Brito, whilst Óscar Geadas left his mark on the evening with ‘Azedo de Vinhais’ (a typical smoked sausage from the north of Portugal) with lobster and rapini.

Diogo Pereira’s version of a ‘surf and turf’ included turbot and piglet with cilantro, whilst the star of Gil Fernandes’ dish was lamprey eel served with presunto and bread.

Resident chef José Lopes was not left out of the fun, having served beef tongue and truffle for his main dish and bebinca (an Indo-Portuguese layer cake) with yoghurt and spices for dessert.

Meanwhile, the line-up for the second night consisted of João Marreiros from Loki in Portimão; Leonel Pereira from Check-in Faro; Pedro Lemos from his self-titled restaurant (one star) in Porto; Alípio Branco from Casa Velha in Quinta do Lago; and David Jesus, formerly the resident chef at Belcanto (two stars) in Lisbon.

Guests were treated to a truly gourmet experience on the second evening. Leonel Pereira wowed gourmands with his version of mackerel and carabineiro shrimp cooked in magnesium, sea celery and blue micro algae.

Eel, cabbage and dashi was the winning combination presented by Pedro Lemos, whilst David Jesus served crayfish with cabeça de xara (a type of Portuguese terrine) and ervilha lágrima (a special type of peas) on a slice of toasted activated charcoal with crayfish stock.

João Marreiros’ contribution was forkbeard, veal pancetta and wild chard, Alípio Branco served bass with algae xerém (a type of corn porridge) with cockle sauce and ‘sand’ curry, and José Lopes unveiled a dish of wild boar, truffle and red wine before ending the experience with an Algarve orange torta (Swiss roll).

Bon Bon owner Nuno Diogo was delighted with the ’10 Years, 10 Chefs’ event, held in February, describing it as a huge success.

“Everyone left here very happy. I am delighted with the outcome,” he said, promising to continue bringing the country’s top chefs to Bon Bon for similar events. “I’ve been inviting guests to come cook here for 10 years, and we have more events with guest chefs planned for later this year,” Nuno Diogo added. So, watch this space!

TEXT MICHAEL BRUXO PHOTOS CHARLOTTE COCKAYNE/OPEN MEDIA GROUP

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Inside Magazine’s Publisher, Bruce Hawker reflects on over 40 Years of Living in Praia Do Carvoeiro

– April 7, 2022

My first memory of Carvoeiro is of arriving here at the age of seven with my parents, in the summer of 1974 for a family holiday, at a time when few foreign tourists visited the Algarve, considering that the country was only just emerging as a democracy after the bloodless “Carnation” revolution a few months before. Needless to say, my folks fell in love with the place, and by 1978 we were already living here with my dad still spending some time in the UK running his business.

I wonder these days how he managed to run his business from afar, without e-mail and Zoom or even a fax machine. I’ve seen so much change over the years, some for the better and some for the worst, but I have to say, mostly for the better.

From my teenage years, I have fond memories of what we used to call the “unfinished hotel”, the shell of what is now the Tivoli Carvoeiro where we used to get up to all sorts of mischief. And right next door to the hotel there was a small settlement of shanty buildings occupied by creative sorts from around the world; there were artists, artisans and musicians and I remember many nights enjoying jam sessions and generally getting up to more mischief.

If there is one thing that Carvoeiro had better back then than it does now, it had to be the nightlife. By the time I was in my midteens and sneaking into nightclubs, there was just the Sobe e Desce disco (now the Jailhouse bar) and O Bote on the beach, the latter at the time being a very swish little place. By the mid-80s, a further three nightclubs had opened and Carvoeiro had turned into something of a nightspot. Today, only O Bote on the beach still exists but no longer as a nightclub. In 1984, we threw an engagement party at the Scoobydoo disco. The old photo on this page shows my wife Zoie and me on the dance floor with my late father John up in the DJ box.

I met Zoie at the International School of the Algarve (now the Nobel International School), where we were both students and we went on to raise three kids here ourselves. As they were growing up, one of my memories from their teenage years is of drenched clothes scattered around the house from when they had come home in the early hours after the infamous foam parties at O Bote. But it was not all about partying, our kids got an excellent education from the International School and all of them went on to universities in the UK.

