Bespoke architecture, where dreams come true

At the age of four, a young John Wilson came to live in Portugal with his Scottish father and Portuguese mother. He fit in immediately and adored the freedom and lifestyle here. Now, 40 years on, we meet with the local Architect and owner of Bespoke to find out a bit more about him and his practice.

In a bright, open-plan office at the end of Rua do Barranco, you’ll find a young team of architects busily working on their projects under John’s guidance. Having studied in London and attaining his degree in his early 20s, he is passionate about his chosen path and keen to show the ropes to his team. His formative years as a young architect were rather intense when he was head architect for the Oceânico group. This position was somewhat a baptism of fire as it was in the period that the group were designing Amendoeira & Belmar Spa. John worked closely with the team creating the Faldo and O’Connor courses, liaising with everyone involved from marketing, construction and even sales. All this whilst completing his Master’s degree, so as you can imagine, he was more than ready when he began to put plans in action to open his own business. In 2011, John opened his doors to the public, and within one year he had employed his first full-time architect.

With his portfolio steadily growing and word getting around, it wasn’t long before the office was full of young, eager talent who all brought with them their own creativity and unique styles to complement each other. Now with a team of six full-time architects, a group of engineers, civil engineers and landscape architects, Bespoke is taking on some inspiring projects. “We fully understand that we are often creating clients dream homes and always take their vision on-board when preparing our designs” says John. “We’ve implemented a wonderful programme that allows us to visualise the projects in 3D, so the clients get a real feel for every angle and aspect.” Exciting new technology and keeping up to date with sustainable trends are paramount to the company’s development. The portfolio is incredible, and they are repeatedly approached by clients with out-of-this-world ideas. Unlike many studios, Bespoke doesn’t have a particular style; what they have is the ability to sit with their clients and listen, visualising what they want but also what they need. “Our current portfolio is diverse, no one wants the same thing. We’ve got some ultra-contemporary homes, traditional classic Algarve style villas and holiday complexes and everything in between,” John explains. “What every project does have in common, though, is that when we are in the planning stages, we always apply functionality and take the sun orientation into account.”

That’s why it’s essential to sit with an architect who listens but also has experience in their field. They need to be able to guide you to the best possible solution of your vision. Many people really want to be part of the process, and Bespoke welcomes that. It’s crucial to create their vision whilst being satisfied that everything has been done to a high standard and adhering to building regulations. “We can’t forget what the purpose of a building is. It must be comfortable, accessible and functional,” John says. “The windows have to be in the right position to maximise the location while ensuring privacy. We try to place the bedrooms in a south-facing direction wherever possible to utilise natural heating and light. Sustainability is a given, we have so much technology available to us now that it should always be applied.”

John and his team are professional, innovative, hard-working, ethical and humble yet with drive and ambition. Bespoke means tailor-made, and that’s precisely what they do. As a parting comment, John told us: “Part of the ethos of our company is to provide a truly tailor-made solution, a bespoke service. So we seek to incorporate design features that go beyond conventional architectural vocabulary, transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary. We are a conscientious, professional and flexible team, capable of building the dreams of clients whilst working in harmony with the natural environment. Each project undertaken by Bespoke includes a detailed brief and budget, which is agreed by the client and set out at the design stage of the project.”

Finding the right people to do a job is hard enough in your native country and language let alone when you’re in the Algarve. Being fully bilingual and an honorary Portuguese, John is a family man from Carvoeiro, who goes beyond job title and puts himself into everything he does. His support for the local football team, Carvoeiro United, is just another testament to the man behind the company.

Bespoke Architects

A gourmet ice-cream brand sold exclusively in the Algarve makes use of a Portugues staple: Medronho

Born in Italy, Roberto Balzer moved to the Algarve 30 years ago with the idea of creating his own brand: La Dolce Vita. He started with pizza and pasta restaurants, in 1987, and in 2014, his dream of making artisanal ice cream using his own recipes finally came to life.

Located in Praia da Rocha, Portimão, the frozen treats factory can ship out up to 800 litres of ice cream every day to wellknown hotels and restaurants throughout the region, such as Vila Vita Parc, in Porches. “I always dreamed of selling my own artisanal ice cream. I took a course with the third-best ice cream maker in the world, in Italy, and started developing my recipes for a few clients, family and friends. But the number of orders started growing and the business followed suit,” Roberto recalls.

So what makes the brand so successful? “This ice cream is made with carefully selected produce and high-quality, raw materials. We have fruit from the Vicentine Coast and the Algarve, such as Silves oranges and lemons. The pistachio we use comes from Bronte, in Sicily, which is the world capital of this fruit. We use milk from that same day, the cream is fresh and both are national. We also have Madagascar vanilla and cacao from Ecuador,” he explains. “In addition to that, we make the orders on the spot and don’t add any flavouring, artificial colouring, genetically modified organisms, vegetable fats or preservatives. The recipe is 100% natural. I believe the key to success comes from the marriage between raw materials, the recipe, dedication, experience and freshness.”

Every day, from morning to night, through winter and summer, the factory puts together several orders of countless flavours. Traditional fruit sorbets are joined by recipes with different chocolates, gourmet tastings and even several alcoholic drinks. For this year, the ice cream maker has already decided the standout flavour — medronho, a traditional Algarve firewater made from the fruit of the strawberry tree. “I am the only one making this ice cream, that I know of. We are talking about a difficult recipe, because alcohol is an antifreeze agent. I had to a lot of perfecting and experimenting to achieve the result I wanted. The whole process took over a month,” Roberto reveals. The ice cream pairs wonderfully “with typical, regional desserts with figs, almond and carob. It is a good allusion to the Algarve, which can attract many connoisseurs and shows the best produce we have here”, he adds.

There are still recipes to be perfected and tested, but there is no shortage of peculiar flavours on the list: goat’s cheese; honey and rosemary; pastel de nata (traditional Portuguese egg-custard tart), complete with puff pastry and cinnamon; dark chocolate and ginger; and even Aperol Spritz, an alcoholic aperitif that complements an Italian drink with sparkling wine. Another unique and innovative variety in Portugal, according to Roberto, is the bread ice cream. All flavours are characterised by their rich creaminess and freshly made confection.

There is no limit for the Italian’s imagination, with all recipes are created and catered to a customer s specific tastes. “Since I make the ice cream to order, I can create very specific flavours which people request for special occasions. I have made ice cream with chorizo, mushrooms, tomato and all kinds of beer,” Roberto says. Even with hundreds of varieties, his favourite is still Bronte pistachio — a flavour that holds the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) certificate, which confirms the place of production for this nut.

“Over the last decade, the Portuguese have started to recognise good ice cream, and when you try a good product, you can tell the difference immediately,” says the ice-cream maker, who grew up in a family also established in the culinary world. “I already have a lot of Portuguese ordering tubs to take home. It’s a growing audience,” he says. Still, there is no comparison with the biggest consumers — the Germans or “the Italians, who prefer to buy tubs instead of ice cream on a stick. When they go to someone’s house for dinner, Italians don’t bring a bottle of wine like the Portuguese, but rather a tub of ice cream”.

Roberto has a piece of advice for true ice cream lovers: “The worldwide trick to know whether there’s a good-quality product is to try the chocolate or pistachio flavours.” With retirement already in sight and the Italian award certifying the quality of his ice cream, he has just one more aspiration: “That one of my children continues with the business.”

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The unexpected beauty of the Algarve’s hidden wildlife.

They are not the most commonly spotted animals in the wild, but if you’re patient enough and enjoy birdwatching/photographing from a hide, you may be surprised by some truly amazing wildlife sightings. From red fox cubs exploring the Monchique hills to a black pig roaming freely around the countryside in Sagres, or even rarely seen rabbits hopping around just before sunrise in Beja (Alentejo), the list of animal species to be spotted — and photographed — is long.

This is exactly what has been happening to Carl Hawker, a nature enthusiast who spends most of his spare time pursuing his love of birdwatching and nature photography. For the past four years, Carl has travelled all over Portugal with his camera around his neck, capturing photos of hundreds of birds: “There are around 300 species of birds in Portugal. So far, I’ve been able to photograph 278, so I’m nearly there,” says Carl, who is also one of the leading voices in the campaign to protect Lagoa’s Alagoas Brancas wetland, a haven for many bird species.

His hobby took a more serious turn when he started using a photographic hide which he made himself to blend in with the surroundings when he is ‘out and about’ doing what he loves the most — photographing the region’s wildlife. His other passions include yoga and generally getting fit (he owns the Just Body gym in Lagoa and is known for his pursuit of the ‘healthy mind, healthy body’ way of life).

The hide helps him remain unnoticed while he snaps stunning photos of animals that are rarely spotted in the Algarve. But some animals aren’t so easily fooled. “The black pig that I photographed, which probably had escaped some farm, came sniffing around the hide. I had to throw some food out so that he’d go away, but he then came back for more!” Eventually, Carl was able to scare the pig away and take another photo for his collection. While his main goal continues to be photographing birds, the hide provides him with the perfect camouflage for other animals to unwittingly steal the spotlight. So, as well as loving and respecting nature, what else do you need if you want to start taking your own wildlife photos? “You’ll need a good lens,” Carl says. “To take good quality photos from a distance, you’ll need a lens of at least 400mm.” If you’re using a hide, however, a 200mm or 300mm lens can suffice.

Plenty of patience is required, too. You’ll have to free up a lot of your time if you want to become serious about wildlife photography. “I usually spend around six hours inside my hide. I set up before the sun comes up so that the wildlife is not aware that I’m there.” Take plenty of water and, of course, some snacks as the wait could be long.

Can Carl recommend an area for aspiring nature photographers to get started? “There’s a bird hide overlooking the lake at Quinta do Lago golf course which is open to anyone. There are dozens of bird species that people can photograph there.” Otherwise, a quick Google search on ‘Algarve birdwatching’ will take you to many good sites and guides on the subject.

Header image: Ocellated lizard – Sardão (Timon lepidus), Herdade dos Grous, Beja 09/03/2019
TEXT Michael Bruxo
PHOTOS Carl Hawker

Algarve Selvagem explores the inner beauty of southern Portugal and beyond.

Portugal is a stunningly beautiful and diverse country made up of a long, thin mainland and the archipelagos of the Azores and Madeira. The country’s staggering 1,794km of coastline provide a vast playground for aquatic adventures, and Inside Carvoeiro met with the owner’s of Algarve Selvagem, Paulo Martins and Sandra Silva, to discover some of the tours they have on offer.

The most local and accessible of the current tours is the Alvor Kayak and Oyster tour, consisting of morning activities in the coastal gardens of Alvor. Floating in our Kayak, we passed by an area where one of our expert guides asked us to get out and go wild oyster picking with them. They located them in no time and placed them in the bag for a snack later in the morning. Proceeding out by the sandbanks, we parked up and took a walk through the marshes before continuing into the canals of the Ria Formosa lagoon to visit the oyster and clam nurseries and learn about the secrets and work of the shellfish farmers who produce these delicacies that grace our tables. As we headed back to land, we stopped off for the incredible treat of our freshly picked oysters and a cool glass of Vinho Verde. This tour has an optional lunch included, which is served overlooking the Ria in one of Alvor’s most famous tascas.

Paulo Martins is a passionate sailor, surfer, diver, fisherman and all-round outdoorsman. He’s incredibly well-travelled and loves Portugal more and more as the years go on. His love for all-things nature has pushed him to create the tour company that he runs with partner Sandra Silva. They have taken a significant amount of time and consideration in planning their routes. Through the Algarve, you can enjoy tours such as the Seven Suspended Valleys, which begins at the Alfanzina lighthouse and extends to the Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Rocha. Between cliffs and valleys of wild vegetation and pines, deserted beaches and caves of fine white sand, green and blue seas and incredible rock formations, this tour shows some of the most beautiful landscapes of the Algarve coast. Then there’s the Hiking & Gastronomy tour on the Costa Vicentina, from Zambujeira do Mar to Odeceixe along the coastal tracks, passing the waterfalls in the woods, on the dune lines until arriving at Ponta Branca to be faced with the beautiful scenery of the beach and coast of Odeceixe. With everyone working up a good appetite, the tour finishes with a special lunch of traditional cuisine, cooked over a wood fire.

Visitors can also walk through the Serra de Monchique and experience the freshness of its forests with its oaks, cork and chestnut trees among other species. The walk extends through the beautiful paths between the grove and terraces leading to waterfalls and the abandoned village of Barbelote. You can also spend a day in Kayak through one of the most beautiful and natural and wild beaches and the Algarve coast in the south Sagres area, from Martinhal beach, where the wild and pristine natural landscapes are fabulous. The gentle rowing allows you to enjoy the fantastic formations and colours, the wild and deserted beaches of green waters, as Costa Vicentina remains free of crowds and naturally beautiful.

Not content with exploring the Algarve and with that wanderlust still burning inside him, Paulo has spent a few years exploring the tiny former Portuguese colony of Bijagós (the Bissagos Islands), wedged between Senegal and Guinea. The company now offers a one-week sailing expedition, the Biosphere Reserve and UNESCO Heritage sailing tour. Here participants can experience the enormous diversity of the Bijagós, enjoying a new beach every morning, surfing in the mangroves, visiting several tabancas (traditional villages), fishing in different places every day and exploring the archipelago’s biodiversity. According to Paulo, Bijagós is not a monetised society and so money is rarely used.

This is a trip to the most remote places with authentic and wild islands where people can really get in touch with nature and enjoy a free way of life. Fish that are caught during the day will be served for dinner aboard or on one of the picnics on a secluded beach. Activities range from fishing, beach and forest walks, visiting canals, woods and savannahs, and the tabancas. Everything is programmed to ensure that you are always in contact with the exuberant nature of Bijagós. Travellers can observe turtles hatching in Poilão or take the optional excursion to watch the salt-water hippos on the island of Orango Grande. This tour is available from November 22 until May next year and guests will depart from the Port of Bissau, having been collected by the crew from the airport, with prices from €1,395 per person for a double cabin and single occupancy for an additional €470.

Algarve Selvagem also has available a trip to the Azores. This year, the Açores Mágico tour is running between September 17-23, with a unique programme of hiking and leisure on one of the most beautiful islands of the Azores, São Miguel, which has been one of Paulo’s favourite paradises since the 1980s. The five days of trails through the wonderful island include visits to stunning waterfalls, hidden paths, unforgettable lagoons and places of unique beauty and historical importance. Rich gastronomy, natural spas and hot baths of thermal waters and much more are available besides the Hiking Programme. With prices starting at €595, guests can enjoy six days and five nights, accommodation with breakfast, lunch, activities, all transfers on the island, all the activities, excursions and trips with dinner and guides. All external trips do not include airfares.

Facebook: algarvesselvagem

Fun-loving, activity fans will love this new addition to our coast.

Seeing someone on a flyboard for the first time is quite a spectacular and mesmerising sight to behold. Out of nowhere, a big stream of water propels someone, usually vertically, from the sea, where they float mid-air and perform stunts. The seed is planted, and you’ll probably begin to wonder what it would feel like to shoot through the water, jump into the sky and dive through the waves.
Local businessman and radical sports lover Beat Gobet fell in love with flyboarding the first time he tried it in 2015. There was a real shortage of places to flyboard in the Algarve at the time, so he bought his own equipment in 2016 and spent every available moment diving through the waves and perfecting his technique. The Swiss-born Carvoeiro restaurateur is never too far from the sea — whether he is in his restaurant Dom Carvoeiro that looks directly over Carvoeiro Bay or at his custom-made Flyboard Park in-between Praia Grande and Portimão Marina.

His love for the sport has seen him travel internationally and he even took part in the Flyboard World Championship in 2017, in France. As a novice, he loved the experience and was determined to return and make his mark the following year. At the 2018 championship, he made the qualifying and took 12th place overall, which was quite a feat. Being the only person from Portugal in the tournament, he was delighted with his result.

Participants can either meet one of the team at their sales cabin on the Portimão Marina or even get picked up from the beach at Praia Grande if you prefer. Beat will welcome you on-board and go through a brief safety and technique chat before hooking you up to the equipment. With the flyboard securely attached to your ankles, you slide from the boat into the sea and head for the Flyboard Park, a restricted designated area reserved just for them.

With gently controlled bursts of power coming from the attached Jet Ski, one of the trained crewmembers will begin to send the stream of water through the connecting pipe into the platform attached to your boots. Once they are happy that you can stay upright, they will then start to pump up the power. Although experienced users can jump up to 15 meters out of the water, this won’t happen on your first visit as the crew need to be assured that users safety is well taken care of.

The sensation of floating above the sea and jumping through the waves is really something that you need to experience for yourself. Once people have grasped the basics, you can often see them skimming along the surface and swimming like a dolphin, it’s a magical feeling. It’s not so difficult to do, but people with a strong core generally take to it faster than others. Adrenaline junkies, skiers, surfers and overall sporty people are usually up and in the air within a minute, performing stunts and dives that look impossible to spectators.

With prices ranging from €60 to around €200, depending on time, group size and frequency, many people get hooked and visit on multiple occasions during their holiday, so discounted rates can be applied for situations such as this. Groups of three, for example, would pay €150 for a full hour and take a couple of spectators along for the boat ride. Or for the more diehard amongst us, there’s a full day including transportation, food, drinks, flyboarding, jet-skiing, and aquatic fun at the Montargil Dam, in the Alentejo, where you have full access to all the toys.

Flyboard Algarve operates all year round but is generally at the dam between November and March due to the winds.

www.flyboardalgarve.com

TEXT Mia Wallace
PHOTOS Chloe Ophelia

Our favourite restaurants with sea views in the Carvoeiro area.

With hundreds of restaurants in the local area, finding the right one can be quite a daunting task. There are many factors to consider — location, whether you’re in the mood for fish or meat and perhaps you’re celebrating a special occasion so you need somewhere a bit special. We took the task of locating some new and old restaurants that filled our criteria of offering a good selection of quality dishes with a beautiful view out to sea or over the Arade River.

Borda do Cais

You’ll find this lovely, traditionally decorated, tasca-style restaurant overlooking the estuary of Ferragudo. Surrounded by fishermen bringing in their haul and tending to their nets, this is a real taste of the Algarve. With two storeys offering fabulous views out towards Portimão, this is an incredible spot where you can enjoy fresh fish, straight from the chilled display with a bottle of wine from their excellent and diverse wine list while sitting back and savour the surroundings. The grill master is busy working with his large, charcoal BBQ just outside the restaurant, giving a new twist to the term open kitchen.

The downstairs area has both inside and outside dining areas, but they’re divided only by retracting glass panels, so in the heat of the summer the two often become one. Upstairs, there’s a charming terrace that offers much sought-after, uninterrupted views and a little more privacy due to its elevation. The fish is mostly by the kilo, and you’ll be invited to have a look in the display area to select your lunch or dinner. They also have a good selection of quality meats, cataplanas and a few fixed-price fish dishes, including the famous local sardines.

Open every day from 12pm to 10pm in July and August, this is an excellent place for a date or to hang out with friends.
Facebook: bordadocais

Casa do Rio

With its stylish and luxurious décor and the magnificent backdrop of the ‘new’ Portimão bridge, this restaurant is tremendously grown-up compared to its neighbours and has a bit of a chic-city vibe to boot. The elegant dining room is host to the open kitchen where you can see the chefs preparing the Portuguese dishes right in front of you.

Serving a selection of tapas-style dishes along with a good range of meat and fish main courses, the style here is a modern presentation using traditional recipes. Vegans are well catered for too, just ask the waiter when you arrive, and they will take care of dietary and lifestyle requests. The smaller dishes are good for sharing, and the main courses have some small sides included with the option of adding more from the menu. The wine and drinks list have a good variation that can be enjoyed either in the sophisticated dining room or outside on the riverfront terrace, where you can enjoy the summer breeze and attractive surroundings.

Casa do Rio is open every day except Monday from 12.30pm to 10.30pm.
Facebook: Casa do Rio – Mexilhoeira da Carregação

O Algar

A family-run restaurant tucked up on the cliff, overlooking Benagil beach, O Algar prides itself on its locally caught wild fish, seasonal selection of side dishes and homemade desserts. A firm fish lovers’ favourite for over a quarter-century, the inside of the restaurant is cosy yet spacious and is continuously being updated by the owners. This is where you’ll see the beautiful selection of fresh fish on display alongside the great variety of Portuguese wines on show.

Outside, there’s a long terrace that follows the boundary walls and has individual tables spread out, looking out to sea. The setting is simple, yet inviting, and there are a few traditional Algarvean homes at the end, so you get a real local feeling sitting here, away from the crowds yet enjoying the best of the summer evenings.

Open from Tuesday to Sunday for dinner only, O Algar is a wonderful, elevated little corner of the now world-famous Benagil.
Tel: 282 358 951

Pani

This lovely restaurant is perched on the right side of the cliff, overlooking Carvoeiro beach. Built over three levels with the road entrance lounge that houses two small tables and the wine cellar, the main entrance is just a little further up the hill and around the back of the building with a beautiful carved wooden door frame that sets the mood for the interior.

Carefully and tastefully designed to make the most of the panoramic views, with touches of Indian objets d’art strategically placed to add to the ambience and compliment the extensive menu and varied wine list. The dishes are a good size and subtly spiced and paired with a breathtaking view.

Open every day from 11am until 11pm, there’s nowhere quite like it around.
Tel: 282 185 525

Club Nau

If you’re looking for a chilled-out beach lounge, look no further than Club Nau on Praia Grande in Ferragudo. Sit back and enjoy the sound of the sea blended with a carefully crafted cocktail and enjoy the moment.
The new menu features great big salads, pasta and risotto, vegetarian dishes, matured beef, cataplana, catch of the day and artisanal burgers to list a few items. Then there’s the fabulous sushi bar inside, where they use top-class ingredients to make some of the best sushi in the Algarve. The addition of a robata grill gives a great charcoal flavour to the menu, including scallops, kebabs and asparagus. The wine list has been well considered and offers a fabulous selection of beautiful, Portuguese wines, and the cocktail list is packed with summer favourites.