Over the years, I have seen Carvoeiro grow, but unlike many coastal resort towns, Carvoeiro has grown outwards rather than upwards. High-rise buildings have never been permitted and if we stand up by the church and look down over the village today, it still has most of the authentic charm that got my parents hooked all those years ago. We have built our lives here, as part of both the international and the local communities, myself working in the publishing business and my wife Zoie in property. We have travelled widely over the years and I feel proud to say that there is nowhere in the world we would rather live than Praia do Carvoeiro.

Text by Bruce Hawker

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From quintessential fishing village to flourishing resort town

Standing on the cliff top above Carvoeiro beach, it’s surprisingly difficult to pinpoint the changes that have taken place over the last three decades. The white houses that dot the hillsides still look the same – but there are more of them. The view of the beach below me has changed even less, except for the disappearance of the old fishing boats and the addition of the huge boulders to the east of the bay where part of the cliff collapsed – thankfully when the beach was empty – in 1995. The difference between Carvoeiro and most other coastal towns is that development has been outwards rather than upwards. There are no high rises and most of the development has been sympathetic to the landscape. While the population, both resident and tourist, has spiraled, the “village”, as it is affectionately known to most expats, has managed to retain a good deal of its aesthetic charm.

I moved to Carvoeiro at 11 years of age in 1978 with my parents joining the handful of villa owners from Britain, Holland, Germany and elsewhere who had all discovered their perfect unspoilt seaside village in the sun. Needless to say, change was fast to come and by the mid-80s Carvoeiro was riding the crest of the Algarve’s real estate boom. Fortunes were made and lost, property prices soared and Carvoeiro rapidly grew from a sleepy fishing village into a full-blown resort town.

Anyone who has known Carvoeiro since those early days cannot help but feel the occasional pang of nostalgia. But in some ways, the “village” of today is a better place to live and, not surprisingly, continues to exercise its charm over both tourists and prospective residents alike. One of the most positive aspects of today’s Carvoeiro is precisely the fact that there are more people around. Thirty or so years ago, the last days of September would see the village turn almost overnight into a ghost town for the autumn and winter months only coming back alive at Easter. These days, thanks to a permanent population of over 5,000 and the off-season tourists drawn by golf courses and other facilities, many establishments stay open year round. Another important improvement is in the basic infrastructure: roads have been surfaced, mains drains extended to outlying areas, there is a medical centre, decent supermarkets and a whole range of upgraded facilities in nearby Lagoa.

Carvoeiro has come a long way since it was “discovered” by the first visiting foreigners in the 1960s. The local Carvoeirenses can be proud that their village has moved forward with the times and taken growth in its stride without succumbing to the unsightly development that has blighted so many of southern Europe’s coastal resort towns.

While Carvoeiro has fallen victim to a few cases of tasteless development, namely the area immediately to the east of the town centre which is lined with bars, restaurants and apartment buildings, they are fortunately obscured from view when looking at Carvoeiro from its best vantage points – up on the cliff tops at either side of the bay.