Live music is a big part of the vibe here with a varied selection of artists. They also host the BeachFest on Praia Grande, where a stage is constructed on the beach in front of the cub for three days of live music between July 19-21.
Open from 10am until 2am during summer, Club Nau is very popular among locals and gets very busy on Sundays, so reservations are highly recommended.
www.club-nau.com

Header image: Borda do Cais
TEXT Mia Wallace
PHOTOS (except Club Nau) ©Chloe Ophelia

Inside Carvoeiro visits Convent’Bio

We have patiently been watching the renovation of the old convent, just off the EN125 road that runs through the centre of Lagoa, and wondered what it might be — another hotel or maybe a private residence? When the sign went up saying Convent’Bio, we were thrilled to find that there would be a working biological and entirely organic farm right on our doorstep.

Our first visit was in early February, and we were pleasantly surprised that we recognised the face of the operation, Fátima Baiona, who is an Agronomic Engineer that we met a few years ago as one of the founders of the organic farm Pé de Salsa in Monchique. Following the recent fires in Monchique and business complications, Fátima was approached by Engineer Pina, of the local agricultural and gardening company, Sani Pina, to create something at the old convent site in Lagoa. The initial idea was vague, and Fátima insisted that the site must be fully organic, as that is where her passion and beliefs lie. She even told Pina, “This can only work on my terms”. The pair agreed and bounced ideas back and forth to create a plan of action. The first stage of operation took place in January 2018 and the land has been turned and is producing a bounty of beautiful crops on some of the 3.5-hectare plot around the main building.

The building itself has been very sympathetically restored and has a lovely feeling to it, it’s almost as if the new parts have always been there. There’s a central café and shop area as you go through the courtyard packed with a fabulous array of produce from the farm and carefully selected suppliers whom they deal with directly. “We are trying to bring back the roots and heritage of the old Algarve. Our crops include asparagus, pumpkin, courgette, aubergine, fennel, cabbage, carrots, green beans, beetroot, spinach and herbs,” Fátima said. “We are just beginning to plant 2ha of avocados on another site, near Sesmarias, and will soon plant rows of fruit trees along the borders of our property.”

In the shop, you will find a great selection of vegan, biological and organic products such as many varieties of pasta, pâtés, juices, honey, sauces and pulses, which you might expect, but they also carry ranges of home and personal cleaning products, suntan lotions, and even reusable nappies and sanitary products that are free from harmful chemicals. There’s a frozen section that ensures the freshness and quality of the meats on sale along with a refrigerated area for more perishable items. The central focus is the vibrant vegetables that come in all shapes and sizes. There will be an area where you can buy a vast selection of both wet and dry products by weight, which is a fantastic idea, especially for people who live alone or only want a small quantity of something. Teas, spices, flowers, beans, grains and pulses will also be available in this section along with oils and honey.

By the entrance, you’ll find the café that is open every day (except Sunday), from 10am to 6pm in the winter and until 7pm in the summer. There’s a cosy seating area inside where you can enjoy a healthy meal or snack from the freshly prepared seasonal menu and a delicious selection of homemade cakes, including vegan options. Everything is organic, and they don’t use refined sugars. On the drinks front, they have BioCoffee by Delta, fresh juices, organic wines and teas to choose from that can be enjoyed either inside or outside on the courtyard. On Saturdays, they plan to host brunch by the wood stove, where they will be baking homemade loaves of bread and pizzas, and you can enjoy the view out over the crops. This has been inspired by the local tradition of breaking hot bread (tibornas), which reminds Fátima of sitting around the table with her grandmother at the weekend. Convent’Bio will also introduce workshops soon and the owners want to get children involved by introducing them to the fields, where they can understand the importance of organic farming principles and where their food comes from. The top floor of the main building houses a large room that has been earmarked for show cooking, workshops, yoga and other complementary activities. They also plan to host concerts, exhibitions and the occasional gallery.

Convent’Bio work with small producers and they have a field-to-plate ethos, taking pride in knowing the source of everything in the shop. Prior to opening, they were already in full swing with their home-delivery service — you can shop online for all of their lines and either have it delivered straight to your door in the Algarve for only €3.95 or collect your box from one of the many pick-up points from Tavira to Aljezur.

The project has been a labour of love, and you can tell there has been considerable attention to detail in the renovation. There is a feeling of tranquillity and calmness as soon as you enter the grounds and as you approach the building, you might be surprised to find that a lot of it is under one year old as it looks as if it’s been there forever.
It’s a great collaboration between two unlikely business partners that is bound to set the ball rolling as far as organic farming in the area is concerned.

www.conventbio.com

Text Mia Wallace
Photos Daniel James Clarke

Escape One bring us the first of their mystery rooms

Some people will not have heard of an escape room and must think that it’s some strange kind of pastime, but in fact, it’s actually a great way to spend an hour as a group of friends or family. It’s essentially a team game, and, ideally, you should bring different types of people with you — someone with strong problem-solving skills, someone who is good with mathematical equations, someone who is curious and, most importantly, people that you can spend an hour with in a room.

Based in Portimão, Escape One opened last July and The Laboratory is the first room from a husband-and-wife team who already have their second room, Atlantis, in production and should be open for Easter. There’s also a third and slightly more spooky Zombie room on the drawing board for later this year. We drove up to the door where we were welcomed by owner Katie Bodsworth, and escorted to the room. Like most escape rooms, it’s located in a shop lot, and you could easily miss it unless you knew it was there. Katie’s husband and gamesmaster David was waiting for us, and soon the induction meeting began. Those who have never been will welcome Katie’s insight on the purpose of this activity: “In an escape room, it’s all about achievement — getting rewarded for the work you do and nothing if you don’t do anything! It’s about technique and patience,” she explains. “You have to organise yourselves, go through all the steps and wait a bit to see your results. The focus in an escape game is on teamwork, real communication between real people.”

Escape rooms can often seem like perfectly straightforward spaces at first glance, but they hide many secrets. “It might be an office, an apartment entryway, a prison cell, a bank vault or even a rabbit hole. It will depend on the story you’re starring in,” Katie says. “But wait, there’s something not quite right about that drawer — it has a false bottom! There’s a folded piece of paper in it! It has what looks like a cypher written on it, and in the corner, a page reference? You look around. There are some books on a shelf…” And so the story begins to unravel. Hidden in the room are puzzles, enigmas, mysteries and secrets the group must put together and solve “until you have played out your script. The aim is to escape the room within the hour”.

After our briefing, we entered our room and the door locked behind us. Game on. Each room is unique, and you can only solve it once, which is why we won’t give too much away. All we’ll say is that the theme here is of a laboratory and we got out just in time with a few hints from the games-masters who were watching our every move on the cameras.

The Laboratory is a mystery room suitable for all ages since it’s not dark or scary. There are chairs for people with reduced mobility to sit while exercising their brains and it’s wheelchair accessible.

According to the founders of Escape One, the demographics in the escape-rooms business is mostly comprised of millennials, but that didn’t stop them: “We are among the oldest games-masters that we have come across. Maybe that’s why  our room is frequently hailed to be a bit different,” says Katie. “Escape rooms have arrived, and they’re here to stay. But what makes them so addictive? Why do we want to be locked in a room?” she wonders. “Watching all the lovely millennials (and occasionally their parents) playing our escape room has made me realise why escaping in any way is so important in our culture today.”

Katie also points out how different people react in different ways to the challenges: “If I’ve learned anything from watching people play escape games, it’s that everyone sees the world differently. Age and experience make you focus on different things, and I guess this shows through in your work.” Katie and David are very enthusiastic and their energy is contagious. They don’t limit the hints but don’t give them out haphazardly either. Everyone gets out, and getting out within the hour gives you a great sense of achievement.

We were all very excitable when we got out of the room, taking great pleasure in patting each other on the back and can’t wait for the next rooms to open!

www.escapeonealgarve.com

Text: Mia Wallace
Photos: byophelia.com

Zoomarine has new attractions and improved facilities

Way back in 1991, Portuguese-Argentinean businessman, Pedro Lavia, opened the doors to his dream park, Zoomarine Algarve. Anyone who went when it opened probably wouldn’t recognise it now as it keeps evolving and growing into its 26-hectare plot, making it the biggest theme park of its kind in Portugal. The team was the first to introduce dolphins to the country and, in 2002, opened the first marine species rehabilitation centre in Portugal, Porto d’Abrigo.

Things were going swimmingly but Pedro wanted to keep on going and the park expanded in 2008 to include the very popular water park. Around six years later, the big push came, and Zoomarine Beach was born, complete with a wave pool, sandy beach area with loungers and surrounding slides to keep everyone entertained. In 2015 the top-rated pirate show called Pirate Bay came into the fold. Here, revellers can witness extraordinary acrobatic performances played out by the sword-wielding, eye-patch wearing pirates who act out a new show every year, full of hazardous stunts and merriment.

In 2017 the children’s play area, Treasure Island, was added to the ever-growing list of attractions and the most recent addition was being completed as we went to print, Jurassic River. Inspired by the popular Jurassic Park movie franchise, this attraction spans over half a kilometre of small rapids and bending  rivers with fantastic scenery along the way, including dense jungle-like banks, a crashed plane and the jeep from the original film and lots of surprises around each corner. Massive dinosaurs are placed around the edge of the river and up in the surrounding hills. Expertly designed, you can’t really see too far ahead as you twist your way through the trail, which adds to the excitement when you suddenly find yourself under a waterfall or faced with a dinosaur who has a few tricks up its sleeve. With some of the dinosaurs moving and spraying water and others strategically placed as props, the element of surprise is maintained throughout.

The sea lion and seal enclosure is undergoing a massive facelift and will incorporate elements from these animals’ habitat, enriching the experience. Spectators will be able to witness the mammals in their natural environment around the time of the shows.

Visitors can take to the sky on the giant wheel near the middle of the park, and enjoy a bird’s eye view over all of the attractions. There’s also 4D cinema, a lovely carousel, a small but fast roller coaster, a swinging pirate ship, the very cute Zoomarine express and many water-themed attractions with three swimming pools and the famous beach. The park also offers fun and educational shows, such as the birds of prey and tropical birds performances, where the handlers explain a bit about each of the species and show them to the crowd.

But, of course, Zoomarine is most famous for their dolphins. The park offers stunning dolphin shows where spectators can sit in the auditorium and enjoy the trainers explaining a bit about these beautiful creatures before the stars swim in and take their position. Lasting around 30 minutes, they are quite a spectacle with lots of interaction and solo performances. Zoomarine is also one of only two places in Europe where you can actually swim with these wonderful mammals. You can have a small interaction with a dolphin and a photoshoot, a full-on interactive swimming experience that sees people travelling from all over the world to participate, or even an underwater scuba experience.

The team at Zoomarine are animal lovers, marine biologists and conservationists and, as such, they take great pride in making sure that all of the mammals, reptiles and birds are cared for and treated with respect.  The development of the park and team is built around education, and they welcome school groups, nearly every day, to tell them about the various species that live there. Currently, 50% of the park is water-themed, which is great to battle the midday heat of the Algarve’s sunny weather.

On the food front, Zoomarine has the traditional selection of water-park treats, such as burgers and hotdogs, along with healthier options like the eco food outlet, Captain’s Kitchen — where even the utensils are environmentally friendly — or the main food hall, where visitors can have a healthy salad and local dishes. A little insider tip to avoid the crowds — go on the weekend. It may sound strange, but it’s true. Historically, the park is busier during the week. You can also buy a second-day pass for only €8 to visit the park again within 10 days, just in case you couldn’t squeeze everything in.

Text: Mia Wallace

Header image: Zoomarine

Photos: byophelia.com

The future looks bright for Atrium Lagoa

As we all know, the Algarve is a trendy destination for foreign visitors and investors, and thankfully, Dutch entrepreneur Erik de Vlieger fell in love with the region of Lagoa many years ago. Better known for his partnership with Carvoeiro Clube, where alongside his Swiss friend and business partner, Andreas Stocker, they have been rejuvenating many older properties along the coast and even developing two new resorts in Carvoeiro, Quinta do Algarvio and Vale de Milho Village.
We met with Erik to talk about his new project Atrium Lagoa that will see the long-abandoned shell of a building, at the entrance to the town, transformed into a bright, light, stylish housing solution. “I love urban developments, they get my creativity flowing and that’s actually where I started out, back in Amsterdam,” Erik told us.
With 52 apartments ranging from one to five bedrooms, including three palatial penthouses with air conditioning and semi-equipped kitchens and prices initially starting at €105,000, it’s no surprise that at the time of going to print, they had already sold 25% of the apartments and only have units from €120,000 to €230,000 in stock at this early, pre-build stage. There will also be 71 underground car parking spaces over two levels, 54 storage rooms along with 13 retail areas, that are, again, selling straight off plan.

Centrally located both for local transport links via the nearby bus station and straight onto the national roads, connecting residents to everywhere else in Algarve, Lisbon, Seville and more in no time at all. The design of Atrium Lagoa will blend efficiency and an urban-chic style, incorporating energy-efficient solutions, innovative outdoor features with more than 2,100sqm of gardens, balconies and terraces that benefit from its south-facing exposure. The prices are very attractive for both local and foreign residents and are refreshingly realistic and accessible in the buoyant property bubble that Portugal has been experiencing for the past couple of years. That’s what urban regeneration should be all about, not pushing out young and local people but instead offering them a place to build their lives.
“This is a new approach to urban life, with open living spaces and natural light. Atrium Lagoa should be ready to welcome its first residents in early 2020,” Erik told us. “The project is expected to start being built late 2018. The estimated period will vary between 18 and 24 months and the total area will cover almost 12,000sqm.”
He joked that this abandoned structure had “irritated” him for the past 12 years; whenever he drove past it, he thought it was like an ugly set of front teeth in an otherwise pretty smile. Finally, enough was enough, and he went to Banco Montepio in 2010 to see how much they wanted for it. Unfortunately, because the construction company was crippled by the recession, the asking price was very high. In 2017, however, the bank came to him and the deal was done. A self-described urban developer, the Dutch entrepreneur says he has never worked so hard in his life: “The bureaucracy in Portugal really is out of this world.”
Similarly to the works he is carrying out on the waterfront area in Portimão, he wants Atrium to set an example, leave a mark and boost the local economy. He believes that it’s important to employ local people, and has therefore chosen local company Simão & Martins to complete the construction of the building. Bearing in mind that the existing structure had been abandoned for many years, it was vitally important to run a variety of quality and safety inspections to ensure that everything meets the current standards, and the result came back positive.
Architect João Carriço, of Studio Arte, in Portimão, was responsible for the design, which was based on sustainability, simplicity, transparency and open spaces. “On the top floor, the apartments will have very generous dimensions,” he said. “The five-bedroom units will have about 250sqm, the four-bedrooms around 200sqm and the three-bedrooms close to 190sqm.” According to the architect, the underground parking spaces will feature electric chargers for cars of the future, and the roof will be created as an urban garden and a lounge area, with an accessible terrace with a play area, accessible by all residents. “The entire building has been designed with the intention of promoting fluid circulation between spaces.”

Arnold Aarsen, head of Studio Arte, stated that the entire Atrium Lagoa is characterised by a concept that involves elements of nature and natural light: “We realise that Portuguese homes have many blinds or curtains to protect them from the sun, but we like a more transparent building so we will use different solutions.” The goal, he says, is for residents to always have natural light in their home, and the balcony will be integrated into the living room. The rear area will also boast a mini-garden, with water, natural light and a vertical wall with plants. “We’ve also studied the position of the air conditioner and machinery to try and keep the building as clean as possible,” he explains. “Within this complex, we will have a communal laundry room as well as a condominium room and a small gym.”

Considering the issue of sustainability, care will be taken to install solar panels and a heat pump along with both thermal and acoustic elements being addressed. Perforated panels will be placed to break up the facade of the building with some ornamental notes, but at the same time creating filters that allow the balconies to have more shadows. The main focus here is light, sustainability and quality. Studio Arte believes these combinations will ultimately lead to a healthy living environment.
The project promises to give Lagoa her smile back, and Erik de Vlieger is excited about the future: “I see a bright future in the Algarve, I’m happy here. However, as an urban developer, my speciality is to improve the look of cities, even though I’m a businessman and not a philanthropist,” he joked.

Text Mia Wallace

Casa Xyza is a contemporary wellness retreat in Ferragudo

Driving along the coastal road from Carvoeiro to Ferragudo, you could easily drive past the beautiful Casa Xyza, perched on the right side of the road, just before the entrance to Praia Grande beach. Architecturally, the façade is hugely sympathetic to the neighbouring properties and seaside location, and from the street view, you wouldn’t really imagine what is contained within.

Casa Xyza’s atmosphere exudes calmness, and the layout lends itself well to social living while offering privacy within each of the spacious five en-suite bedrooms. The rehabilitation of the original villa was finished in September 2017, under the watchful eye of the conceptual design team of Studio Arte, in Portimão, who have incorporated their signature style with lots of flowing, natural light and use of local materials. The interior design has been a labour of love for the Dutch owners and Georgia de Vlieger, of Georgia Interior Design, with all items throughout the villa having been handpicked to create perfect harmony between the modern, new image of the building and the surrounding, natural elements.

“This is a modern house, boasting incredible sea views and Ibiza-style elegance with sandy colours and neutral tones throughout,” said Marta Nobre, from Pipol Agency. “It’s equipped with a spacious living and dining area, a modern open kitchen and five bedrooms, which can accommodate a maximum of 10 guests, and offers many places to relax and enjoy or sunbathe to energise your body and mind.”
This autumn, Casa Xyza hosted its first Wellness Retreat from November 5-9. The event combined many forms of relaxation and wellness activities while guests soaked up the ambience and enjoyed the tranquil connection with the surrounding nature and soothing sensation of being by the sea. The array of activities had something for all tastes, ranging from Yoga classes to aromatherapy massages, deep meditation with Tibetan bowls or long walks on the beach, which is only a couple of minutes from the house.

According to Marta, the goal of this villa is simple: “We are a small, service-orientated and flexible retreat and guests are welcome to book extra Yoga classes or massages and enjoy the sunset with a glass or two of local, biological wines.”
For accommodation during the retreat, there are various options within the en-suite rooms, double rooms with two single beds (€800) and double rooms with a double bed are €1,000 for solo occupancy or €700 for double occupancy. Guests can opt for a return airport transfer for an additional €100.
Throughout the year, you can rent Casa Xyza independently and enjoy this contemporary, seaside villa with friends or family, as it is a child-friendly space that lends itself well to groups.

www.casaxyza.com

Photos: Luís da Cruz

Inside Carvoeiro visits some of the new restaurants in town

This year has seen the biggest rush of new openings in Carvoeiro for as long as we can remember, and it’s not just restaurants – global brand Ale Hop also opened a shop in the old newsagents on Rua do Barranco, along with a couple of new wine shops. With around 100 restaurants in and around Carvoeiro, you would think that there were enough already, but it would appear that there’s indeed plenty of room for some more.

The Wine House

The latest wine shop in town is The Wine House, a tasting store and tapas bar just across the road from the taxi rank. This is a bit special because they mostly stock wines that you will not find in most other places. Belmira Cruz is the house wine and is named after the owners’ beloved grandmother, with varieties from all over Portugal and free international delivery. Just above The Wine House, there’s a new day spa called Prana Bali Spa where you’ll find the very talented masseuse Made, from Bali.
Upstairs from The Wine House and Força Portugal, opposite the taxi rank, O Albatroz opened earlier this year and has seen its following growing steadily. A spacious restaurant with an outside terrace, it’s sympathetically decorated with a decent menu featuring fresh fish and meat dishes. Some of the dishes have a touch of Brazilian inspiration, courtesy of the owners, and there’s a good selection of wines along with a fully stocked bar.

Chef’s Kitchen
Photo: Dave Sheldrake

Chef ’s Kitchen has probably made the biggest splash as the building underwent a total renovation and now has an extra roof terrace and cocktail lounge. It’s unrecognisable with ultra cool décor, fixtures and fittings. Set over three floors, the large, open-plan layout is filled with cool touches. The menu is very different from the other restaurants in the area, with items like Lebanese meatballs, a Buddha Bowl, veal and foie gras, Wagyu Beef Burgers and a Tomahawk. There’s a kids menu and a yummy dessert section for those with a sweet tooth. As for drinks, they serve local Dos Santos craft beer and special Super Bock lagers on draft, a comprehensive but compact wine list and of course a good choice of gins from the big, central bar.
Joining them is Pani. Looking to the main Carvoeiro beach, you’ll see a road going up to the left, along the cliff side; walk up this road for about 100m and you’ll find this stunning Indian restaurant on the right-hand side that boasts unparalleled views out to the ocean. The décor is beautiful with some ornate Indian pieces, and the furnishings are top quality. The menu features all the classics along with a few of house specials, and strong wine list with some unusual listings. With a small terrace and dining area featuring a wine cellar, a bar and lovely dining room on the first floor and a superb roof terrace, they’ve kept their prices in the mid-range and will no doubt become a very popular establishment.

Gum Tree
Photo: Dave Sheldrake

Hidden behind Brady’s bar on Estrada do Farol, Gum Tree is an absolute oasis with beautiful terraces, a mature garden, indoor and outdoor dining areas, bars and a swimming pool. Serving a vast range of Portuguese and international dishes in generous quantities and their unique house wine, Belmira Cruz, Gumtree is already attracting lots of returning customers. Previously called ‘Flamingo’, a local businessman with years of experience in the industry took on this big, old and somewhat previously unloved restaurant, and it paid off. At the time of going to press, they were serving dinner only, but next year they will be looking at changing their schedule.
Previously in Senhora da Rocha, Gurkha Kitchen has taken just two months to hit the top spot on Tripadvisor since opening and has brought Nepalese food to Carvoeiro. The chef has a somewhat regal background, having worked as a chef for royalty in the past, and son Robin is out front taking care of the day-to-day running of things. Subtle spices and fragrant herbs are blended together to create a selection of unique and delicious dishes. You’ll find them on the road between O Cantinho and The Wolf. The interior dining room has lovely little touches from Nepal, and there’s a spacious terrace at road level.

Taste

Not new, but worth a mention, Taste have moved to the end of Rua do Barranco, on the left. They’ve totally refurbished a building that was empty for as long as we can remember. The bright new interior has lovely touches, there’s a little lounge downstairs for pre/post dinner drinks and a large terrace in the garden. The menu is as good as ever, and they have a fulltime mixologist who serves great cocktails.
Bon appétit!

Your must-have guide to live music, DJ parties and festivals during July and August

We love to party in Portugal, and although Carvoeiro might look like a sleepy seaside resort during the day, you’ll be spoiled for choice for things to do when the sun goes down.
There’s live music every night on the main square in front of the beach with the Arte Viva Duo on Mondays and DJ João Sousa on Tuesdays; Ricardo Sousa is on rotation with a new, not yet confirmed artist on Wednesdays; DJ Mike or Alexandre Ramos on Thursdays; Jorge Rodrigues on Fridays; DJ Alexandre Ramos or Mike on Saturday nights and Ricardo Sousa on Sundays. These performances are sponsored by the restaurants on the main square and will take place for most of the summer period with a brief break between August 11t and 15, when the Sons do Atlântico World Music Festival will take place with a spectacular fireworks show on the 15th to mark the end of the festival.
During Summer, Tivoli Carvoeiro’s Sky Bar will host a fantastic programme of weekly themed parties and Sunsets, with live music performances and exclusive signature cocktails.
Kicking off the festivities, July 20 welcomes the ‘70s, ‘80s & ‘90s Weekend, while the 27th and 28th will be a Fado & Chill Out Weekend; August 1 and 2 will see the New York House Weekend while The Best of Brazil Weekend will take place on August 10 and 11. The next weekend (17 & 18) hosts the Classic Ibiza Lounge Weekend, followed by the London Funk Time Weekend on 24 and 25, while the weekend of August 31 and September 1 will see the Paris Chic Weekend.
Many bars host live music evenings, with Brady’s Irish Bar playing live music six days a week (Tuesday to Sunday) and the Round-Up Saloon alternating between live music and karaoke on a nightly basis. Relative newcomers Kula Bar have the South Kick Acoustic duo every Tuesday night. Manoel’s Jazz Club Carvoeiro, in Monte Carvoeiro, has live music with Tuniko Goulart every Thursday from 10pm. The Jailhouse has live music every night and an open mic session in the beer garden on Sundays from 4pm, while the five-star Monte Santo Resort has DJ Sunset sessions on Fridays with Kevin Sky. Restaurant Taste has a live singer every Thursday night and Pimenta Preta has ambient music every Wednesday with Carlos Pontes.

Sons do Atlântico (Photo by CMLagoa)

Slightly further afield you’ll find the very popular beach bar and live music venue, Club Nau on Praia Grande beach in Ferragudo. The Magic Sundays are host to a variety of cover bands who perform to a packed house every Sunday, all year, however, in the summer it’s a non-stop party venue with live music every night from the middle of July when their fabulous summer festival takes place. On the July 15, the free festival opens with Ben and the Pirates, 5EX Band and DJ Alex, followed by The Presidents, Os Compotas and The Flashback Brothers on the 16th and closing with Daddy Jack, Le Plante Mutante and Zé Black. Check their Facebook page for full listings as they have music on practically every night in July and August. The artists are on rotation and include DJ Just, Mad Cats, Martin the Flying Dutchman, Jig Saw Gig, The Links, Stereo Jumble, Nicole Silver Band and BB Kween.
Rei das Praias will be hosting regular sunset/DJ parties throughout the summer on Fridays from 8pm until late, with special themed nights like Rose Caneiros Sunset, dress code pink, on July 13, a vintage Hendricks party on August 3, White Party on the 10th and the green, Mojito party on the 17th to mention a few.
Just over the bridge into Portimão Marina, you’ll find NoSoloÁgua. It’s an absolute haven for club music lovers and beach festival fans. They have live music on in the pool bar and too many parties to mention in the beach bar. Check out their Facebook page to keep up to date with their jam-packed schedule.

NoSoloÁgua

The Lota Cool Market, in Portimão, takes place between the July 18 and 22. This is a five-day event packed with entertainment, art, design, gourmet and street food just at the entrance to Portimão’s riverbank, from the old bridge.

Lota Cool Market (Photo by Município de Portimão)

The Portimão Sardine Festival from August 1-5 is the most famous sardine festival in the Algarve. The once vibrant fishing port used to make its living from these tasty and nutritious fish and celebrates them with a traditional festival of music and entertainment and lots of char-grilled sardines of course.

Portimão Sardine Festival (Photo by Município de Portimão)

Between August 17 and 18, visit the Summer Sound Portimão. This Electro-Music Festival at NosoloÁgua is a day and night event over two days featuring a selection of international DJs, in collaboration with MTV Summer Sessions.
There are also plenty of events for the little ones. Kids of all ages love a pirate, and there are two chances to get into costume and interact with some pirates in the seaside resorts of Senhora da Rocha, between July 20 and 24, and in Alvor between August 24 and 28. Bring your eyepatch along and practice your ‘Ahoy, matey’ call during Pirate Week.
And last, but certainly not least, the Silves Medieval Fair, which usually takes place in mid-August. Probably the biggest and most popular summer festival in the region, this event should definitely be on your list of things to do in the Algarve. The old Moorish capital of the region turns off its lights, hits the switch on all things neon, dresses in medieval garb and celebrates the town’s rich history in a lively and fun fair.
The choice of venues and acts is getting better and better every year, and with a variety ranging from acoustic guitar to full-on electronic music beach festivals, the Algarve is the place to be this summer!

Text: Mia Wallace

Inside visits the beautiful Quinta Dos Santos

Originally from Cape Town, the dos Santos family spent many summer holidays in the Algarve. Three years ago, they began putting into action their plan of living in Portugal, on a farm surrounded by a vineyard, and are now the proud owners of their stunning creation – Quinta Dos Santos, in Sesmarias,
Carvoeiro. The family consists of mother and father Ann and Eugene, two sons, Kyle and Greg, and Kyle’s wife Elayna. Every member of the family is vitally important to the smooth running of their farm, which currently boasts a craft beer brewery, vineyard, tapas bar, art & interiors gallery and accommodation. Eugene’s father was born in Lisbon, and the family feel a strong connection with Portugal.
The property is understated and beautifully designed, without feeling ‘designed’. It looks as if it has been there forever, which is quite an achievement. Ann is a keen designer and a firm believer in good and bad energies. Having used the feng shui principles in all of her design projects, she consulted with a professional, classical feng shui consultant from Lisbon – Sofia Lobo Cera, who assisted her with the project from the very beginning. As a family-owned business serving the community, it was essential to Ann that the work environment be a harmonious, creative, positive and a profitable space.

As you enter the gated driveway, you are immediately struck by a feeling of peace and tranquillity, with the vast yet unobtrusive whitewashed buildings making a perfect border for the growing vines in the vineyard. It is immaculate but feels lived-in at the same time, and the attention to detail is excellent. Entering the main building, there is a welcoming courtyard that acts as the heart of the area, with the Craft Brewery that is encased in glass, enabling visitors to sit and watch head brewer Greg hard at work on his next batch of
Dos Santos Craft Beer, while enjoying a refreshing beer or glass of wine under the sun. To the right, there is the A Esquina (the corner) tapas bar, which has a privileged corner setting, allowing guests to enjoy the lovely view out over the vineyard and garden. Across from A Esquina is the gallery space, O Espaço, where local artists will be invited to display and sell their works alongside an array of delicious, local gourmet and luxury items that will be for sale.
The plot is eight hectares in total, with three hectares of vines and one of olive trees. The wines that will be produced, on site, will be from the Portuguese varietals: Tinto Negra Mole, Touriga Nacional and Sousão reds, along with Malvasia Fina, Arinto, Verdelho, Esgana Cão whites. With an expected 35,000 litres of wine from the fully matured crop, the boutique vineyard should be well stocked in no time. As newbies to the winemaking world, guidance from their Agricultural Engineer/Viticulturist, Aníbal Neto, and Oenologist Mário Andrade was crucial and they have entrusted them in all stages from the preparation and planting of the land and vineyards to the selection and creation of the wines themselves. Both Mário and Aníbal came highly recommended, and after tasting the initial results of the maiden production, the family was pleased with their selection.

The wines from Quinta dos Santos will have two different labels: Escolhido and Tesouro. “As we only planted in May of last year and we do not yet have grapes available for production, a decision was made to establish the brand Escolhido, which means ‘chosen’ in Portuguese,” explained Elayna. “Wines from the local region of the Algarve which were not produced on our farm but that we have personally selected due to their high quality will fall under this label.”
The family is also “producing wine in the Adega Cooperativa de Lagoa from selected grapes harvested from local vineyards under the Escolhido wine label. This will change once our winery is operational. Once we are able to harvest the grapes from our vineyard, we will produce the wine for Tesouro, which means ‘treasure’ in Portuguese”, she revealed. “Tesouro’s production will begin in approximately two years’ time.”
The brewery takes pride of place, on the left side of the courtyard, and you can see the fabulous, shining Italian vats, hard at work producing the craft beer that proudly bears the family name – Dos Santos Craft Beer.
As Greg’s interest in craft beer grew during his apprenticeship three years ago, it was decided that Craft Beer should play an important role in the business. “We will have three commercial beers available, which will be distributed to the market,” he told us. “These will be our Lager, Pilsner and Amber Ale. The same three beers will be on tap in our tapas bar and tasting room, as well as three additional rotating taps for experimental and seasonal beers.”
To make these beers, Greg uses “the German method of production, with no additives or chemicals”. Using a combination of English, German, Czech and American hops, he can brew “up to 9,000 litres per month, depending on demand. Presently myself and my brother work in the brewery, however, in time and with growth, I will be adding people to my team.”

Greg also explained what drew him to become a brewer: “I have always been a more hands-on type of person and not someone who can sit behind a desk from 9 to 5 and do the same thing every day. Living in Cape Town, there was a boom in the craft beer industry, and little craft breweries were opening up all over town. The creativity and science behind the beer were what interested me and how someone can produce such different and amazing flavours in a beer. And last, but not least, the satisfaction that it brings when you see people enjoying the beer you created.”
As for his personal tastes, he says he has “never been one for outrageous beers. I have always enjoyed a clean and simple but different beer. So far the one beer I have tasted which impressed me most was from a brewery in Cape Town called Drifter Brewing Company. The beer was an Ocean Aged Tripel, meaning it was a Belgian-style beer with 10% alcohol which the brewer aged in 75cl bottles. These were placed on the bottom of the ocean floor off the coast of Cape Town for one year. I thought it was a cool thing to do and the flavour the beer offered was fantastic”. His favourite, however, is “the one which brings people together”.
The tapas bar opened in February and has been a big hit so far with front of house manager José Cabrita – who previously worked at Vila Joya and Vila Vita – being an integral member in the preparation phase and taking care of the day to day management of A Esquina. Heading the kitchen, chef Miguel
Lima is passionate and professional, dedicated to creating and re-interpreting traditional dishes in a contemporary way using seasonal ingredients. “I made a decision and accepted the challenge of being a part of a Portuguese-focused project at Quinta dos Santos, to be a team leader and create an amazing experience for all that visit A Esquina,” he says. “Our aim is for our food to represent Portugal in taste and choice, served as petiscos (tapas-style dishes, meant for sharing), to bring fresh, ‘farm to table’ style food to the Algarve to be tasted and enjoyed by our clients.” As for its designation, “it was given this name because it forms the corner of our main building leading from the interior courtyard and overlooking the vineyards”, Elayna explained. “Symbolically it is the cornerstone of our project as it serves to introduce our beer and our wine to the public, accompanied by simple and seasonal dishes. A Esquina is currently dedicated to serving only our beer and eventually our wine, olives and olive oil that we produce on our farm.”

Then there is Casa Terra, a quaint three-bedroom, two-bathroom, self-catering cottage, with a pool overlooking the vineyards. Originally a ‘ruin’ discovered on the property, the casinha (little house) has been sensitively restored to maintain its traditional character. In phase two, the family will introduce some smaller accommodation, suitable for couples and an elegant dining area in the wine cellar.
Quinta dos Santo expect to do both wine and brewery tour s and tastings starting in the summer and is closed on Mondays.

www.quintadossantos.com
www.dossantoscraftbeer.com

Text: Mia Wallace
Photos: Elayna Bartolacci

Exciting new sightings of whales off the Algarve coast

Historically, whale sightings have not been widespread in the Algarve, and you would typically have to travel to the Azores or Madeira for the opportunity to see the spectacular mammals in Portuguese waters. That is why we were so excited when we received the sightings report from local Marine Biologist, tour operators Wildwatch, in Ferragudo, stating that not only did they have a fantastic result with a 98.4% success rate on their cetacean (dolphins, whales and porpoises) trips but they also spotted a record number of whales in the Algarvean waters. In 2017, Wildwatch reported 23 minke whale sightings, of one or two individuals, three fin whale sightings, all with two individuals, and one humpback whale.
With varying diets of microscopic plankton and krill to a significant diversity of fish species, this class of baleen whales does not have teeth but rather a row of filtering plates inside their mouths. They take in a mouthful of water and then push the tongue forward to force it all out through their baleen, catching any prey on the inside of the plates. “Minke whale is the more common whale that can be seen all year. They are resident in the area and up to 10 metres long, making this also the smallest whale spotted in the zone. They are occasionally moved by curiosity and approach the boats, offering excellent opportunities to admire them,” explained the founding partners of Wildwatch, Lucia and André. “When they show up, you can distinguish them by a white band on each pectoral.” They also have a small, low blow, as they start exhaling before they reach the surface, which makes spotting them more difficult.
The fin whale is the second largest whale and second largest animal in the world, and Wildwatch have spotted them passing in migration. They can grow up to 25m long and weigh an enormous 120 tonnes. When spotting them, “we look for asymmetrical colouration on their lower jaw to distinguish them, the right side is white and the left is dark grey or black,” Lucia told us. Unlike the minke, this species’ blow is very tall and can be seen from far. On one occasion, Wildwatch encountered fin whales alongside bottlenose dolphins, which must be quite a treat to watch them swim together and to see how small a 4m dolphin looks beside this peaceful giant.

Minke whale

Orcas are the biggest dolphin on the planet and pass the Algarve coast at least twice a year, following tuna migration routes in and out of the Mediterranean. There was a rare and fairly unusual sighting of orcas and common dolphins that looked very curious with each other. “It is actually quite unusual to see different species together,” Lucia explained. “Moreover, orcas are known as a predator of other dolphins or whales, like the common dolphins, so you can imagine how our clients reacted once we realised what we were witnessing. Thankfully, it was a friendly meeting, as the population of orcas we can see passing by our waters have a refined taste for bluefin tuna.” These massive mammals are better known as killer whales, so called not because they harm humans but because some populations in the world feed on other types of cetacea.
The company also spotted a group of pilot whales for the first time in 2017. Returning from a trip, André saw something in the distance on the surface of the water that looked like birds floating. When he went to investigate, he was surprised by a calm pod of around 30 pilot whales, including a female with a very young calf. It was a beautiful and moving experience for those lucky enough to be there.
Pilot whales, who are also among the largest members of the dolphin family, have one of the longest birth intervals of all cetaceans, between 3 to 5 years. “We do not have enough data and experience to be certain of the species ID, between short-finned or long-finned pilot whales, so we hope to see them more frequently around here,” said André.
From the selection of whales seen, last but certainly not least, a massive, solitary humpback whale was spotted around three nautical miles from the coast. This species can grow up to 17m and they have long, white pectoral fins, up to 5m in length. Famous for their complex and beautiful vocalisations, they are also known as the singing whales. They are also very acrobatic and are frequently seen breaching.

Risso’s dolphin

With sightings of dolphins becoming more and more talked about, we asked Lucia which species are these and why are they here: “Common bottlenose dolphins are often spotted from land and cause mixed emotions with spectators,” she said. “Many people think that the dolphins must be hungry to have come so close to the shore, but these are not offshore, oceanic bottlenose dolphins, they are in fact a coastal ecotype who is more than happy near land.” The only danger they pose to themselves is that their curious nature will get them tangled up in the busy boating lane. “Maybe due to this, the oceanic ecotype appears to be more interested in approaching our boat, and sometimes they spot us and join us before we spot them,” she explained.
The largest families in the toothed cetacean group are the dolphins. Mysterious creatures like the Risso’s dolphin, the acrobatic striped dolphin, and of course the two star species – common bottlenose dolphins, made famous by the movie Flipper, and the sociable short-beaked common dolphins – would be the obvious ones but what might surprise you is that orcas and pilot whales, which we could assume to be whales, are actually a part of this dolphin family.
Recently, there have been more sightings of the almost white-coloured Risso’s dolphins, slow swimmers feeding on octopus, cuttlefish and squid. Unfortunately, striped dolphins sightings were less frequent. In fact, Wildwatch expects to see this acrobatic, oceanic dolphin three, four, or five times a year, but last year they only saw them once.
Having a team of Marine biologists in the company is one of the reasons Wildwatch stand out, and you can book a trip with them or find out more via www.wildwatch.pt

Common dolphins

Text: Mia Wallace
Photos: Wildwatch

Discovering the historical and gastronomic treasures of Silves

When friends Joana Cabrita and António Guerreiro left University to travel to far away lands and follow their professional careers in international television production, arts and branding, they never imagined being back in Faro in 2017 and operating Eating Algarve Tours. Both passionate about culture, tradition and gastronomy, they decided to return to their homeland and follow their hearts.

“We love Portugal and missed so many things when we were abroad,” Joana told us. “While chatting one day, I came up with the idea to introduce the real taste of Portugal to other cultures and thought that as we are both such passionate foodies and history geeks, a food and culture tour could be the perfect thing for us to do, and from his LA base, António was very quick to agree”.

The pair headed back to Portugal and began putting their company together. They met with local historians, visited many establishments and handpicked authentic producers, service providers and locations for their tours.

We opted for the Arade Food Tour and met the lovely Joana at the foot of the Roman bridge in Silves, where the tour began with a brief introduction to the itinerary and we were presented with a lovely little souvenir, an Eating Algarve Tours book, with blank pages for taking notes, local recipes on the back and the company’s business card. Joana took this chance to inform us that there would be no Port Wine or pastéis de nata on this tour, as lovely as they both are, since they’re not indigenous products of the Algarve and therefore she feels that they would have no place in this tour.

Our tour started at 11am and began with a spot of something very Algarvean, orange picking. We harvested our oranges and headed inside to prepare our fresh orange juice, which is very hard to beat when it comes to a taste of the Algarve. After a refreshing start, we headed over to the market, where we got to grips with some of the local produce, sampled an excellent variety of liqueurs, met the people who make it all happen and hung out in a local bar, feasting on a bifana (pork sandwich). Fuelled and ready to take on the steep cobbled streets of Silves, we visited some fascinating historical monuments, museums and the castle, where Joana impressed us with her incredibly well-researched facts.

Silves can be considerably warmer than the coast and difficult to navigate, but fortunately, part of the tour takes you into a stunning, air-conditioned, traditional café where you can sample some delicious teas and native sweets, while chatting about the experience thus far. The café is beautifully decorated  with traditional tiles, pottery and furnishings, and serves some of the best ice tea, cakes and homemade popsicles around.

We found this spot gave us a great opportunity to pick Joana’s brain about the area and the cuisine in general, and you’ll find that she is only too happy to share her wealth of knowledge with you in her very eloquent way.

With our sugar levels back in the right place, we carried on for a little bit more culture and a leisurely walk around Silves, appreciating the ancient capital and enjoying the energy of the old town, before heading for lunch in a tavern specialised in all things Algarvean or, at the very least, Portuguese, including a good selection of craft beers.

Our menu, complements of the tour, consisted of a selection of petiscos (tapas), a glass of good quality, crisp, Algarve white wine and the pièce de résistance, an octopus and sweet potato Cataplana. Over lunch we chatted with Joana, who continued to deliver factual and informative anecdotes throughout the lunch, including a virtual tour of the vineyard where the wine was produced, along with some technical information about the grapes and a description of each ingredient used in the dishes that we enjoyed at the tavern. With the local dessert, coffee and digestive taken care of, the 5-hour tour came to an end.

Eating Algarve Tours is based in Faro and currently offers three different tours, with more in the pipeline. Groups of up to 12 people work best for the food tours and the price is €69 per person without transport. If you’d like to arrange something special to get you to Silves and back, try Algarve Classic Tours VW Camper van.

To find out more visit:  www.eatingalgarvetours.com  and  www.algarveclassictours.com

Text & Photos: Mia Wallace

Photographer Tim Motion documented the Algarve during the ´60s and ´70s

London-based photographer Tim Motion documented the Algarve, where he lived, in the ‘60s and ‘70s. A fascinating exhibition of his photographs, entitled ‘ALGARVE 63’, is on display at the Parque Municipal das Fontes de Estômbar (Lagoa), until September 16. In addition to this, a photobook featuring his works will be on sale at the exhibition (€30) and is due to be available online too. Here he reflects on his time in an Algarve that has since changed so dramatically.