Text & Photo: Patrick Stuart

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ALGAR SECO CLIFF JUMPERS ARE MAKING A BIG SPLASH

Cliff jumping may seem like a crazy new adrenaline activity, but it’s actually been around for a very long time. It was first documented in 1770, when Kahek- ili II, king of Maui, engaged in a practice called “lele kawa”, which in English means to leap into the ocean, feet first, without splashing.
The king’s warriors were challenged to participate, proving in the process that they were courageous and loyal to the king. The practice later developed into a competition, under King Kamehameha I, where jumpers were judged on their style and amount of splash upon entering the water.
As with most things, they evolve and take on their modern- day form, making them more accessible.
Young, local entrepreneur, Sebastien Kock, founded Algar Seco Cliff Jumpers in 2015.
“I’ve been cliff jumping at Algar Seco for years, and it’s something that is quite a tradition here in Carvoeiro. My passions are videography and adrenaline sports, so this was a fantastic outlet for me,” Sebastien explains.
Algar Seco Cliff Jumpers held its first event in the summer of 2015, attracting around 80 people. “The people who came were a really mixed bunch of many different nationalities, ages and fitness levels. Some people just do it for fun but there are quite a few who are fitter and more gymnastic; they take it much more seriously,” Sebastien reveals. The event incorporates two main stages. The first and lowest jumping
point is around a 10-metre drop into a depth of seven metres, while in the second, there is a jaw-dropping 30 metres of nothingness between the jumper and the sea below.
Algar Seco is a very popular area because of its cliff formations and the area is relatively safe for jumpers, without many underwater rocks, and the excellent bonus of “smugglers steps”, enabling the participants to climb back up into the cliffs with ease.
Jumping from this famous local landmark is nothing new and has been taking place for as long as people can remember. What is new is that Sebastien saw an opportunity
to unite likeminded people in a social gathering and create an official event.
Algar Seco Cliff Jumpers has been attracting commercial interest across the globe, from Indonesia to Poland. The people behind ‘Big Swings’, the cliff jumping app, have been in touch with a proposal, and most recently, Portuguese TV channel TVI.
The success of Red Bull Cliff Diving is something to bear in mind. Starting in 2009, it now has a highly respected world series, with a huge following and a stop in São Miguel, in the Azores. Sebastien is in discussions to bring the event to the Algarve, which will hopefully become an extreme sports destination in the near future.
One can only imagine why it’s becoming so popular. Voices of mothers, shouting: “If someone told you to jump off a cliff, would you?” spring to mind. Perhaps it’s because cliff jumping is probably the least complicated extreme sport, with no equipment, special clothing or provider services to pay for. It’s just your body, falling through the air from dizzying heights and plunging into a body of water below – “man against the sea”. The highest jump would be the equivalent to jumping off an eight-storey building.
The 2016 Algar Seco Cliff Jumping event is scheduled for August 7 and has attracted huge interest, both locally and internationally, with around 400 people expected to turn up on the day. The event is free of charge and open to everyone. You can keep up to date with events and progress via the Facebook page Algar Seco – cliff jumpers

TEXT MIA WALLACE

OPENED IN 2011 AND EXPANDED IN 2016, HOTEL DO CÃO IS SETTING TAILS WAGGING

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Browsing the Facebook page of Hotel do Cão, a pet hotel nestled in the countryside in Vale da Rainha, on the road from Portimão to Monchique, we find hundred of pho- tographs of happy pooches of all breeds and sizes playfully stretching their paws in an idyllic fenced area. Looking at the sheer number of photo albums, it’s no surprise that 48-year- old Miguel Maia Costa, a former agronomist engineer, has had to ex- pand his dog hotel, which was opened in 2011, from eight pens to the current 50. While leaving their beloved pets at a hotel can be an unsettling experience, both for dogs and their owners, at Hotel do Cão the proof is in the pudding: dogs are relaxed when their owners come to pick them up, and tails are set wagging as soon as they approach the gates for another stay. “Some dogs enjoy staying with us so much that some owners often leave them here for a weekend as a reward, simply because they love it,” he says. And figuring out why dogs are eager to return to Hotel do Cão is not that difficult: covering 30,000 sqm, the hotel is a true haven for our four-legged companions, with its two lakes, comfortable and spacious boxes (with underfloor heating and a water mist system to keep dogs cool in the scorching summer heat), and a number of outdoor grass areas, where the pooches are walked or left to sunbathe for a couple of hours every day. Furthermore, to make pets feel truly at home, there is TV ambient sound throughout, with smaller dogs being kept in wood and glass enclosures, which replicate house windows.
The success of Hotel do Cão is not only a product of its facilities, but also of its completely personalised approach. As Miguel explains, the hotel’s loving team tries to keep the animal’s routine as normal as possible: owners are encouraged to bring their pet’s food and treats (to avoid undesired stomach disorders from adjusting to a different kibble), dogs are walked on their own leads, preferably, and are fed the same number of times they would be at home. Twenty-minute walks take place at least twice a day, and the pooches are also left outside for two hours a day to enjoy the Algarve sunshine and safely socialise with other dogs. For added peace of mind for owners, the pens and walk areas are divided according to the pet’s size – small, medium and large – and dogs never share accommodation, unless they belong to the same person. Such care and dedication have made the hotel’s clientele grow by leaps and bounds since its inception in 2011, ranging from visitors who flock to the Algarve on holiday and want to be close to their pets, expats who have to temporarily return to their native country, and local residents out on holiday or work trips. “Demand has been growing ever since we opened,” says the businessman and German Shepherd breeder, who initially built the hotel to accommodate his dogs. “People in the Algarve have changed their lifestyle and have begun to include dogs in their lives. There’s what we call a ‘dog culture’, they now care about training their dogs and including them in their social life,” he adds.
To meet the needs of these clients, Hotel do Cão was expanded in June to accommodate more animals (there are 50 dog pens), a large reception area, a veterinary consultation room and grooming services suited to the most pampered pooches, provided by an experienced local groomer.
Also home to a training centre, the hotel now has an in-house dog behaviourist and trainer, who only uses positive reinforcement methods. There are group sessions available for both puppies and adult dogs, as well as individual sessions for animals with behaviour problems or specific training for sports competition dogs.
Another new addition, which will open in the summer, is accommodation facilities for cats, which Miguel says have been in high demand from clients. “We will have wooden facilities built upwards, with several ‘floors’, because, while dogs feel safe in dens, cats feel more comfortable if they have a place to climb to. There will also be a sun room,” he explains.
For now, the price for a basic daily stay for dogs is €14, excluding food. Grooming and training services can be added as part of the package, as well as extra walks. All dogs staying at Hotel do Cão must have their vaccinations up to date (including kennel cough), and owners can bring their pets’ personal objects, such as toys or bed.
For a closer look at the hotel’s facilities – or a general cuteness overload -, the Hotel do Cão also has a promotional video on its Facebook page, a canine love story, which stars many of the hotel’s four-legged clients, the sequel of which will be released soon. Much like the hotel, the video is a hit, boasting nearly 190,000 views on Facebook – no wonder pups keep lining up for check-in.