I arrived to stay in Carvoeiro on a stormy night in December 1962. The rainwater was rushing like a river down the steep street, past the green house overlooking the beach. This was my new home and I was very happy.

The house consisted of five rooms on the first floor including the kitchen, with bare boards and almost no furniture except two beds with mattresses stuffed with dried maize leaves – a haven for various forms of wildlife. There was a ‘bathroom’ with a cement floor, a non-flushing loo, a washbasin with a tiny mirror hooked to the wall, and a bucket. The bucket, attached to a rope, was for drawing water from the cisterna in the small yard outside, a dampening chore in rainy weather. The village did not have mains water. For hot water there was a large aluminium saucepan on the Calor gas stove. ‘What more do you need,’ I said, besides which the month’s rent was less than that for a week in one grimy room in London with a shared bathroom.

The day after my arrival I looked out of the window to see the entire village square from the beach to the main street under six feet of blown spume from the stormy sea. This was real weather!

There were only six foreigners in the village. The Irish painter Patrick Swift, his wife Oonagh and two daughters Kate and Julie, Claude Bourgier, a French collector of gemstones and budding poet, and his wife Marie, a French-Canadian painter. David Wight, the South African poet, was visiting. He and Swift were later to propose the idea of a book on the Algarve to a publisher in London.

With such a limited pool for social life, any new arrival, even if staying only for a day or two, was invited to dinner, welcomed with quantities of Lagoa wine, Portuguese brandy and Irish whiskey, interrogated, argued with, examined, and entertained with Gaelic songs and recordings of Amália Rodrigues and Alfredo Marceneiro.

The test, which is what it was, a kind of social initiation, was carried out with stringent debate, great wit and good humour. Superficial modishness and pretension were swept aside. For me, a rather naïve lad with a very English upbringing, it was a revelation. Some passed the test, some did not; I am glad to say that with my hard head we drank each other under the table. I was welcomed into the fold.

Fish were auctioned most days on the beach, a short walk from my charcoal grill. Days were spent painting, walking in the landscape, visiting other villages and vineyards. Wine tasting was an integral part of daily life. There was no shortage of bars in Carvoeiro, as the saying was: “Taberna sim, taberna não” meaning every other door was a fisherman’s bar.

The locals welcomed us with curiosity and friendship, and tales of hard times in the past. These were places we frequented often and, with my desire to learn Portuguese, resulted in my acquiring a marked ‘Algarvian’ accent. This caused great amusement on my visits to Lisbon, especially as most Lisbonese dismissed Algarve as being part of North Africa!

There was also the ‘Sociedade’, which was a community hall and bar where Saturday night dances were held. These were formal affairs overseen by mothers and aunts in black at one  end, monitoring their daughters in new dresses and the testosterone – filled youths at the other end in their best suits.

The accordionist played tangos and quicksteps, and the swishing sound of shoes across the sawdust-sprinkled floor was a prelude to the mating game. This was not too far removed from the society balls at Grosvenor House in London during

The Debutante Season where eligible young men were listed and assessed.

David Wright returned the next year and work began on the book Algarve – a portrait and a guide. Naturally, as I had a car and a camera, I had a part to play.

The truth is, if I had not been encouraged by Patrick Swift, the selection of photographs for “ALGARVE 63” would not  exist as they do. We embarked on this opportunity to observe and record life in Algarve with avid enthusiasm, visiting every church, chapel, taberna, restaurant, fishing port, pottery and local market we could find, communicating with local people.

For me the most exciting and rewarding events, photographically, were the big annual animal fairs at Tavira, Faro and Castro Verde (Alentejo). Oxen, mules, horses, donkeys and cattle were bartered, dominated by the large and picturesque gipsy community. After a long hot day in the dust, we would sit in the semi darkness at a small candle-lit table behind the stalls, demolishing a bottle of medronho, the lethal liquor distilled from arbutus berries.

Life continued in similar vein, with house building and marriage, children and occasional trips back to London and Dublin, until April 1967 when, after a two-year preparation,

I opened a jazz bar or, as the operating licence stated, ‘taberna with music’. There was some difficulty in categorising my establishment as it did not fall within the three basic categories then existent in Portugal – tabernas, Casinos, or what were euphemistically referred to as ‘Dancings’. To describe the whole process of its formation would require another article and the subsequent lifestyle and events, a book.

Suffice it to say that ‘Sobe-e-Desce’ was born and flourished as a disco and jazz club, with barely controlled chaos, fame and excitement for eight years. It was visited by international and local musicians, denizens of the night and high society from Lisbon and Porto, British pop stars, a Duke or two, crazy Brazilians, with after-hours dawn or moonlit swimming on Centianes beach. It was a life far removed from the tranquillity of painting and walking in the landscape.

Text & Photos: Tim Motion

A new wave of camper van tourists arrives in the Algarve

The freedom of touring around and finding the perfect spot to spend the night has always been very attractive to me, so I was thrilled to come across a company called Soul Campers, here in the Algarve, who offered exactly what I was looking for. Not being a fan of being caught short or camping in general, popping a tent in the back of the car has never had much appeal but having a fully self-contained mobile home sounded like my idea of heaven.

I booked a campervan that can accommodate four for my husband and I via the company’s website and was really pleased to find that they also hire out a number of useful items such as heaters, collapsible tables and chairs, surfboards and full sets of linen (ideal for people coming straight from the airport).

We set off to São Brás de Alportel to pick up our home for the weekend and have a chat with Tânia and Pedro about their fun, new venture.

Soul Campers started in 2015, and is run by husband and wife Pedro and Tânia Guerreiro. The couple started with four purpose built vans and, due to popular demand, they are now converting vans into campers onsite and will be doubling their fleet this year to have eight.

Tânia told us “Pedro and I used to live in Lisbon and the idea of starting the company came after a long trip along the coast of Spain and Portugal with our old Mercedes wagon from 1991, equipped with only a mattress in the back and some camping material. Both of our childhoods were linked to nature and the sea and for some time we longed to live and to have an activity that would allow us this connection. Our grandparents are from the Algarve where we have always been vacationing, hence also the choice of location.”

The campervans on offer are a long way off from the old Mercedes that the couple had their road trip in, all those years ago. They are fully equipped with a fitted double bed, a shower room with a chemical toilet, a little kitchenette with a fridge, stove, crockery and everything you might need to prepare and eat a small meal aboard. There is electricity, running water, power sockets, USB chargers, a comfortable seating/dining space for four people and all of the windows are fitted with retractable mosquito nets and black-out curtains. They really have thought of everything to ensure comfort and have even gone as far as to insulate the campers with one of Portugal’s biggest resources: cork.

We set off on our road trip and were very pleased to find that the campervan was actually very easy to drive with light steering and it was not too big so we didn’t feel like a menace on the road.

Heading inland, the landscape changes so much that you could imagine you were in Central America. The sleepy villages and wildlife are a real treat to observe and a total contrast to the coastal areas.

We decided to partake in a spot of “Wild Camping” which is actually still legal in Portugal. The most important thing to be aware of is that just like any other vehicle on the road, we must read the signs and abide by them. There are a few spots dotted around that have a no campervans sign and be sure to take heed, as not doing so will result in fines and potentially an unwelcome knock on your door at 2am or thereabouts to tell you to move on.

Our trip took us up to Vila Nova de Milfontes and we stopped at every beach along the stunningly beautiful west coast on the way back down to our beachfront spot in Sagres, where we spent the night. On the second day, we continued to Lagos for lunch, with a leisurely drive back towards Carvoeiro and back inland to enjoy some time around Silves and the Dam.

There are plenty of campsites for people who prefer to use them and on longer trips they would be very helpful to refill the water tank and meet some likeminded people but for us, the beauty of this trip was that we had no real plan when we started off. We just followed the coast and were blown away by the outstanding beauty that was bountiful.

Tânia concluded “We believe that more than campervan rental, we offer the possibility to live unique and genuine experiences with total freedom, allowing exploration of the different landscapes and cultures. The new vans will have solar power, but for now we can only dream of the future vans that worked on renewable energy and not oil.”

www.soulcampers.com.pt

Text: Mia Wallace
Photos: Mia Wallace & Soul Campers

A seascape of grottoes, there´s more to see from the sea

It’s a common human pastime to sit by water and enjoy its peaceful motion and the calming reflections. Inside Carvoeiro thought it was about time to get out of our comfort zone and join one of the local, beautiful seacave kayak tours. Egged on by images of the now world-famous cave in Benagil, we set ourselves the challenge of finding other less known secret spots.

The first trip we took in this series was the two-hour kayak trip with Wildwatch in Ferragudo. We embarked the RIB at Ferragudo harbour with our marine biologist guides for a lovely, mini-coastal cruise west past Portimão, Praia da Rocha and Praia do Vau, stopping at Praia de João de Arens, where we placed our kayaks into the sea and took off in group formation.

It was lovely to see families, couples and friends of all ages enjoying the low- impact, sightseeing activity together. Owner André Dias told us: “This kayak tour is perfect for anyone really, as we are always close by with the boat and you have a guide in the tour with you, so if people get tired, it’s not a problem. We can stop for a while and just float through the rock formations or even return to the boat where you can enjoy sunbathing, refresh yourself with a dip in the crystal blue sea and a cool drink.”

The rock formations around Praia de João de Arens are stunning and easy to navigate. It’s a special sensation to actually go inside the caves and be able to reach otherwise inaccessible beaches. André explained: “It’s a pretty unique experience in which you can admire, up close, the beauty of the coast and unravel the mysteries of caves and beaches inaccessible by land. This is our beginners’ level – not too demanding so that all the family can enjoy the beautiful landscapes and have lots of fun!”

Wildwatch also has a three-hour kayak tour that is a little more challenging and leaves around 8.30am, passing the famous beaches of Praia Grande, Caneiros, Paraiso, Carvoeiro, Centianes and then into the very popular Benagil Cave to enjoy the calm before the storm when the boat loads of visitors start to arrive after 9am.

With Benagil ticked off the to-do list early, the group heads east and can cover as many as two nautical miles as far as Senhora da Rocha, depending on the group’s pace and strength; this is definitely for the more experienced kayaker. Cliff and rock formations are spectacular across the whole of the Algarve coast, but particularly so in this zone, with so many variations and small, secret beaches you would never have known existed. As with the two-hour tour, the boat is never far away and your knowledgeable guide will keep with your pace to ensure you have an enjoyable, informed and safe adventure. The kayak tours end with a coastal boat trip back to base at Ferragudo where the team offers some quick refreshment before waving you off to enjoy the rest of your day. There are a few things that make Wildwatch stand out in their field including taking videos of the experience and later emailing them to clients – a lovely keepsake and something to look forward to in your inbox when your holiday is a distant memory.

Wildwatch also offers a one-hour cave trip that, for the less active, doesn’t require leaving the comfort of the boat; wonderful dolphin-spotting trips; coastal cruises; snorkeling trips and full-day sailing trips.

Wildwatch charges €35 for the two-hour tour and €55 for the three-hour tour | www.wildwatch.pt

Text: Mia Wallace | Photo: Anabela Gaspar & Wildwatch (Benagil cave)

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Recreating the Riva in the Docks of Portimão

David Pearce is a well-known artist, restaurateur and boat builder in the quaint fishing village of Ferragudo. He has lived in the area since the mid 1980s, following a 10-year stint of sailing around the world, exploring his two passions: sailing and painting.

Originally from Sussex, where his father was a partner in a shipyard and would thrust sandpaper into his young hands every day after school, David grew up with some very useful skill sets that have navigated him towards his current project.

Last summer, a Swiss doctor was passing by his waterfront workshop. The small wooden Portuguese fishing boat for sale outside piqued his interest. He popped his head in the doorway and casually asked if David would be capable of building his “dream boat” for him.

Never one to shy away from a challenge, David’s immediate reaction was: “why not?”

David and the doctor began to draw up plans for the 7-metre mahogany replica of the Italian classic, the Riva. This elegant wooden launch first leapt to fame when it appeared in the James Bond movies of the mid 1960s, remaining an object of desire ever since. With an arrangement that suited them both, the doctor headed back to Switzerland and David began the mammoth task of building a handcrafted boat.

It quickly became apparent that his little boat yard in Ferragudo wouldn’t be able to cope with a hull of such dimensions, so he packed up and moved into larger premises, in Portimão dockyard.

With the plans finalised and the mahogany ordered, David began to find local artisans and boat fitters, who could help him achieve the high quality of upholstery, steering wheel, instruments, windscreen and hood needed to complement his client’s Italian replica. Lady Luck was on his side as Portimão docks are brimming with master craftsmen and women, who were able to facilitate his bespoke requirements.

Construction began in September 2015. With his new workshop full of mahogany, David laid out the plans and the hull started to take shape after countless man-hours of sanding and varnishing.

The impressive hull fills the central area of the workshop. Its sheer size meant that David had to call upon some help from his fellow dockland workers. “Although I normally work alone, this was just impossible. The great thing about being located at the docks is that I had able volunteers to hand, who could help. It took ten of us to perform the mammoth task of flipping the boat. The dockyard director was even hanging from a beam, hoisting the structure,” David explained, laughing.

“All of the materials are top quality and I have sourced everything I could locally, although there are always specialty varnishes and such like that have to be imported. It’s imperative that the finish is exceptional, just like the original,” David explained.

With everything going along swimmingly, the 250-horsepower Mercruiser engine was delivered. The engine will propel the boat at around 40 knots, which is a very decent speed, in anyone’s book.

The shape of the boat is magnificent and iconic. The woodwork and finishes are of a fantastically high quality and astoundingly beautiful.

The boat will be tested around Portimão soon, before being shipped off to meet her very lucky owner on the Swiss Riveira, on Lake Lausanne, where she is sure to turn a few heads!

When we visited the workshop the boat was nearly finished. As such, the build took just under a year, from start to finish. David will soon be ready to take on new projects, after a short and very well-deserved break in the lovely Algarve. Visitors are very welcome at his workshop, located just after Angel Pilot at Portimão docks.

https://www.facebook.com/boatmaker2016/

Text Mia Wallace

Photos Mia Wallace

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Dutch entrepreneur Erik de Vlieger talks about his real estate ventures.

Famous back in his native Holland for being the number one radio chat show host and television personality, 56 year old Erik de Vlieger is set to become one of the Algarve’s biggest entrepreneurs. His lively, energetic and inquisitive nature, not only make him a great entrepreneur, but also the ideal candidate to inject some much-needed innovation into Carvoeiro’s real estate scene.

He has acquired a wealth of experience throughout his diverse career, which he initiated in the family’s sewing machine business. He then went on to conquer the Dutch media and invested in real estate in several European countries. A natural extrovert, he talks with great ease, but also expresses himself through art, his favourite hobby being painting on large canvases.

As soon as we meet him it’s easy to understand why he is the most famous and controversial radio host in Holland. Not afraid of voicing his opinions, he has almost been suspended from the show on several occasions. But, although he describes himself as a clown, he is a serious businessman. “I’m a Dutch businessman, we are known for our tough negotiation skills,” he says. He’s an entrepreneurial chameleon, adapting his skills and know-how to every new business opportunity.

Investing in Portugal was a good choice for him, “It’s so much cheaper than the rest of Europe,” he insists. And, to top it all, he fell in love with the Algarve, “with its people and their friendliness.” According to Erik, “life in Holland is so hard, here everything feels much lighter”. He first came to Portugal in 1996, to view a piece of land close to Lagos, part of the “Match Algarve” project, a large sporting facility, where professional football teams would come to train. In addition to football pitches, facilities for other sports, such as rugby, tennis and footgolf had also been planned.

Sadly the project never took off, due to trouble in obtaining licences. This year, 20 years on, the paperwork has finally been approved and the project may soon see the light of day, becoming a great asset for the Algarve. “This will not only attract professional football teams during the high season but also amateurs off peak, helping with the region’s seasonality,” he claims.

Erik doesn’t like to waste time and needs to keep himself busy, ensuring that his businesses are profitable. The first person in the office every morning, he sets an example for his hard-working staff. At the moment he seems to have a finger in every pie. Besides “Match Algarve” he is also involved in the rehabilitation of the Mabor building, in the centre of Portimão. But his biggest project is the Carvoeiro Club Group, which he is rapidly expanding, together with his partner and friend Andreas Stocker, whom he met 10 years ago, when de Vlieger bought Stocker’s house in Carvoeiro. “I don’t believe in working with friends, it can be dangerous and ruin a relationship, but with Andy it’s different,” says de Vlieger.

Last November they bought the Quinta do Paraíso resort, adding it to their already impressive portfolio of Carvoeiro Clube, Monte Carvoeiro, Algarve Clube Atlantico, Presa de Moura, Monte Dourado resorts and the real estate company Quinta da Palmeira. And when the time came to choose the right managing director for the group, they didn’t have to look far. Having managed Quinta do Paraíso for more than 20 years, Swiss-born Patricia Bürer was the obvious choice.

Carvoeiro Club already offers a great choice of services, ranging from property administration to gardening and even tax and rental assistance. With almost 200 employees and more than 300 managed properties in six different holiday resorts and three large servicing agreements in resorts in the area of Carvoeiro, the Carvoeiro Clube Group is the largest tourism enterprise in the Carvoeiro-Lagoa area.

But that’s not enough for de Vlieger, who is always one step ahead, planning the next expansion. “The plan is to take over and manage more tourist developments,” he says. Not only in the Carvoeiro area, but also towards Armação de Pêra, Ferragudo, Portimão and even Lagos. “We want to become the biggest resort in the Algarve!”

Text Alexandra Stilwell

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The strawberry tree is the star of two new projects being developed in the Western Algarve.

An iconic calling card for Monchique, medronho brandy is known far beyond the hills that witness its distillation. Medronho is made from the fuzzy, yellowish-red berries of the strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo, which, despite the name, is actually a bush, indigenous to Portugal and commonly found in the centre of the country, as well as in the Algarve. Medronho manufacture was once a family affair, with small distilleries all across the Monchique area producing this powerful, clear firewater. However, due to strict government regulations and the small dimension of the distilleries, there has never been a fully-fledged medronho industry. Until now, that is: located in the secluded rural landscape of Bensafrim and covering a whopping 271 hectares, Corte Velada is a large-scale project focused on producing and selling high-quality strawberry trees and berries, not only for the production of brandy, but mainly as a fruit and ornamental plant.

With €6mn invested thus far, this innovative project began back in 2009, the brainchild of a Norwegian family, who wanted to give something back to the Algarve, a region they have been visiting for years. Besides medronho production, plans for Corte Velada include a four-star hotel, which will join the eight dams and 14 kilometres of nature trails already constructed.

But for now, Ricardo Jacinto, the project’s director and head researcher, has his eyes set on the medronho berries. The first step involved improving the quality of the strawberry trees, to ensure the project’s sustainability. How was this achieved? By cloning only the best trees, to maximise production. With the help of a state-of-the-art greenhouse, a unique prototype with the flashy price tag of €500,000, the team at Corte Velada is creating cloned medronho bushes, which start producing fruit in a shorter period of time and are able to adapt to different climates. “This development process has been done for years to other fruit trees, but somehow nobody’s ever done it with the strawberry tree,” says Ricardo Jacinto. These new and improved strawberry trees can be sold to farmers worldwide, who wish to establish their own plantations, whilst the berries can be sold directly to other industries, such as the beauty, pharmaceutical and food industries, which will make the most of their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties to create cosmetic products, medicines or healthy snacks. The surplus berries will be used to make brandy and the construction of an on-site distillery is set to take place in the next months. “We’ve always set our sights on being self-sufficient, and the distillery is part of that vision,” explains the director.

A very different entity that is also committed to promoting these small berries is the parish council of Marmelete, a small village with about 600 inhabitants, located close to Monchique. “We wanted to attract visitors to our municipality but we didn’t have many tourist attractions, and the ones we had were unfortunately under-promoted,” says young parish president Marta Martins. Her solution was simple: to create a place where medronho and its rich history would take centre stage. The result was the opening of the Casa do Medronho de Marmelete (Marmelete House of Medronho) last October, following the conversion of the parish’s old garage into a fully working distillery. Whilst the works took less than a year to complete, the president said she had to cut through a lot of red tape to see the project come to life, as it’s rather unusual for a parish council to have a working community distillery.

“There was a lot of field work involved and we visited many distilleries and old cellars,” she explains. The purpose of such visits was to collect information and ideas, making the Casa do Medronho a faithful replica of a traditional distillery, from its taipa (rammed earth) walls to its vital caldeira (boiler).

At the Casa, visitors can learn more about the production process, view a collection of traditional utensils, taste local products such as sausages, sweets and, of course, medronho or melosa (which combines medronho brandy and honey), or even distil their own medronho (by appointment only). The local council parish has also created a Medronho Roadmap, which includes nine local licensed distilleries open for visits, which work in partnership with the Casa to offer a few workshops, such as the medronho berry picking workshop. As part of the activity, visitors help pick the fruit and then enjoy a relaxed lunch in the countryside. The daughter of a medronho distiller, Marta Martins stresses that much of the appeal of medronho making lies exactly in its social side, as people use it as an excuse to gather around the table and drink. “We aim to turn these distilleries into local tourist attractions, as the landscape around them is beautiful and the whole process couldn’t be more authentic.”

The Casa do Medronho de Marmelete is open Monday to Friday, from 9am – 12.30pm and 2pm – 5pm. Group visits take place at weekends by appointment (Tel: 282 955 121 info@casadomedronho.com). Ticket prices start at €1.

Text Ana Tavares

Photos 1000olhos.pt & Ana Varela

[inpost_galleria thumb_width=”175″ thumb_height=”175″ post_id=”1499″ thumb_margin_left=”3″ thumb_margin_bottom=”2″ thumb_border_radius=”2″ thumb_shadow=”0 1px 4px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2)” id=”” random=”0″ group=”0″ border=”” show_in_popup=”0″ album_cover=”” album_cover_width=”200″ album_cover_height=”200″ popup_width=”800″ popup_max_height=”600″ popup_title=”Gallery” type=”yoxview” sc_id=”sc1459775609280″]Tasty Taverns

Portimão was once a vibrant city, full of energy and the hustle and bustle that you’d expect from a town with a fishing port. Thankfully, with the hard work and foresight of a few, there are definitely signs that things are heading back in that direction.

A new wave of taverns is popping up all over Portimão city centre and luckily all within walking distance of each other. Although based on the old-style taverns of days gone by, the new taverns are sympathetically designed to incorporate the best from both new and old-world materials and ambience.

We took this opportunity to sample what they have to offer over a few visits.

Walking from the old bridge that takes you over Portimão harbour, the first tavern that you come across is the very popular, family-run Taberna da Maré. The downstairs area is actually more a restaurant than a tavern, but upstairs you’ll find Tasca Almaredo, a great bar setting, where you can kick back, enjoy the atmosphere and some live music.

Heading towards Portimão, Tasca Chique Dona Benta is just a stone’s throw away. Occupying a street corner, this small, modest eatery boasts a tasty homemade tapas menu, which includes a version of Oporto’s famous snack, the “Francesinha”.

Next along the route, we come to Velocity Café, located on a side street next to the new waterfront development. Very humble and discreet from the outside, inside is a treasure trove of historical artefacts, joined by an art gallery, an internal terrace, a steakhouse restaurant and bicycles galore.

Lovingly restored by Manuel Matos, who opened the doors in June 2014, Velocity Café is a fitting tribute to its previous tenant, English artist Michael Tannock, who still exhibits and maintains a small studio on site. History lovers will appreciate the attention to detail Manuel has employed when restoring this very important building. He even has the key to the original safe, which contains agricultural logbooks from the 1800s.

Our next stop is the more fashionable and most-recently opened “taberna” on our route – Casa da Tocha. Old and new are harmoniously paired in this grand old bar. The owners have painstakingly renovated the original tiles and every inch of the venue they could, to create a very welcoming atmosphere, which is complemented by a hand-crafted bar area (made by Alambre), retro seating and a great pop-up shop area, stocking Portuguese-made items ranging from lightshades to artisan beers. The house drink is vermouth, but they also have some excellent wines etc., and the tapas menu constantly changes, depending on the season.

The next stop is Taberna Cool 33, located on a side street between Rua Direita and the Praça da República. Adorned with a large bougainvillea, at the entrance, once inside you find an inner courtyard, surrounded by small, cosy rooms, with a bar area and a wine bar. Tiago has been running the bar for some time now and has a regular clientele, who enjoy his hospitality and varied menu, which now includes lunch. The famous Wednesday “after-work” DJ session is complemented by drink and food promotions to break up the week.

Just around the corner is Tasca Porta Velha. Owner Luís Coelho is always around, in fact he lives here. Originally meant to be his home, and nothing more, after friends insisted that the space would make a wonderful bar, he decided to take their advice and began collecting bric-a-brac and upcycling unwanted items to create this special, eclectic setting. Serving homemade Portuguese dishes, bear in mind that this “tasca” only opens at 10.00 pm.

Selling canned fish and much more besides, Maria do Mar, on the Rua Direita, has reintroduced canned fish to Portimão, once a hub of the canning industry. Benefitting from the recent image overhaul enjoyed by canned fish, Maria do Mar uses sardines etc. as a great tapas topping, serving them with liquid refreshment, or selling them in their delightful retro packaging.

The area around the Rua Dr. José Joaquim Nunes has witnessed the arrival of a number of new taverns, including Taberna de Portimão, Tasc’alado and TasCa, all adhering to the same winning formula, using local material to transform old buildings and local produce to whet our appetites.

Restaurante Lusana has been around for years, but has now opened a lovely little “wine bar” area at the end of the restaurant, where you can enjoy the specialities of the house with some beautiful Portuguese wines.

Our last stop on this very enjoyable trip around Portimão takes us back to the riverside and to a large, stone-clad tavern known as Tapa Latina. With a large central bar, tapas on display and a sunny terrace, it’s the perfect place to end our tour. There’s no better way to discover the city than sampling the tasty titbits it has to offer.

1 – Taberna da Maré (13h00-15h00; 19h00-23h00 – Closed on Monday) – Travessa da Barca, 9

2 – Tasca Almareado (20h00-02h00 – Closed on Monday) – Travessa da Barca, 18

3 – Tasca Chique Dona Benta (12h00-24h00) – Rua da Barca, 1

4 – Velocity Café (18h00-24h00 – Closed on Monday – Rua Stª Isabel, 5

5 – Casa da Tocha (12h00-24h00 – Closed on Sunday) – Rua Sr.ª da Tocha, 24

6– Taberna Cool 33 (Monday – Saturday 12-3 & 6-late) – Rua João Anes, 33

7– Tasca Porta Velha (Monday – Saturday 22 til 04) Travessa Manuel Dias Barão, 3

8– Maria do Mar (11h00-21h00 – Closed on Sunday) – Rua Direita, 89

9– Taberna de Portimão (12h00-02h00) – Rua Damião Faria e Castro, 6

10 – Tasc’alado (16h00-01h00 Closed on Monday) – Rua Dr. José Joaquim Nunes, 13

11- Lusana – Rua Dr. José Joaquim Nunes, n.º 6 (11.30 – 23.00 – Closed on Sunday)

12– TasCá (12h00-01h00) – Rua Júdice Biker, 24

13 – Tapa Latina (12h00-22h00 – Closed on Wednesday) – Largo do Dique, 16

Text Mia Wallace

Photos Sara Alves

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As you enter the outer limits of Praia do Carvoeiro, you may notice a brightly painted electricity box to your left, depicting a typical Algarve chimney, with the obligatory bright blue sky as a background. This is the first of 55 electricity boxes (phase one) found along Rua do Barranco and Rua dos Pescadores and the brainchild of local artists Phil Francis and Hélder José.

Phil, who is affectionately known as “Phil da Bife”, has lived in Carvoeiro for 27 years and is currently training to become a tattoo artist in a local parlour. Phil stumbled across a similar project when visiting the city of Oporto, in 2014, where he was impressed by how the brightly-coloured boxes provided a stark contrast to the old buildings. Upon his return, he suggested to his friend Hélder José that they could do something similar in Carvoeiro. Instantly sold on the idea, Hélder, aka Bamby, runs his own company specialising in art décor and graphic design and was also involved in creating the colourful mural near the Casa Manuel Teixeira Gomes, in Portimão. The two artists approached Carvoeiro parish council at the end of 2014. The mayor was so enthusiastic about their idea that it was practically given the go-ahead on the spot, with funds provided by the parish and Lagoa Municipal Council.

The last hurdle they faced was obtaining permission from the owner of the boxes – the local electricity authority. Permission was eventually granted in 2015, when Phil and Hélder could finally get to work on transforming the boxes. Originally grey and often vandalised or neglected, the electricity boxes are now adorned with pictures of the local area and people who have left their mark here.

The theme of the project is ‘Vida Algarvia’ (Algarve Life) and encompasses a range of subjects, including views, architecture, flora and fauna, religious artefacts, decorative pieces and local characters. Some of the paintings are also based on stunning photos of Carvoeiro taken from ‘Ainda, e Sempre, o Mar’ (Now, and Always, the Sea), a book by local researcher João Vasco Reis.

Portraits of fishermen, such as “João Peludo” (Hairy João), or other charismatic locals, such as “Aunt Olympia”, also sourced from the book, can be admired on the boxes as you walk around the village. Phil and Hélder would love to know who these old characters are.

“I was a bit concerned that some of the older locals might not like the idea, but the feedback has been very positive,” Phil tells us. Bamby is also delighted by the success of the initiative. “Better than being plastered with political posters, the boxes become works of art for everyone to admire,” he enthuses.

The artists also chose some nostalgic images of the town. “The Nivea balloon was an old meeting point on Carvoeiro beach; it brings back lots of memories,” Phil recalls.

Phil tells us how they made a stencil of the Portuguese Scouts logo and customised a tile design, which they then embellished with sea horses, beside the beach. This is one of Phil’s favourites and a fitting tribute to João Vasco Reis, the leader of the local scout troop, of which his daughters are members.

Phase 2 was approved early 2016 and involves the remaining 37 electricity boxes within the parish limits.

Photos of the artwork can also be found on social networks under the hashtag #carvoeiroboxes.

Text Mia Wallace

Photos Dave Sheldrake

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A haven of wellness in Portimão, Villa Prana combines a guesthouse, yoga and Pilates classes, and several other therapies in a truly holistic project.

Sílvia Duarte and David Coelho are tired but happy. Like most new parents, they are sleep-deprived and have been working long hours looking after their new arrival. But in their case, the baby is a huge villa in Portimão. The couple have been busy with their new guesthouse and therapy centre, fittingly called Villa Prana – Guesthouse & Therapies. Prana is a Sanskrit word meaning “life force”, and it would fair to say that the couple have been investing much of their own vital energy into this project.

So far, it seems to have paid off. Opened in late January, Villa Prana had to expand its timetable after only one month in operation, as some of its classes were getting crowded. This is well-deserved recognition for the couple, but especially for Sílvia, who has earned somewhat of a reputation as a yoga and Pilates teacher at the CLCC in Portimão. “I was comfortable and loved my job, but if it weren’t for David, I would never have left it,” admits the petite hazel-eyed teacher, who married David, now her business partner, two years ago, in India.

Making the most of her extensive background in fitness and yoga instruction, but also of the couple’s previous experience in hospitality (both worked in large hotel groups), Villa Prana is a project that combines two separate, yet complementary businesses: a guesthouse, which opened in March and is located on the building’s first floor; and a fully-fledged therapy centre, offering yoga and Pilates classes, various therapies (with a focus on Ayurveda) and workshops. When the two sides join forces, the result is a wide range of wellness retreats.

A truly relaxing haven amidst the hustle and bustle of Portimão’s centre, Villa Prana’s guesthouse comprises five bedrooms, with a total of 18 beds. The rooms are comfy and bright, with spacious lockers and plenty of outdoor space for sunbathing, creating a cosy and welcoming atmosphere. Operating as an independent guesthouse, the accommodation will be used primarily for retreats in the low season, with regular guests having the option to book a therapy or attend a class downstairs on request.

The therapy centre, on the other hand, “aims to promote health and well-being within the community”, explains Sílvia. With an experienced team of therapists offering everything from meditation, acupuncture and macrobiotic consultations to Ayurveda, Bowen Technique, Feng Shui, body psychotherapy and a selection of massage styles, the centre also hosts workshops most Saturdays, which are available on a donation basis, or at affordable prices. “We’ve had Ayurveda and meditation lectures, macrobiotic workshops, gestational well-being master classes and yoga for parents and children, amongst others,” lists David, who is also close to completing his oriental therapies course. “This way our therapists can explain to people what they do, and if clients are interested, they can book an appointment,” adds Sílvia.

Besides her busy schedule of yoga and Pilates classes (including clinical Pilates) from Monday to Friday at the centre, in the summer Sílvia will once again partner with Kalu Beach Bar, at Praia Grande beach, in Ferragudo, to teach ‘Yoga Paddle’ lessons, which combine yoga and stand-up paddle.

In harmony with their philosophy, Sílvia and David also hope to host community yoga lessons every Friday, which will be open to local disadvantaged people. In the future, their goal is to provide training to other people, making Villa Prana a true holistic hub. With their classes and workshops full, and consultations piling up quickly, these new parents may be tired, but they certainly have a very healthy baby.

Prices per room start at €20 in the low season (including breakfast). Class membership available from €25 per month.

www.villaprana.pt

Text AnaTtavares

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Inside meets the driving force behind The Algarve Fruit Wine Company Husband and wife team, Nick and Stella Downs, have taken a prized regional product, Silves oranges, and incorporated them in a new product, which not only puts surplus oranges to good use, but also creates jobs and puts a smile on peoples’ faces.

Their invention, Portuguese Orange Wine, is a “full-strength product”, in Nick’s words, as well as authentic, organic and original.  We visited Nick and Stella at their wine-experimenting homestead in the Odelouca valley, to learn more about this rural activity and try it for ourselves. “This is something we want to leave behind for Portugal,” Nick, formerly one of the UK’s leading fruit wine producers, explains. “We want to see this idea blossom, and it will!” Back in the 80s, Nick produced English Apple Country wines in Devon. The wines proved to be very successful and were snapped up by tourists, locals, shops and hotels and offered endless opportunities for part-time employment in and around his hometown area of Honiton.

When he retired to Portugal with wife Stella, 15 years ago, he was stunned by the sight of endless orange orchards littered with fruit left to rot on the ground. His professional brain went into overdrive, and it wasn’t long before he started experimenting with a way of using the oranges to create something wonderful, popular and ultimately delicious. “We have spent the past five years, or so, experimenting with turning oranges into fruit wines, researching the technical difficulties and developing a suitable method of production. The result is a beautiful, low-acid wine, golden-orange in colour and around 18% in alcoholic volume. In its raw state it is suitable as an aperitif or digestif, however, if diluted with one third purified still or sparkling water, it can be transformed into a very palatable table wine,” the couple explain.

“Globalisation is killing this country,” Nick considers, as he pours us a tiny glass of his most successful experiment so far, the 2011 hand-pressed variety of his orange wine. “I think more and more, people will realise that ‘small is beautiful’ and, as such, the best way of bringing employment to rural areas.” Packing nearly 18%, the proffered wine raises the eyebrows long before it has even touched the lips. But it is exceedingly good, smells wonderful and is very gentle on the stomach. “Stella is actually my most sophisticated form of equipment,” Nick confides. “If there is anything wrong with a product, Stella’s stomach will tell us.”

Nick explains further. “Orange wine has to be made from only the juice of the oranges. Trial and error has taught us to steer clear of mechanical squeezing, as this releases the essential oils from the skins, pith, etc. When these oils come into contact with the juice, it does not result in a good quality wine. This is another reason why we have to keep production small.”

Intriguingly, the couple has found that the dried orange skins, left over from the squeezing process, make for excellent firelighters – so there could eventually be an environmentally-friendly spin-off from their cottage industry. Nick and Stella also believe there are definite health benefits in well-made orange wines – still to be proven by science, but definitely worth investigating.

The past five years have seen the couple attracting business partners. A prestigious chain of hotels, here in the Algarve, has indicated its interest, while the wine has already been approved by importers to the UK, Dubai and India.

Expansion plans didn’t run as smoothly as the Downs had initially hoped. Starting off as an experimental exercise and a bit of a hobby, they soon realised that living in Portugal comes with a new set of bureaucratic rules and regulations. When they originally tried to convert their outbuilding into an “adega”, they were faced with very restrictive laws, such as the need for male and female toilets, which of course made no sense to them, as they live on the land and are husband and wife. The costs involved were just too prohibitive and slowed their progress.  Some time passed, but their perseverance eventually paid off. They now have a professional team and intend to go commercial in the near future – setting up a local fruit winery/tourist attraction. The team includes local growers, a well-qualified young Portuguese graduate in Food Science, currently completing a master’s degree thesis on different types of fruit wine yeasts, a young Portuguese graduate, with a degree in biology and environmental studies, and of course, Nick and Stella. They are particularly keen that the project should stay and grow in the local economy, and not be exported overseas or cynically exploited into a mass-produced, low-quality product. Developing Orange Wine is the primary goal of The Algarve Fruit Wine Company, but the team is keen to begin experimenting with other fruit-based wines to take advantage of the varied bounty of delicious fruit that grows here, but which is often not marketed or even harvested.

Photos Sara Alves

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A Chip Off the Old Block

Inside spoke to the Flessemans, a family of female artists inspired by the Algarve’s unique Light

We all inherit something from our parents, be it our temperament, the colour of our eyes or an aptitude for a certain sport. For the Flesseman girls, it was their mother Bettine’s artistic vein. Both Meinke (a well-established painter) and her sister Pauline (a naturally gifted photographer) inherited Bettine’s sensitivity and artistic flair.

Born in Amsterdam in 1943, Bettine Flesseman’s career was strongly influenced by her grandfather and aunt, who were both well-known painters in Holland. In 1969, she moved to Portugal with her husband and two young girls, where she went on to develop her painting skills and had yearly individual exhibitions in various galleries in Lisbon and throughout the Algarve. While her husband got involved in several real estate projects, such as the Quinta Paraíso in Carvoeiro, Meinke and Pauline enjoyed growing up in their new environment, discovering nature and becoming aware of their surroundings.

We met Pauline on Alvor beach, one of her favourite spots, close to her home. The old fishing village, with its long stretch of beach and lagoon, is a great source of inspiration for the self-taught photographer. “I still find myself absorbed by the Algarve’s special luminosity, which is hard to find anywhere else,” remarks Pauline, looking around us as the sun sets in the distance over Lagos. “I come from a family of successful artists, my mother Bettine and my sister Meinke are both painters, which I acknowledge is both a factor for some insecurity and, at the same time, my inspiration for developing my creativity,” she admits.

The eldest of the two, Meinke started painting at the age of 17 and spread her wings by travelling to Moscow, where she studied fine art at the Lorenzo di Medici academy, and then at the Ruud Wackers academy in Amsterdam, where she flourished as an artist.

Just like her sister Pauline, she is greatly influenced by her natural surroundings and her relationship with the land. Describing her style as “figurative with an eclectic edge”, she explains: “My inspiration comes from my direct environment. Often a subconscious response to what is going on for me. I’m currently working on portraits incorporating other elements, fish and dogs seem to be showing up lately.”

Constantly developing her art, Meinke explores new avenues: “In the last couple of years I’ve experimented a lot with different themes and media. I’ve done a large carpet painting project for a hotel in Spain and I’m exploring tile painting for a design hotel in Holland.”

As for Pauline, although she has been involved in all sorts of different projects throughout her life, she is no exception when it comes to the women in the family, having chosen to reveal her artistic gift through photography. Whether with bold colours or in black and white, her captivating images reflect everyday life in the Algarve, but also in distant lands she has travelled in.

She has many skills up her sleeve, she’s a certified yoga teacher and also helps her mother-in-law with her small hotel, Casa Três Palmeiras, in Praia do Vau. It’s no secret, Pauline loves creating and involving herself in new projects. “I just want to do it all,” she says laughing. Her latest project is a gourmet shop in Carvoeiro created in partnership with Terroir shop & kitchen in Carvoeiro and Club Nau in Ferragudo, – Earth Shop & Café – where you can either taste or buy unique Portuguese products, from wine to olive oil and cheese to crockery.

However, her true passion is photography. It was Richard Schlingensiepen, her long-term partner, who encouraged her to pursue what was just a hobby. “We both enjoyed photography, but it didn’t make sense for both of us to be constantly taking pictures. One day he just stopped and let me carry on,” she said. And she hasn’t stopped since: “Still today I can lose track of time, shooting away at some detail in the sand.” It’s a sort of meditation for her.

Pauline and Richard love to travel to different parts of the world, and regularly go to Thailand where they had previously run a dive shop and a beach bar with friends. The colourful landscapes, indigenous species and joyful inhabitants are also featured in Pauline’s vibrant shots, which transmit strong emotions and a multitude of textures.

Thanks to Meinke’s 18-year-old daughter Sancha, the family’s long line of artistic females will endure. Having also inherited the artistic vein, and obviously influenced by the women in her family, she is currently developing her sculpting skills.

Discover Meinke’s work at her studio in Olhão (by appointment only), at Alquatro and Gosto in Almancil, as well as the Côrte-Real Gallery in Paderne. Pauline’s work is on show at Restinga Ria in Alvor and at the Earth Shop & Café in Carvoeiro.

www.meinke-art.co.uk

www.paulineflesseman.com

www.fineartamerica.com

Text Alexandra Stilwell

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Back to basics brewing

The Algarve has so much more to offer than its dramatic coastline. From autumn to spring, visitors become acquainted with the region’s relaxed way of life and traditions that often escape holidaymakers in the busier summer months.

We took a trip inland and discovered the delightful Quinta do Avo (grandad’s farm) in the sleepy village of Algoz.

The farmhouse has remained in the same family for generations and has been transformed from a dairy farm into a quintessential Portuguese Tea House and Nano Brewery. Retaining much of its rustic charm with thoughtful design touches, it’s like stepping back in time.

Encarnaçao Gonçalves wakes at the crack of dawn to make jams, liqueurs and bake cakes – all made from locally sourced, seasonal produce. The family firmly believes in the benefits of organic ingredients and traditional methods.

Son Andre Gonçalves met his friend Ruben Pires at University in 2012. Like most young students, they enjoyed drinking and socialsing with their friends. As a result, the dynamic duo began to dabble in home brewing with the intention of producing beer for their consumption.

The first batches were a combination of trial and error as the pair sampled various hops. Andre explained: “Hops are the main ingredient in beer and the difference between them is remarkable. We had to try many variations, mixing the levels and eventually we arrived at the current blend – which is a combination of British and American hops with a tiny amount of rare Portuguese hops – to get the right balance between the spicy, fruitiness, dryness and bitter textures.”

Ruben’s fellow students were impressed: “Everyone loved our beer, and it was great to see their reaction. They kept on telling us, you should seriously do something with this.” Indeed, the demand was so much that Ruben and Andre began back-to-back brews in a bid to take their hobby to the next level.