Text – ANA TAVARES

THE PRIDE OF THE COMMUNITY: CARVOEIRO NOW HAS ITS VERY OWN FOOTBALL CLUB

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They may have only formed officially in August, but FC Carvoeiro United has already taken its place in the hearts of the community. “The name started as a bit of a joke, but it really represents us well. We’re a mixture of Portuguese and foreign players of various nationalities who have all come together to represent Carvoeiro,” said John Wilson, the team’s treasurer who spoke to Inside along with the rest of the board: president Sandro Pacheco and vice-president Yannick Nicklaus, all of whom play for the team. A dream for many years, the story began with a group of English residents who played five-a-side football at the municipal pitch in Carvoeiro every Monday evening. That was eight years ago, and soon, a number of other nationalities had joined, including 22-year-old Yannick Nicklaus who set the wheels in motion to create Carvoeiro’s very own squad.

“I was invited to train with another local team and thought the standard of our Monday-night football was superior. We decided to get a team together to play a friendly, and it went from there,” said the young founder. First they tried to approach local clubs before deciding that if they were going to make it, they would have to do it on their own. An arduous process followed, with all the necessary paperwork, countless documents, and of course the cost entailed in forming a football club and joining the official football federation. But, with the help of sponsors ­ “especially the local bars and restaurants, mainly Jan and Hemingways” ­ and the commitment and dedication of its members, FC Carvoeiro United (FCCU) was officially founded on August 29, 2014. Playing in the Algarve Football Association’s 1st division (4th tier of the Portuguese football league system), the team’s home ground is actually the municipal stadium in Estombar, granted to them for training and matches by Lagoa Câmara (which also supplies them with a coach for away games). Coached by Paul Atkins, one of the original Monday-night players, the
team trains every Monday and Thursday to prepare for weekly matches every Saturday, which, since the formation of Carvoeiro United, has attracted an ever-growing group of supporters that reflects the team’s international character. With a mixture of Portuguese, English, Dutch, German and other nationalities all involved in the squad, aged between 17 and 38 from around the Lagoa council, the team’s members also have a range of experience, from semi-pros to amateurs, to those who started off in youth academies. “Basically we’re a bunch of lads who are friends,” says John, with president Sandro Pacheco emphasising that the team is a non-profit association: “The club’s fundamental values are playing for pleasure, enjoying the game and respecting others. No one here makes money. Everything that comes in goes towards our costs.” Agreeing that, so far, the team has surpassed their expectations, the boys admit their initial goal is simply getting through the first season. Still in their early days, they hope that by December they will have a strong, established unit, playing in their distinctive orange or baby blue kit. “We are really proud that we’re representing Carvoeiro. The team isn’t made from outsiders, it’s the local community, but we also really need the community’s support,” added the treasurer. “People are extremely proud of Carvoeiro, but they have to show it.” Alongside sponsors, the club is also appealing for muchneeded donations to ensure its survival. Matches cost 2.50 (with a chance to win a prize at half-time) and club merchandise is available to purchase.
Support FC Carvoeiro United by visiting their Facebook page

PHOTOS: ©MARIANNE SCHUYFFEL