On graduating with degrees in landscape architecture, both friends decided to follow their hearts, and with encouragement from their friends and family, they built their Nano Brewery at Quinta do Avos.

Having grown up in the farmhouse, Andre was used to helping his grandparents with the dairy farming at the property. As a result, he felt at home working with natural elements and handling organic produce and put these skills into practice to create their first brewing vat.

Andre explained: “I grew up here and knew that this was the perfect place to start our project. We are surrounded by the beautiful Algarve countryside and that’s important to me. This is where we will hopefully be able to collaborate with others and develop a new grade of hops that will give the true flavour of the Algarve to our customers.”

Ruben was responsible for creating the brand and logo, while they both dealt with the bureaucratic issues and hygiene requirements, and Marafada beer was born.

Marafada is an Algarvean word that loosely translates as a naughty or mischievous character full of spirit. The word not only suits the beer but also the lively and fun-loving producers. Ruben told us: “The inspiration for the logo came from the character of the beer and it was important for us to show the mountains, barley, lady dressed in an Algarve costume with our beer and of course, the sun. I think it really captures the essence of our product.”

The beer currently in production is an IPA (India Pale Ale). They both agreed that this was the perfect brew to launch their business. Andre added: “The hops vary from each harvest, so every batch will be slightly different. That’s the beauty of organic brewing. We are developing other blends all the time and are looking into producing a special Christmas beer. We are constantly developing different brews. The batches usually take around one month to produce and require a further two to three weeks of fermentation in the bottle before they are ready for consumption. Each batch produces around 300 bottles, which are sanitized then labeled by hand and delivered to a few select outlets across the Algarve.”

Andre concluded: “You’ve got to do more than just make great beer. It’s really about innovation, creativity—stepping outside the box of traditional beer marketing.”

Both Andre and Ruben agree that “heart and soul” is the essence of their operation, and their aim for the future is to maintain the quality and integrity of their boutique and organic beer.

For more information on Marafada beer visit the Facebook page: cervejaartesanalmarafada

Text Mia Wallace

photos ©Type Photos – NâPhotos Type Photos-Nanci Pires

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Upcycling has arrived in the Algarve, courtesy of Algarve Paletes

José Luís Neves and Bruno Capela turned crisis into opportunity: after being laid-off from a well-known home improvement company which saw many of its stores closing, the two friends launched a business that not only follows the popular trend of upcycling – transforming by-products or unwanted items into new products -, but that has also earned them many customers across the Algarve.

The concept of Algarve Paletes (Algarve Pallets) couldn’t be simpler: having acquired extensive knowledge in building materials and DIY, the two childhood friends began recycling wood pallets into original designs, building a wide range of furniture pieces, from beds, sofas and tables to dressers, chests and chairs. The project was officially launched a year and a half ago, with Zé Luís and Bruno sourcing pallets from local suppliers, but also relying on the kindness of those who don’t have any better use for the wooden frames. “We do all sorts of work,” said Zé Luís. “We sometimes use them whole, others we disassemble to build something entirely new. We sand the pallets, paint them, everything.”

What began as a small-scale project for the two unemployed men, quickly turned into a fully-fledged company thanks to their friends and family’s word of mouth and mostly to their Facebook page: “People go to our page, they see our work and they leave us suggestions or pictures of things they would like us to do,” he said. With their very own workshop in Lagoa, in Fatacil, the pair can take up to two days to complete a single piece, but the amount of hours they put in normally depends on the complexity of the job. Some of their most original work includes flower pots, gates, kennels, wine storage units and even kitchen cabinets, but Zé Luís highlights two particular jobs: the Gato de Rua project, in which the duo was commissioned by the Lagoa and Carvoeiro municipalities to build wooden shelters for stray cats; and a bar and restaurant in Portimão, whose shelving units, tables, chairs and bar counter were entirely made of pallets. “We would also like to do more kitchen cabinets, that is something we look forward to,” said Zé Luís.

So far, such creativity has earned the company an array of clients across the region, from Praia da Luz to Olhão, and they have been particularly busy in the western Algarve area, namely in Lagos and Vale da Telha, near Aljezur. The majority of clients, up to 60 to 70% of their clientele, are foreigners, but the pair also hopes to attract more Portuguese customers. With prices usually ranging from €60 to €200 (depending on the size of the project and including transportation), the best way to custom build your project is to contact the pair through their Facebook page and send them a brief description or visual of what you want. With Zé Luís admitting that the company already has a waiting list, all you have to do then is wait until your project comes skillfully to life.

For more information, search for Algarve Paletes on Facebook.

Text Ana Tavares

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Enjoying the best for less

The staple ingredients in the Portuguese diet are chicken, pork, fish, vegetables, salad and wine, which are thankfully still easily accessible to everyone at a good price. Many restaurants prepare a special lunchtime menu called “Prato do Dia” (Dish of the Day) and offer a decent variety of meat or fish dishes as part of an all inclusive menu for as little as €7.

The “Prato do Dia” was originally introduced for the country’s workers to ensure that they had a hearty meal to get them through the day. Thankfully, it also made economic sense, so the tradition continues to this day and has evolved to meet the demands of the mainstream market. Most establishments serving the Dish of the Day follow the same format: bread, butter, pate and olives, accompanied by a main course, dessert, a drink (some venues include a bottle of wine for 2 people) and coffee for surprisingly good value, from €7 to €10 for everything.

In Carvoeiro there are a number of eateries to enjoy the Dish of the Day. Vimar is the most central restaurant with a €9.50 lunch including a starter. They also offer an all-inclusive evening menu at a slightly higher price that is available every day. On the outskirts of the village, A Tasquinha features a pleasant menu with a fresh salad or starter and liqueur thrown in from Tuesday to Friday. Escondidinho, Ponto de Encontro, O Branco and Jophil are all located just outside of the village yet are still easily accessible. Further afield, there are excellent options in and around Porches with A Rampa and Tia Teresa proving very popular with the locals, while in Ferragudo you will find Portarade in the main square.

The aforementioned restaurants cook the traditional menu where everything is included. However, some diners may find a three course meal too filling at lunch time. For lighter dining alternatives, Café Fino have a meal deal which includes a drink, soup and a meal for €7.50. Tony’s offer a burger or bifana meal deal as another option at €4, or €5 for a main meal. The Wolf has a 2 course lunch with a drink and coffee for €15, Pimenta Preta in Palm Gardens have a 2 course freshly prepared menu for €13 (no drinks included) and even the Carvoeiro Tandoori have a main meal with rice and a drink for €9.99.

So, enjoy the beautiful winter days sitting in the sun and soaking up the atmosphere. Savour an appetising lunch with a glass of wine and live like a local.

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Bespoke, natural and Portuguese

In 2009, master craftsman Jose Manuel “Alambre” Bailhote sat with his two sons, Marco and Paulo, thinking about ways to move their furniture production business forward. Eldest son Marco proposed the novel idea of using cork.

Under their father’s watchful eye, Marco and Paulo started to experiment with different bonding aids and techniques. Jose continued to make his bespoke furniture pieces, while his sons began to put the cork coating side of their business into practice from their workshop in downtown Portimao.

When Jose unveiled the first piece to his sons, they were astonished with the result. Paulo told us, “My father had been working on an old chair, which he completely coated with cork sheeting. He presented the chair to us and we were stunned. The quality and beauty of the finish was breathtaking. We were really excited and started to think of items that we could coat with cork, soon realizing that the list was more or less endless.”

Cork is one of Portugal’s provincial treasures. Elegant, classic, luxurious and impermeable, this valuable natural resource was the perfect material to launch the new brand.

As they began to get to grips with the limitations of cork coating, they realized that cork’s durable and impermeable qualities would be perfect for the handlebars on bicycles. Luckily, the brothers had connections in the cycling industry and contacted their friend Sergio at Metro Bikes in Ferragudo. Sergio saw the potential in a collaborative effort and instantly agreed to a joint venture, where he would supply bicycle parts and the newly formed Cork Coating division of Alambre would coat the pieces in cork. The successful joint venture has resulted in more and more people ordering cork finishing to their custom bikes.

Paulo explained: “We tried so many different objects. With the aid of a 3D printer, we started to make small nautical themed anchors, fish key rings and fish bone trinkets to sell at the Lota Cool Market in Portimao, where we were exhibiting our new range of cork-coated items. The small pieces where more for people to be able to feel the texture and offer something cute and portable to take away from the market. This isn’t really our main production line, they were just for fun.”

Their presence at the market was proving popular and people were enthusiastic about the cork-coated telephone, typewriter, briefcase, chairs, helmet, lamps, USB pens, bottle openers and star of the show, the cork-coated bicycle.

Then, tragedy befell the family. While Marco was exhibiting the bicycle at the market, he fell unconscious and subsequently died from a heart attack at the tender age of 36. Following Marco’s death, Jose and Paulo picked up their tools again, and in a touching tribute to Marco, turned their focus to pushing forward with the brand using cork wherever possible.

Speaking to Paulo about their future plans, he told us, “Our primary focus is to build on the cork coating side of our business. We are constantly experimenting with new objects and are really happy with the results. We can make anything from a key ring to a house,” he laughed. “Seriously, it would be a very expensive house but we could do it if someone commissioned it.”

With recent projects including a large counter and table set in the funky hangout Casa da Tocha in Portimao, and beautiful bespoke personal projects, Alambre is going from strength to strength, building solid foundations for what will no doubt be a very popular design brand. Watch this space.

Find Alambre on Facebook alambrefurniture

Text Mia Wallace

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From traditional chimneys to unknown medieval castles, Inside visits Porches’ rich cultural heritage.

This unassuming town, alongside the EN 125, might go unnoticed by some, but there are few places that can lay claim to so many treasures, legends, traditions and such beautiful scenery. Over the years, Porches has proved highly skilled, not only at respecting tradition and authenticity, but also at combining them with the modern world. Its 16.5 square kilometres and its 2,725 inhabitants hold an endless supply of tales to be told.

The fort of Nossa Senhora da Rocha (Our Lady of the Rock), and its small whitewashed chapel overlooking the Atlantic, constitute one of the Algarve’s greatest attractions. Stood on a promontory, the old fort commissioned by King João III protected against pillaging marauders. Old stories say that there was once a kind of “crane” here, with a counterweight, which was used to lift goods out of boats and onto land. Another interesting fact which few are aware of is that inside the chapel, under the altar, there is a hole through which you could hear and see the sea; a kind of passage that connects the chapel over dozens of metres to the sea. This has always been closed, but the hole has been sealed for safety reasons.

The chapel exudes an aura of mystery and its construction date remains unknown to this day. And because legends are part of the intangible heritage, of the memory and identity of the community, legend has it that, “when work first began on building the chapel, the workmen making the initial excavations would leave their tools at the end of each day, only to find they had been moved, further down, to the point of the rock, when they returned following morning. They came to the conclusion that Our Lady didn’t want the chapel there and so they started to build it on the site where their tools appeared every morning. From then on, the tools never disappeared or moved about” (Portuguese Archive of Legends).

The chapel and fort were seriously damaged in the 1755 earthquake, but the chapel was partially restored. Listed as a “building of public interest” since 1963, a research project is still pending to this day.

Few people are aware that there was once a medieval castle in Porches, given the lack of visible remains. José Bentes, the local mayor, laments the lack of interest in exploring such important heritage: “There is still much to study and discover,” he said. In 1911, Ataíde Oliveira wrote in Monografia de Porches: “As the government doesn’t want to spend a penny on prehistoric research, there is no choice but to wait for the property owner to work and turn his lands. And it wouldn’t cost much to find a great abundance of remains of civilisations in the entire area of Porches Velho, Senhora da Rocha, Crastos and Quinta dos Alporchinhos.” More than a century later, such treasures are still waiting to be unearthed.

Another highlight is Porches Parish Church, whose bell tower rises high above the town’s rooftops. Built in the 16th century, it was badly damaged in the 1755 earthquake. However, in 1882, António Joaquim Cabrita donated “4,000 réis”, enabling its reconstruction.

The art of pottery has been practiced since time immemorial. After falling into decline, the tradition was picked up again in the late 1960s by Irish artist Patrick Swift and Lima de Freitas, who founded Olaria Algarvia. As Luís Bentes stressed, “Swift put Porches on the world map”. Today there are several pottery workshops along the EN125, but there are few that still paint the earthenware by hand. One Saturday morning, we met up with Juliet Swift, 56, as she was dealing with the many customers entering the Olaria Algarvia. She and her sister Estella, 46, are the daughters of the Irish artist. Having trained as artists themselves, the two sisters decided to continue the work their father started. And the next generation of potters is secured too, with Juliet’s son now working in the field. On another workbench, Maria Eulália, 58, is painting a piece of earthenware, prior to being glazed. “I’ve been working here for 25 years and I love it. I paint, I deal with customers, I do everything.” While they take in the incredible diversity of pieces of all shapes and colours, the people entering the workshop are a picture of admiration and amazement.

Nearby, under the guiding hand of Scotsman Ian Fitzpatrick, 60, stands the Olaria Pequena, located in an old farmhouse. Ian arrived in the Algarve 34 years ago. A trained artist, he decided to dedicate himself to the pottery tradition of Porches. He and Marco Correia are the mentors behind every item on display. “Every piece is crafted and painted by hand. No two pieces are the same,” reads a sign, as you enter.

Finally, it is impossible to visit Porches without noticing its typical chimneys: original, colourful and very old. Talking about the chimneys, Luís Bentes reveals that the parish council will shortly launch a ‘Porches chimney route’, which will explain their history. “It’s well worth taking a stroll around the town’s streets to admire the old roofs and chimneys. Each one reflects how wealthy the family was,” he explained. One of the most mythical and mysterious can be found above the Casa Museu, in the Rua da Chaminé street. It features a castle keep, a spoked wheel and a human figure, and dates from 1793. In the Travessa do Correio there is another, dating from the 18th century, with four sides. Another highlight is the chimney of the charming Leão de Porches restaurant, located within an impressive restored building, dating from the 18th century. Here we find a lion, crowned with vine leaves. Legend has it that a baby lion appeared in the town many years ago and that it was looked after by the family of this house.

Text & photos Sara Alves

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The master chairman

Inside met a seasoned artisan who makes one of Monchique’s biggest symbols: the scissor chair

One of José Leonardo Salvador’s favourite things to do when he was a child was to take a planer and smooth out wood planks until the floor was covered in curly shavings. At that time, scissor chairs were not yet called scissor chairs – they were simply known as Monchique chairs –, and many Portuguese children were forced to leave school to work at a young age. José was one of those children; after completing primary school, he began working with his father and grandfather, both sawyers, when he was 13. Now, at 72 years old, José is one of the few remaining master carpenters who grasp the complex art of scissor chairs, one of the most iconic symbols of Monchique and part of the region’s Roman heritage. He is also one of the best known, as his innovative ways led him to develop the traditional chair into around 30 models, from benches to tables and even rocking chairs.

Following his family’s tradition in the wood industry, José worked as a carpenter for most of his life. In the ’60s, when the Brits “discovered” the Algarve as a tourist destination and became avid buyers of such craftsmanship, José found himself flooded with orders. “My work, which I described as a carpenter’s work, was now called an artisan’s job,” he jokes, adding that it was also due to the tourists that the Monchique chairs became known as scissor chairs.

Actually more a stool than a chair, these pieces were the most common type of seating in the Roman period, mainly due to their portability, as they folded in a scissor style. A democratic chair – it was used by both emperors and slaves –, it is one of the strongest symbols of the Roman presence in the area, along with Monchique’s extremely popular water springs.

Making the most of this wave of interest in an old regional classic, José opened a small family-run shop in 1977 on Monchique’s Rua Calouste Gulbenkian, where his workshop is still based. Located in what at the time was one of Monchique’s busiest streets, José’s business blossomed, and he eventually felt the need to separate the shop from his workshop. That is why Casa dos Arcos moved a few steps away from his workshop to Estrada Velha around 20 years ago. A great display space for José’s work, the shop is literally filled with pieces – all inspired by the traditional scissor stool model. There are tables, long benches, chairs with embellished arms and backs and even eating chairs, with a purpose-built support for dishes and cups. According to José, he created his first new model in 1978 and has since expanded his range of creations. Many have tried to copy him, he added, but making these pieces requires such an intricate process that few had the patience to carry on.

The shop’s walls, covered in memorabilia, also tell the story of this proud artisan: pictures sent by clients of his pieces in countries such as the US, Germany, Scotland and Denmark; newspaper cut-outs of the many articles written about him, and even images of the three churches in Belgium that were completely furnished with his pieces can all be found hanging from the walls. In a garage next door, clients can also see one of José’s most popular pieces: a giant scissor chair that he made back in 2002 and which helped attract huge media attention to his work. “It is not for sale though,” he says, adding proudly that he’s had quite a few requests.

Each basic chair José makes takes around four to five hours of work to complete. Whilst everything was done by hand in the past, he now relies on the help of a few machines, but the process is still very much artisanal and time-consuming, depending on the chosen finishes. The most complex pieces have wooden finishes throughout and display José’s carved signature.

His wood of choice is alderwood, which grows near water courses and which he buys locally. “We have good quality wood in the area,” notes the carpenter. “The best quality wood is the one that is chopped off in the autumn.” To showcase such quality, the craftsman chooses to sell his pieces in natural wood, without any varnish or finishing product. Clients can then apply teak wax or the product of their choice to protect their pieces.

Whilst before, most of his customers were British, José’s chairs are now bought mainly by Swiss and German tourists, who can rely on the help of his friendly daughter Célia. Having helped her dad sell his pieces since she was seven – “I spoke to tourists by using gestures!” she recalls, smiling – Célia has extensive knowledge of her father’s work and is also in charge of shipping his pieces abroad if requested by clients.

As the owner of what he calls a “true family business”, José admits he would like to have an apprentice to pass on his know-how. He shows us a little wood sculpture carved by his son Paulo, who is currently living abroad, and says: “I still hope it will be him.” Prices for a basic stool start at €25 but they can go up to €200 for the more intricate models. The shop is open Monday to Saturday from 10.30am to 7pm.

Casa dos Arcos – Estrada Velha, Monchique | Tel: 282 911 071

Text Ana Tavares – Photos Sara Alves

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Inside looks at the golf property market in the western Algarve

The Algarve is traditionally a region of sun, sand and sport, or to be more precise, golf. With more than 40 courses (some designed by true golf legends), mild temperatures all year round and little rain, it’s no surprise that the Algarve boasts the highest number of golf courses in Portugal and is often considered one of the best golf destinations in the world.

Such accolades have had an impact, with local real estate agents and golf resorts’ sales managers stating that golf property remained popular (even if prices decreased) throughout the recession. Now that the market is on the road to recovery, they all agree on one thing: golf property is a good investment.

“This is a safe investment away from the financials. That may sound strange, but if you take away the financial investment and look purely on the lifestyle investment, you get a safe, well-maintained environment with all the facilities on your doorstep,” said owner of B&P Real Estate Agency in Lagos, David Westmoreland. Adding that golf properties are now 50% cheaper within a resort and 30% off resort, the real estate agent assured that the main reason for the price drop was that the properties “increased higher than the market for a number of years”.

A good example is the former Parque da Floresta in Budens, home to an 18-hole course and which is now known as Santo Antonio Villas, Golf & Spa. Whilst the resort was riding “the crest of a wave in the noughties”, it was declared bankrupt in 2012, making properties “almost unsalable for a few years”. Now under new management, things are finally looking up, with B&P (which also has properties in Penina and Boavista) selling around 12 properties last year. “Prices are not increasing yet, hence it is a great time to buy. The resort looks great and it is getting back its buzz,” said the real estate agent and former Parque da Floresta’s sales and marketing manager.

The profile of buyers is also changing, with Russian, French, German and Swedish clients now in full force, and mostly purchasing for their own use. ”The rental periods really fall into the peak periods of August and July when a lot of owners prefer not to be there, as the resort is too busy.” With prices ranging from €150,000 in the golf village for a two-bedroom townhouse to €550,000 for a four-bedroom villa, owners at Santo Antonio benefit from preferred tee times and discounted green fees, as well as the use of a golf academy, health & beauty spa and gym.

In fact, given the added benefits and facilities available, it’s not just golfers who are buying golf property, as Oceânico’s sales and marketing executive Filipa Glória explained: “The properties are much higher quality than the market average and are proving popular with clients. Golf resort buyers are often looking for more than just golf.”

A renowned golf operator and property developer, Oceânico owns the luxurious Amendoeira Golf Resort in Alcantarilha, a modern development with 242 properties and three golf courses – the stunning Oceânico Faldo Course and Oceânico O’Connor Jnr., and the beginner-friendly Oceânico Academy. The first phase, comprising 80 houses (two-bedroom apartments, and three-, four- and five-bedroom villas), was launched at the end of May, with more than 30 properties already reserved and property owners enjoying an array of discounted services. Prices range from almost €261,000 for a two-bedroom apartment to €942,000 for a luxury four-bedroom villa. According to Filipa Glória, clients are mostly golfers, pensioners and families from the UK, France, Scandinavia and Benelux countries, and like at Santo Antonio, some rent out their properties to cover costs. “Generally younger buyers look to rent more than retirement buyers,” she noted.

Home to three courses, including the first 18-hole golf course in the Algarve – the Sir Henry Cotton Championship Course – Penina Hotel & Golf Resort is a symbol of golf excellence in the Algarve. Whilst the resort, which is located in Portimão and encompasses a 5-star hotel, does not have new property for sale, it is a sought-after spot for resale opportunities. With a number of homes at Penina in her portfolio, managing partner of Fine & Country Carvoeiro, Zoie Hawker, says that Penina, “the Algarve’s oldest golf resort, is always popular”. “Buyers are especially attracted by the facilities of the 5-star hotel, the three gold golf courses and attractive membership fees. Plus, the plots are all large (at least 2,000sqm) and there is no condominium charge,” she added. Here, prices for a five-bedroom villa can reach €875,000 and, like in any other golf resort, “views over the fairways are always popular”.

Further east, in Carvoeiro, we find Vale de Milho, a nine-hole course affording gorgeous views over the Atlantic. Co-owner and developer Mark Stilwell has built 10 luxury townhouses on-site: “Five of the owners rent. The English play

golf, the Swiss and Dutch a bit and the Portuguese do not play,” he said. Real estate agency Fine & Country also has a number of houses for sale within walking distance of the Carvoeiro course, including a three-bedroom townhouse for €290,000.

Commenting on the current state of the Algarve market, Mark noted, “property sales are improving, but buyers are careful about running costs and expect discounts”. That seems to be the case in the well-established Boavista Golf Resort & Spa, just outside Lagos. “Clients are becoming more discerning and often ask about the resort support and ongoing costs, as well as the social activities and security,” said Jayne Stanley, sales manager at Boavista. With an 18-hole course offering views over the beautiful Lagos bay, the resort has 12 golf frontage properties on sale, with a further four under construction and six more in planning. These range from two-bedroom townhouses to five-bedroom detached villas with pool and come with resort privileges. Clients can also opt for resale properties, from apartments to detached villas. Highlights include a brand new, fully-furnished two-bedroom townhouse for €270,000, a great opportunity to put your hands on a new golf product, which Fine & Country’s Zoie Hawker says “is scarce in the Algarve”. With a lovely clubhouse and quality spa facilities, Boavista also provides (if requested) a full property service, as well as the advantage of no resort fees, making the job of real estate agents a lot easier. One such agencies is the Lagos-based ToGoFor-Homes, part of a chain with offices in Tavira and Vilamoura, which offers a complete portfolio of golf properties not only at Boavista, but also at Santo Antonio.

Still in the Lagos area, but this time at Meia Praia, Onyria Palmares Beach & Golf Resort is a good option for those who wish to plan their home from the ground up. With a spectacular 27-hole course designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. and plans to build a 5-star hotel on-site, the resort has several plots of land for sale. A more established option in the western Algarve is Pestana Golf, with courses in Silves (Silves Golf) and Carvoeiro (Gramacho and Vale da Pinta), and an array of real estate options – mostly resale – to back it up.

With manicured courses providing great views even for those who don’t play the game, excellent build quality and a wide range of facilities, golf property is set to continue in high demand. “Clients look for security, exclusiveness, quality, one stop shop holidays and holidaying with like-minded people,” noted David Westmoreland. In the western Algarve, all you have to do is take your pick.

Text Ana Tavares

Photos

Top, Boa Vista

Left to right – Santo Antonio Villas, Boa Vista, Vale de Milho.

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Contemporary artist Pascale C. Fey creates a world of self-discovery

There are two things that Pascale Chaleyssin-Fey must do before she brings to life her appealing works of art: the first is to turn on some music or perhaps an audio book, and the second is to paint her canvas black before layering on blocks of colour.

It seemed fitting that, as we walked into her studio – a bright room filled with paints and canvasses at her home in Vale d’El Rei – on one August morning, the romantic sound of the accordion could be heard playing from the radio, evoking images of a bohemian French riverside café.

Born in La Rochelle, France, Pascale, a graphic designer by profession, moved to Portugal with her family two years ago. It’s a country she has always loved, having spent family holidays here since the age of 8, and the quiet surroundings of Caramujeira provide the ideal setting for the soft-spoken artist to create her incredibly successful paintings. But nature is not what inspires her: “The city inspires me. Things I see on websites, or even advertisements on a bus. I see a picture and start to transform it in my mind. I don’t paint nature; I paint people, situations…”

With acrylic as her medium of choice, Pascale’s dream-like paintings have become larger over the years, as has the amount of colour she uses in her work. “At the beginning I just used grey, black and red. Now I want to use more colours, because I’m happy to live here!”

A sort of therapy for the contemporary artist, one thing that hasn’t changed is Pascale’s companion, Georges, a mysterious character that appears in many of her paintings and has proved to be extremely sought-after by gallerists and art-buyers. Always shown from the back, donning a large grey overcoat and hat, Pascale explains: “He is anonymous; I want him to be everyone. At the same time he is me, my father, everybody. He can say everything I can’t, he is a reflection of my soul.”

The artist’s “avatar” is depicted walking in the rain, riding a bicycle, touching the stars or on a zebra crossing as he explores the world, with elements of colour and whimsy added in the form of a single balloon or a sea of umbrellas, for example. The only painting showing Georges’ face is particularly special to Pascale, who points to a picture hanging on the wall behind us. “That is my father. I will never sell that one.”

While Georges is very much in demand by galleries, the petite French painter has also developed other popular series, including the angel-inspired La part des anges, the imposing La Dérive des Continents, the shadowy Jeux d’Ombre, Montée des Eaux, which features a series of buildings standing on stilts above rising water, and the introspective Quis suis-je?, which sold out in a single day.

Now represented by the prestigious ArtCatto gallery in Loulé, Pascale has exhibited her work at the Tivoli Carvoeiro hotel, the S. José Convent and Arte Algarve, both in Lagoa, alongside several exhibits in her native France. Upcoming exhibits include shows at the Real Compromisso Marítimo in Ferragudo in September and Casa Manuel Teixeira Gomes in Portimão in November. In the meantime, the artist’s work can also be purchased in a much smaller form: working with her son Antoine, Pascale creates house name plaques which feature her quirky and very appealing designs.

www.cfeypascale.wix.com/fey

Text Cristina Alcock

Photos Joana Alcock

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Classic Cuban cocktails & Salsa with Italian hospitality

There’s nothing quite like the sound of Salsa music to lift your spirit and transport you back in time to the bustling streets of Havana, Cuba in the mid-twentieth century.

Aramis Reyes, a native Cuban and professional dance instructor met his wife Verena Musanti in her hometown of Turin in Italy. The couple shared a passion for dancing and made the decision to move back to Havana where Verena could take an intensive dance instructors course and gain the necessary qualification to become a teacher.

Upon arriving in Havana, Verena found that she became captivated by the city’s vibrant atmosphere and felt a particular bond with Salsa.

With her course completed, the couple began to think about where they would be best suited for the future. Due to a family connection, they chose Ferragudo and formed their dance group, Salsa & Sapori in 2001 in the Centre for Languages, Culture and Communication (CLCC) in Portimão to promote Cuban Salsa (and other Latin rhythms) in the Algarve. They were astounded when more than 50 students turned up for the first class.

Verena joked, “I honestly think the fact that Aramis didn’t speak the language was a hit with the ladies. On a serious note though, it encouraged the students to absorb the music and not be distracted by verbal instruction, which gave great results. We soon felt that the dance group was not so much a class but a meeting of friends”.

The dance group grew across the Algarve, with weekly classes from east to west becoming more and more popular.

The couple began to perform shows, attend events in the summer season in front of large groups of tourists and even started travelling further afield to other regions of Portugal and abroad. Such was the demand for Salsa and Latino music, Aramis morphed into DJ Aramis, playing in many of the Algarve hotspots of the time, including Manoel’s Jazz Club and The Bote in Carvoeiro.

Their Mediterranean and Cuban characters, and professional and personal relationship make them the perfect hosts for their new project, Salsa & Sapori – Cuban Music Bar. It was a natural choice, which originated from the couple’s roots and young family commitments. They have brought their love of Salsa dancing, entertaining, eating and drinking together in an intimate corner property, owned by Jose Mourinho’s father, just off Ferragudo harbour.

Salsa & Sapori opened it’s doors in April 2015, revealing a brightly painted bar area with large Cuban images decorating the walls and hand-distressed furniture giving a classic Cuban feel.

Salsa and Latin music pour out onto the street enticing people inside, where a warm welcome awaits and the drinks keep flowing until the early hours. Smiling, Verena explained, “We offer everyone a small tapas with each drink. We really want people to feel welcome and enjoy our little slice of Havana”.

“We never know when the dancing will start. More often than not, the tables and chairs end up outside on the terrace and the bar area turns into a dance floor where we usually end up choreographing a routine with willing participants. Most people do end up joining in but we certainly would not force anyone to dance. Some people are more than happy in their seats, tapping their feet”.

With big plans for the future they are already taking reservations for private dance classes in the bar with one-to-one, group and even couples coming for pre-wedding dance lessons. The plans also include an extended menu to showcase several Italian favourites, daytime opening, parties and events.

Tel: 282 483 214

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Local producers take canned fish to a new level

Canned fish became fashionable a few years ago with gourmet cafés and shops popping up all over Portugal, with some only supplying canned fish products and creating inventive ways of serving them.

To reflect its rising popularity, an artisanal “canned fish” production facility opened in July of this year. Saboreal is the brainchild of three entrepreneurs with the collective vision of keeping everything as fresh, sustainable, handmade and local as possible.

Vincent Jonckheere, 34, a Belgian professor of hospitality economy, Manuel Mendes, 30, a pharmacist and André Teixeira, 28 a fishing vessel owner, both Portuguese, formed their company and began looking for suitable premises. After much deliberation, they found the ideal site in Parchal, not far from the old Portimão bridge. It was a logical choice, as sardines and mackerel arrive directly from the fishermen’s boats into the production facility, guaranteeing the freshest possible product.

The majority of the ingredients used in production are sourced within a 20-30 kilometer radius of the Parchal factory. Garlic, carrots, lemons, onions, olives, almonds, coriander, dried tomatoes and sea salt are prepared on site ready for “canning day” and stored in the refrigeration area until required.

Vincent explained “We are effectively a three-man operation. We select the fish ourselves, clean and prepare them in our purpose-built facility – where we ensure that each fish passes our quality control a second time – before preparing them in a special Portuguese-built oven, which rapidly cooks the fish while maintaining the flavour, colour and texture. Then we fillet each fish by hand to make a batch of Tapas.”

The recipes were conceived after months of testing, experimentation and market research. The results are natural and flavoursome – the very essence of the Algarve.

The trio decided to use glass containers, Manuel Mendes told us “the jars lend themselves to a handmade image, which is vital to convey. Cans also need much greater industrialisation and a higher volume of fish, which is not our goal. Our line handles less than 100 kilograms of fish a day and that just wouldn’t warrant acquiring the machinery to make the cans”.

Andre adds, “it’s important to the consumer to be able to see the quality of the product that they are buying”.

The glass jars are sterilised in a large cleaning vat in the preparation zone where there is a small window of time to fill each of the jars by hand with the fresh fish mixture. The sterilisation process, called “autoclaving”, creates a vacuum seal inside the glass jars, enabling the contents to have a shelf life of around three years. Once the caps have been fitted, the labels are affixed to the jars by hand, packed and ready for distribution.

Saboreal currently produce three varieties of fish tapas, sardines with sun-dried tomatoes, mackerel with almonds and green olives, and horse mackerel with carrot and coriander, which are available in small jars. Whole fillets of sardines, mackerel or horse mackerel preserved in extra virgin olive oil are on sale in larger jars.

An animated Vincent exclaimed, “We believe in handmade products. Working with our hands enables us to produce a product with a unique flavour and quality. We place great value in using the skills of man rather than heavy machinery. We are firm advocates of local and sustainable products. To make good products we need good ingredients, so we use local producers to get them.”

The operation runs like a well-oiled machine with the drive and determination of each of the three owners evident at every stage of the process. They are passionate and focused on pushing their venture onwards and upwards with talk of expanding into tuna part of their plans for the future.

Saboreal Tapas are available from carefully selected retailers in the local area, Earth Shop & Cafe in Carvoeiro, Da Nossa Terra em Alvor Casa Grande in Ferragudo and Maria do Mar in Portimao.

Find them on Facebook: ConserveiraSaboreal

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Introducing the only gin made in the Algarve, by Algarveans

There is no drink quite as fashionable as gin right now.

A Dutch invention that’s quintessentially English at heart, the spirit once associated to middle-aged, middle-class drinkers in the form of the classic gin & tonic has exploded to become Portugal’s drink du jour.

In the last couple of years, gin bars have been popping up across the country, with an increasing number of gin experts serving carefully prepared concoctions in balloon glasses to various generations of Portuguese and international drinkers alike. But “the perfect serve” is more than a fleeting trend and Portuguese businesses have taken notice. Today, there are a number of gins produced here in Portugal, but only one of them is made right here in the Algarve with products that best represent the region: Tangerine Gin.
Presented in a distinctive orange bottle bearing the words ‘Premium Citrus Reticulata Gin’, Tangerine Gin is the result of two years of development, the brainchild of Portimão native Eduardo Peixinho Reis. It was when he joined forces with local producer Luís Sequeira, the man behind the Talurdinha aguardente firewaters and liqueurs in the village that has been distilling as far back as 1747, that the Algarve’s first and only gin was born.
It’s in a distillery between Lagoa and Silves that Luís Sequeira produces this citrusy gin, first launched in late 2014. London dry in style, it is triple distilled in copper steam boilers, with nine different dehydrated botanicals added to the spirit: juniper, tangerine, orange, lemon, almond, black pepper

(the only botanical not from Portugal), liquorice, angelica and coriander seed. Still in its early days as a gin-maker, the distillery can produce 30,000 litres, a figure that can increase depending on market demands.
“The gin trend isn’t a global thing, but it has become huge in some countries including Portugal, so producing a gin was inevitable,” explains Eduardo, a food engineer who also teaches at the Hospitality School in Portimão. “We had to set it apart from London gin; we can’t compete with all the English gins so we had to create a different product that also promotes the Algarve and its own products. From the start, the idea was to produce an aromatic product with a different look.”
With 42% alcohol, the gin is extraordinarily versatile, according to the producers, and there are many debates as to the best way to serve it. Eduardo recommends serving it with tonic and a slice of orange – or just the zest if it’s sweet enough – or freshly squeezed orange juice (“using Silves oranges, of course!”), coriander, lemon or basil. “It can also be drunk straight as it’s very easy to drink, and it’s amazing in cocktails,” adds the Algarvean.
Speaking from the distillery’s tasting room, which is open to visitors, the team explains: “We have two big advantages here. First, that our distilling tradition dates back to the 18th century – in fact the Algarve is the region that has been distilling the longest, a tradition that comes from the Moors –, and second, our microclimate and temperature, which gives us everything, aromatic plants and other ingredients.” They note, however, that the Algarve has one handicap when it comes to gin production: it doesn’t have juniper, which only grows at high altitudes. To produce Tangerine Gin, the junipers are brought in from the Serra da Estrela mountain range.
Bearing the stamp ‘Product of Portugal’, which reflects Eduardo’s belief that we should promote the country and the Algarve through its unique products and experiences, the gin was also created in collaboration with some of the region’s beverage professionals, whose feedback helped perfect the final recipe. “Their input is in the genesis of the product today, they all left their stamp. So you could say it really is a product of the Algarve through and through.”
As well as in bars and restaurants, Tangerine Gin is available at supermarkets and wine shops across the Algarve, including Intermarché in Carvoeiro and Rei das Praias Boutique in Ferragudo (RRP around €25).

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When he was a child, Eduardo Ferreira would dream of flying through the mountains like a bird, which explains why, today, there is nowhere he feels safer or more at home than high above the buildings and beaches of the Algarve. He may have achieved his dream, but the 46-year-old’s wings rely on the power of an engine as well as the wind.

Born in the mountainous area of Serra da Estrela, Eduardo is the only licensed and certified paramotor instructor in the region. Initially a paraglider, he was introduced to the paramotor – essentially a paraglider propelled by a motor – in 2000 and the advantages were clear from the start: “With paragliding you have to go to the top of a mountain, take your partner or whoever, do the flight, and then they have to come get you wherever you have landed.   And if they can’t find you, there are quarrels… It’s all very complicated!” says Eduardo, half-jokingly.

“With the paramotor you have complete autonomy, you don’t have to rely on anyone and you can arrive right back to where you set off.”

After qualifying as an instructor, he now provides paramotoring courses through his company, FlyAlvor, in association with the Lagos Aerodrome. A member of the Portuguese Paramotor Commission and an instructor of the Portuguese Aeronautical Federation and the Portuguese Free Flying Federation, Eduardo’s courses not only teach pupils how to fly, but also vital elements such as aerodynamics, meteorology and flight effects, before they get their licence, with exams much like a driving licence. “There is a lot of theory, because you have to know what you’re doing, and there are rules in place to ensure your safety and the safety of others,” notes the instructor, adding that the length of the course depends on each individual, who must be at least 16 (with parental consent).

But aside from teaching others how to safely enjoy this activity, Eduardo can often be seen taking to the skies doing aerial stunts and entertainment for events, working with aerial photographers, carrying special messages for celebrations and weddings, and, on one occasion, even taking the groom to the altar.

His longest role to date, however, has been that of Father Christmas, donning a Santa costume and flying over Portimão and Ferragudo every year since 2001 – in 2011, Santa even came complete with two flying reindeer –, while he also organises annual Father Christmas paramotor gatherings.

With four paramotors and two trikes, specially developed for disabled passengers, a service that Eduardo introduced this year, the flyer admits there is nothing more fulfilling than taking people up in the paramotor and seeing their reaction as they take in the region from a bird’s eye view. For this, FlyAlvor offers flight baptisms, which take clients (mostly foreign tourists) over Portimão, Alvor, Armação de Pêra or Tavira and last between 15 to 20 minutes. Passengers, who are strapped into a seat in front of Eduardo, are given a helmet and mufflers and are in constant communication for total peace of mind. “I always explain that the engine will cut out once we’re gliding – and we won’t fall! It’s like paragliding; the motor is just there as a propeller for taking off.” That’s one of the beauties of paragliding, notes the Portimão resident: “You don’t need a mountain. You can take off from anywhere, as long as you have 50sqm.” Once up in the sky, the paramotor can travel up to 72km/h, depending on the wing and the wind (if wind conditions are too strong then Eduardo chooses not to fly for the comfort of his passengers, while those with diabetes are not allowed to fly). He is also quick to dispel any fears people may have. “Even if the engine breaks down, it’s just like normal paragliding. In fact paramotoring is much safer than a car!” But what makes the paramotor experience so special that clients and even his own mother  comes back again and again.

Searching for words, Eduardo’s eyes sparkle as he tries to describe the activity that has seen him rack up more than 2,000 flight hours. “It’s just spectacular, and totally different to anything from the ground. I’ve covered the length of the Algarve, from Sagres to Spain, I’ve flown in the north of Portugal, but the best flight has to be between Portimão and Armação de Pêra. It’s an hour’s flight but it’s marvellous. The sea contrasts with the ochre cliffs, and in the springtime the greenery is just astounding.” Along with spring, the paramatorist believes autumn is another great time for flying, or the height of summer if people want to see the beaches in all their high-season glory.

Having also provided his services for television reports, anniversary events and celebrations, and even search and rescue operations, Eduardo spends much of his time where he always dreamed: soaring high above the madding crowds.

Prices for flights start at €60 (booking required).
Contact 965 475 385 or find FlyAlvor on Facebook for more information.

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THE GRUPO DESPORTIVO DE LAGOA NOW HAS ITS OWN BASKETBALL TEAM

In September 2014, they didn’t even have a ball, let alone a kit. By mid-season, they were 5th in the league. This may only be its first official season as GD Lagoa, but the basketball team now wearing Lagoa’s municipal colours has actually been around for much longer. Already veterans on the country’s basketball scene, the players once formed the ACD Ferragudo team, and took the club the furthest it had ever been in the national tables. However, when internal restructuring saw the team paying increasing costs, the members had to rethink their position and, just 10 days before the registration cut-off point, the GD Lagoa senior I men’s basketball team was born. With many of the players having represented the Ferragudo team for years ­ some since childhood ­, it was no doubt a difficult decision, and one that hasn’t come cheaply. But with the commitment and hard work of the players, vital financial aid from a number of sponsors, and the support of Lagoa Câmara (who “never expected to have their own basketball team this year”, noted player and board member Sérgio Pastrana), the club is only just beginning its journey. Granted the use of the pavilion in Parchal and now headed up by Dário Valentim (sports director), Sérgio Pastrana 18 SPORT (responsible for the financial side/sponsorships) and Pedro Castanheiro (design and marketing), all of whom are also players, GD Lagoa Basquetebol already boasts more than 40 members, split between the senior team, Baby Basket and Mini Basket (both coordinated by Dário Lopes). Every Saturday from 10.30am, coaches Rita Martins, Pedro Castanheiro, Sergio Dumanskyy, André Marzagão and José Mendes teach the sport to children aged 3 to 6 in the Baby Basket and 6 to 12 in the Mini Basket, who play in gatherings with other clubs to also help nurture social development in a fun yet organised atmosphere. “We live in a very football-focused society and basketball is such a different sport,” says Sérgio Pastrana, whose son is taught by team-mate Pedro in the Baby Basket. “Boys and girls play together and the parents come to cheer them on. The kids love it when they try it for the first time!” But perhaps the most visible side of the club is the senior men’s team, coached by Dário Valentim and which comprises players aged 18 to late 30s, most of which are Portuguese but also of English, Cape Verdean, Ukrainian and even Spanish/Norwegian nationality. The colours may have changed but the team has remained, and their performance 19 2 SPORT is no less impressive. Now playing in the 1st division ­ the third tier of the sport in Portugal ­ and placed 5th of the 12 teams playing in the Zona Sul – Grupo B division, the team brandishing the hornet as its logo trains three times a week at the pavilion, and plays weekly during the season that runs from October to June. What the club has achieved so far is no small feat, not least because, as Sérgio is keen to emphasise, these are amateur players who receive no monetary compensation. “We are an amateur team. We pay to play while other teams in the division are paid to play. One of us is a bank manager, another a nurse, another a swimming teacher, we have families, personal lives… Everything we do is pro bono.”

As Pedro Castanheiro explains: “For us it’s a passion more than anything. We usually say we are a group of friends, each with their own lives, who come together to play basketball.” For this reason, the sponsors have been vital in securing a future for the club that started, quite literally, with nothing. Officially named GD Lagoa/CLUB NAU, other important local sponsors include Primavera restaurant, Slide & Splash and Podosaúde, but ongoing costs mean the club is constantly looking for more sponsors and those all-important donations. “This year has been about organising and establishing ourselves. The important thing now is to promote the club and create its own identity,” notes Sérgio who, at 1.98m, is the team’s tallest player. Having already hosted the first International GD Lagoa Basketball Championship last September with teams from Portugal and Spain ­ which they hope will become an annual event ­, the team’s main goal has been to promote the sport as a whole, with training sessions open to anyone who wants to join in. “It’s all in the name of camaraderie and friendship,” said the team-members. “We want to do everything we can to play and create a club for future generations.” For more information, please find G.d. Lagoa Basquetebol on Facebook.

PHOTOS: JOANA ALCOCK

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FROM ITALY TO THE ALGARVE ­ INSIDE LOOKS AT THE METEORIC RISE OF THE NOSOLO GROUP

From its humble beginnings as a small ice cream parlour that opened on Portimão’s riverside in the early ’80s, today, you can’t visit the Algarve ­ and now Lisbon, for that matter ­ without seeing the Nosolo logo somewhere on your travels. It’s a name that’s on everyone’s lips, and one that has become synonymous with delicious pizzas, poolside cocktails and summer parties with the sand beneath your feet. With at least a dozen establishments specialising in everything from artisanal ice cream and authentic Italian pizzas to sophisticated settings with the best national and international DJs, the Nosolo Group is easily one of the most successful businesses in the country. But its roots, just like those of the three Italian brothers who created it, are right here in the Algarve. It all started when Marco Lorenzi, the middle brother of the three, left his home of Bergamo in Italy to open an ice cream parlour in his Portuguese mother’s hometown of Portimão in 1982. He called it Bella Italia, which prided itself on selling ice cream using artisanal methods and local ingredients.

As it became more successful, Marco built further infrastructures, including the Nosolo Gelato artisanal ice cream factory in Parchal, a defining move for the group that truly propelled the expansion of the brand and consolidated the market position of the Nosolo Group. It wasn’t long before his two brothers, Franco and Filippo, had joined him.

“They are something of a triumvirate, in that their strengths and personalities are very different but also complementary,” says Raphaël Jerónimo, franchising coordinator and Filippo’s right-hand man at the group’s headquarters in Lagoa. “Marco was the pioneer; he is the one with the vision and he usually has the final say in any decisions regarding changes in the brand (…). Franco, perhaps because he is the youngest, is more linked to the image, he has a bolder approach to advertising and social media, and is always looking to renew the image. He isn’t afraid to experiment. Filippo worked for many years and helped develop his father’s metalwork company in Bergamo and so has a more industrialised approach. He was the driving force behind the group’s reorganisation, the franchising and the professionalisation of all the different branches.”

It is this united front that has taken the group ­ formed officially in 2004 ­ to where it is today. Alongside Cletonina, the restaurant and wine cellar in Praia da Rocha which opened in 1985 and whose name is a combination of the Lorenzi brothers’ parents’ ­ Anacleto and Adelina ­, the original ice cream parlour grew to become Nosolo Italia Portimão.

The Nosolo Italia name soon expanded beyond the municipality, with locations in Albufeira Montechoro and Vilamoura Marina, and later at Portimão Marina and Albufeira Marina. A winning formula since its inception, the restaurant concept serves authentic Italian pizzas and pastas and other specialities, as well as snacks and the now-famous ice cream made using traditional Italian recipes from fresh, local produce and which, according to Raphaël, is the “base of the Nosolo pyramid”.

In the group’s mission to constantly innovate, the first NoSoloÁgua space opened on Falésia beach in Vilamoura in 2001 and became one of the hottest spots on the region’s summer party calendar. However, it was the opening of NoSoloÁgua Portimão five years later that placed the brand well and truly on the map. Considered the jewel in the Nosolo crown, the poolside setting of this restaurant and bar added a touch of glamour and sophistication to Portimão Marina. A location like few others in this part of the Algarve, with an oriental-inspired décor featuring furniture and decorative pieces imported from Southeast Asia, the restaurant offers an international à la carte menu, including Portuguese, French, Mexican and Japanese cuisine, as well as an extensive snack menu. With the private beach opened two years later, flaunting a beach-chic décor, loungers on the sand and the iconic Sunset Parties, both venues offer bright cocktails and laid-back vibes by day and flashy parties filled with famous faces by night. With the glamorous Água Moments in Vilamoura and a further two Nosolo Italia franchises in Lisbon, the future is still shining brightly for the Nosolo Group. But there is more than meets the eye, notes Raphaël, and there’s a whole other world “behind the curtain” that ensures the Nosolo machine runs smoothly. The nerve centre of the whole operation, the No Solo Lda headquarters in Lagoa deals with all the company’s logistics, from IT, accountancy and marketing to international purchasing and catering, and even has an industrial kitchen for some food preparation and recipetesting. “Logistically it means we can deal with all the front lines so that each unit can focus solely on the service and the clients,” explains the coordinator. All fresh produce comes from local and regional producers, and most of the furniture and tableware is Portuguese. However, in keeping with their philosophy that “you can’t fake authenticity”, products like real mozzarella, porcini mushrooms, pancetta and flour are all imported from Italy. And while the recipe is the same, each restaurant makes its own pizza base, with the group’s pizzaiolos having even received training at Italy’s pizza academy. But beside the strict quality control, the company also takes its social responsibility seriously and values its human capital.

According to Raphaël, Nosolo is a truly multicultural company and one that takes care of its own, with the opportunity of career progression a real prospect, providing job satisfaction and security in an industry that is notoriously seasonal. Looking to grow even further ­ although definite plans are yet to be confirmed ­, the Nosolo Group is a force to be reckoned with, driven in no uncertain terms by three brothers who have brought a taste of Italy to their mother’s homeland. “They might have fiery debates if they don’t agree on something, but to the rest of the world they are a common and united front,” sums up Raphaël. “Not many people can boast about working with family, especially for almost 33 years, and continue to grow. It’s a real achievement. There may be disagreements but the unit always prevails, and that has been true for 33 years.”

www.nosoloitalia.com | www.nosoloagua.com

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COLOURFUL AND LARGER THAN LIFE ­ THE FUN ARTWORK OF MADELEINE VAN KLEEF

When Madeleine van Kleef decides to do something, she does it. That much was clear when she gave up working as a secretary in her native Holland to become a beautician relatively late in life, just as it was clear when she suddenly decided to learn how to paint. Fast-forward nine years, during which time she moved to Portugal to be closer to her son’s young family, and Madeleine’s work has certainly made an impression. “I saw a nice, happy picture one day, full of colour, and I thought, ‘maybe I could do that’. I started taking lessons and looked on the internet for inspiration from different artists, and I just started painting.” W After selling her beauty farm in Holland and downsizing her business, it was her move to the Algarve that allowed her to dedicate more time to her painting. Madeleine’s work is incredibly distinctive, and her brightly coloured, full-figured characters enjoying good food, good wine and general merriment are always sure to raise a smile. And in truth, it’s not hard to see where Madeleine gets her inspiration from: “I love champagne!” she laughs. “It’s about people having a good time, friendship, drink, food, cake… My paintings are fun and colourful, everyone is having a good time. It’s what I would do!” With titles like Shall we party later?, Chocolate Party and Love is in the air, her bar and party-themed paintings in particular have been a huge hit. Using mostly acrylic, her medium of 37 2 choice, Madeleine’s subjects are generally portly with large eyes and mouths ­ “Small mouths aren’t funny. They have to be big and smiling” ­, depicted with details such as Portuguese wine, French Champagne, lobster, tea and cakes. “I started painting really fat ladies, but they have got slimmer over the years,” admits the artist, a true lady of leisure who paints at her home in Carvoeiro where she lives with her partner. Another series that has received much interest is ‘Bla Bla Bla’, a more French-chic style that’s “a bit more serious with slimmer women, but they do talk a lot”, explains Madeleine, who usually opts for red, black, white and grey in this particular series. Receiving various commissions, particularly of bar scenes ­ one such painting is currently hanging up at Carvoeiro Bar ­, her work has been displayed at the Arte Algarve gallery in Lagoa and was one of the most appealing stands at the gallery’s summer art exhibition along the quay at Ferragudo. “It’s great to see people walking past, stop, and suddenly a big smile appears on their face.” Having recently started taking lessons in oil-painting to “understand how to work with it”, Madeleine has also experimented with other styles, but admits she prefers her larger-than-life characters to more realistic portraits. When asked if moving to the Algarve has helped develop her work, Madeleine ponders for a moment: “In Holland everything is behind closed doors. Here, because of the weather, everyone is outside, they go to the beach, have parties…” She smiles, “I have a good time in Portugal”.

For more information, contact 912 061 936 or find Madeleine Art on Facebook.

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FERRAGUDO WELCOMES ARTE ALGARVE’S NEWEST GALLERY

If Rolf Osang were ever to open a new gallery, it would have to be something quite special to follow in the footsteps of Arte Algarve, whose artworks hang on the walls of ÚNICA, a working winery in Lagoa. Four-and-a-half years after it first opened, the gallery owner has finally found what he deemed to be the perfect place for a second exhibition centre: a quirky townhouse in the fishing town of Ferragudo. Officially opened in March, the new Arte Algarve gallery is housed in a building just off the main square, on Rua 25 de Abril, and its pretty façade conceals a spacious venue set across I three storeys. Inside, the ground floor comprises three divisions of different sizes, where much of the theme is dedicated to the Algarve and the Alentejo regions. Walking up the stone steps, a small hallway leads to four further divisions, all of which boast the same natural light, original hardwood floors, exposed bricks, comfy sofas and restored antique furniture that enhance the many artworks on display here. The paintings and portraits are hung in an original way ­ on metal frames that lend a workshop-feel to the gallery but which are also reminiscent of the town’s fishermen’s nets. The pièce de résistance, however, is a truly unexpected gem: the exterior terrace that extends across four different levels amidst the rooftops of Ferragudo. Offering a completely different perspective of the town, surrounded by chimneys and overlooked by one or two neighbouring cats, the outdoor area is also dotted with pretty and original artworks, from the stone sculptures in the newly planted garden and the metal insect sculptures placed on the walls, to the large wooden table that takes up most of the terrace which affords a pretty seating area with views of the bay. In all, there are around 15 artists represented here, all of different backgrounds but with connections to the region. “The Lagoa gallery is a fantastic, unique building, but we don’t get many tourists or passers-by. We thought we needed a second gallery in a beautiful place, with an authentic atmosphere and lots of individual travellers, and Ferragudo is truly the ideal place,” said gallery director Rolf Osang. While visitors got a first peek of the gallery at the vernissage on a sunny afternoon in March, where they enjoyed the wines from Quinta do Barradas and live music courtesy of Cory Sea, the gallery and its charming terrace will no doubt shine even brighter as the evenings get warmer. The Arte Algarve Ferragudo gallery is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 11am to 3pm and 6pm to 9pm, and until late during the summer months.

www.artealgarve.net 16

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Like many before him, and no doubt many after, Dutchman Ron Voskamp fell in love with Ferragudo the moment he laid eyes on this charming fishing town. And while this is where his business is based, in a tiny showroom right on the main square, it is not Ferragudo he is promoting, but the mountain town of Monchique, more specifically, its spring water. The natural springs of Caldas de Monchique, the only termas in the Algarve, have been frequented since Roman times thanks to the healing properties of the water. In fact, the name Monchique comes from mons siccus, meaning ‘thirsty mountain’ in Latin. Thousands of years later, one company is harvesting the benefits of this magic potion in its skincare range, suitably named Monchique Cosmetics. From masks, scrubs, peelings and foot and hand cream to bath products, eye cream, serums and makeup remover, presented in an elegant blue and white packaging, the products all share a common link: Monchique’s very own H2O. But this is no ordinary water; it is a special combination of extremely pure H2O, free from bacteria and other contaminants, and which contains calming and smoothing properties. It is also extremely alkaline, reduces acidity in the body and neutralises free radicals. With two degrees ­ one in Engineering and another in Business Economics ­, Ron Voskamp had a physical and 40 mental breakdown around five years ago which made him decide to slow down and adopt a healthier lifestyle. It was during this process that he discovered the benefits attributed to alkaline water: although not scientifically proven, some experts believe it has antioxidant properties, helping to control hormones and even prevent cancer. It was therefore a surprise for the businessman that he could buy alkaline water from Monchique directly from the Algarve’s supermarkets when he came to the region around two years ago to write a book. It wasn’t long before Ron met fellow compatriot Agnes Hesselink, who has more than 20 years’ experience heading a Dutch skincare development and production company, and who had already discovered the benefits associated to the Portuguese water. With products for all ages and skin types, for both men and women, Monchique Cosmetics is “one of the purest ranges of cosmetics”, according to the director, and offers products that can be used at home, as well as in treatments at selected salons and spas. However, the products aren’t only based on Monchique water, but also on a well-known local fruit, which, curiously, is also drunk in the form of fire water ­ medronho. These two components are the key elements of a complex made from five ingredients, which dramatically improves skin’s hydration and which is the base of all the brand’s products ­ MIH5, the Monchique Intensive Hydration 5 Complex. “The powerful medronho extract is rich in the antioxidant vitamins C and E, which protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and allow other ingredients to deeply penetrate the skin, and in omega-3 and 6 acids, which help reduce inflammation,” explains Ron, noting that the water’s fine molecular structure makes it Ron Voskamp easily absorbed by the body. Now living in Ferragudo, whose picturesque bay dotted with fishing boats had always been a dream location for the businessman, and embraced by the local community (every Saturday the Dutchman would play dominoes at the town’s senior citizens’ centre), it was only natural that the Monchique Cosmetics showroom would be here. While the space can be visited by appointment, the products can also be found in Caldas de Monchique and at the Vila Monchique shop, as well as at other selected locations 41 COSMETICS Ron Voskamp with Rui André across the Algarve. The idea is that in the future, the brand will be present countrywide, including the islands of Madeira and the Azores. According to the businessman, “I believe that with Monchique Cosmetics, we can contribute to people’s awareness of health and beauty, inside and out, and generate interest in Monchique and in Portugal, and thus contribute to tourism”. While the skincare line is produced in the Netherlands, the aim is to bring production to Monchique and provide employment for the local people. “It’s about shared values, and about promoting Monchique through these cosmetics,” he says. In this mission, the brand has an important partner: the president of Monchique Câmara, Rui André, who supports the project and to whom Ron and Agnes gave some of their products in a special launch box, made from the best Algarvean cork from Novacortiça. https://www.monchiquecosmeticsportugal.com 42

IS IT A BIRD? IS IT A PLANE? NO, IT’S A FLYBOARD jetpack that shoots you up into the air and lets you leap in and out of the water like a dolphin all sounds very futuristic, but it’s actually a pretty common sighting just off the beach at Praia da Rocha. It’s called flyboarding and it’s the latest watersport to arrive in the Algarve. “We have been selling jet skis in the Algarve for more than 20 years, so it made perfect sense for us to introduce flyboarding,” said Stefania Balzer, a former Aquabike world A champion and marketing coordinator of the Angel Pilot Group, the company that distributes the Flyboard here in the region. Based in Parchal, Angel Pilot was set up in 1991 by Stefania’s father, Alessandro Balzer, an Italian jet ski champion with his fair share of European and world jet ski titles. It was during one of these international competitions ­ the Jet Ski World Championship in China in 2011 ­ that the Angel Pilot team witnessed first-hand the presentation of the Flyboard, 23 2 ACTIVITY an ingenious device that attaches to a personal water craft ­ in this case a jet ski ­, and propels the rider into the air and through the water. It was clear from the start that flyboarding and Angel Pilot were the perfect fit. Invented by jet ski champion Franky Zapata, the Flyboard is similar to a wakeboard, where the rider’s feet are strapped into boots with jet nozzles underneath, which are connected to the jet ski’s turbine through a long hose. Using the power of the jet ski, the rider can be thrust up to a dizzying 14 metres into the sky. It took months of waiting for the legislation to be approved, but in August last year, Angel Pilot finally got the nod to provide this unique experience to clients across the Algarve. As well as being the region’s official distributors of the Flyboard, the company also has three certified instructors who can teach clients how to manoeuvre this state-of-the-art equipment. “It’s a great sensation. At first it can be a bit nerve-racking but you soon get the hang of it!” says a smiling Stefania, who is one of the certified instructors to take clients out to their official flyboarding spot just by the mole at Praia da Rocha. “At the beginning it’s that feeling of being up high and seeing everything from a different perspective, you get a feeling of freedom. Then when you get the hang of it and move around a bit better, you can have lots of fun.” Open to anyone over the age of 16, Stefania notes that some people are quicker to pick it up than others. “Some people can get up high very quickly, others take a little longer to adapt. It has to do with the balance and the person’s understanding of how it works. You have to straighten your legs when it starts up, but for some reason there’s a natural tendency to bend your knees and that makes it harder. There are those who catch on to that straight away and those who don’t.” 24 SPORT Once you have commanded the technique and gained some height ­ during these ‘courses’, the maximum height you can reach is four metres ­, you can start doing twists and turns and dive like a dolphin into the water. More practised riders can do flips, spins, back-flips and other aerial stunts, with a number of professional flyboarding competitions already taking place around the world (the first Flyboard World Championships took place in Qatar in 2012). But for beginners and amateurs, the courses led by the Angel Pilot team sees groups of at least four people heading out to Praia da Rocha to try their hand at the region’s latest watersport. After receiving a briefing on the boat, during which time the team prepares the equipment on the jet ski, clients are given a life jacket and helmet, and a wetsuit when it’s colder, for the experience which lasts 20 minutes. “As long as people follow our instructions, there are no dangers at all,” assures Stefania. The legislation is also somewhat limiting, according to the marketing coordinator, and requires that a boat accompanies all the courses, which must take place outside the sea walls, making it particularly challenging in the winter months. However, it means that those who don’t want to try flyboarding can still join in, take pictures and enjoy a few hours out on the boat. While the 90 price tag makes it a more special experience, Angel Pilot offers reduced prices for large groups, and has created gift vouchers for the summer which are perfect as a birthday present.

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ARMED WITH SPRAY CANS AND AN EYE FOR DETAIL, STEPHEN JONES IS SET ON CHANGING THE IDEA OF GRAFFITI FOR THE BETTER

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It may have a negative connotation usually associated to vandalism but, wall by wall, Lagoa resident Stephen Jones is slowly changing people’s perception of graffiti. “Graffiti isn’t just tags and scribbles,” says the 22-year-old artist, “and the only way for people to understand that is to make beautiful, appealing graffiti that they enjoy looking at, and gradually they will start having a different perception of it.” One work that is certainly going some way to achieve that is the mural of Carvoeiro beach, created from a photograph taken by local photographer Jorge Fonseca on the side of a house, which welcomes visitors driving in through Rua dos Pescadores. This is the first of many projects that Stephen has done in collaboration with the União das Freguesias de Lagoa e Carvoeiro, a clear sign that the latest local council is certainly keeping up with the times.

But how did this once sleepy fishing village become a canvas for colourful spray paints? Much of it, says Stephen, is down to word of mouth. Having collaborated on some graffiti commissions ­ his work can be seen at J BarBara bar and the Carvoeiro scouts’ headquarters, with a Jungle Book theme ­, he was later approached to do other projects individually, such as the tropical theme at Charly’s Bar. And whilst much of his work can be seen elsewhere, from a BMX track in Quarteira to a portrait of Salvador Dali at the Satori art association in Salir, it is Lagoa council itself that is helping to place its home-grown artist in the spotlight. “It was one Carnival when I helped paint some of the floats for the Carvoeiro parade. People spoke about it, word got out of the work I had been doing and when the local authorities changed, they wanted to do something new.”

Following the Carvoeiro mural, other substantial municipal projects are already underway. In the south entrance of Lagoa, by the EN125 roundabout towards Estombar and Portimão, a wall has been earmarked for Stephen to paint some of the city’s most important landmarks, such as the convent, the market and the church, whilst on the opposite side of Lagoa, towards Silves, the graffiti artist is portraying the late Fernando Rodrigues, Lagoa’s most important potter, as part of a theme dedicated to pottery. But whilst nowadays, Stephen, whose father is English and mother is Portuguese, works alongside the council, in his youth, his artistic work wasn’t quite so legal. Experimenting with graffiti from the age of nine or ten, during his teens he set aside the spray cans and dedicated more time to skateboarding. In need of money to buy new boards, he turned to tennis coaching, a sport in which he had excelled for many years, before finding his vocation as a street artist. With no formal artistic training, besides drawing a lot in his childhood, most of his commissioned work follows a specific brief, but, left to his own devices, Stephen says he enjoys doing faces and landscapes. “I get a certain feeling when I first look at a face, and if I pay attention to that feeling, I keep painting until I can achieve that same feeling.” It’s frustrating work, even for this laid-back artist who admits that, when he starts a new project, he never knows how it will come out. Aside from graffiti, he also spends much of his time sketching, and he does many portraits with pen and paper.

Finding inspiration “in life, in everything” and working better during introspective moments, Stephen notes that the advantage of graffiti is that it can be done anywhere, but he wants to showcase more of his work in public spaces to reach a wider audience. In fact, his goal is to make people who are walking by stop dead in their tracks. “In the faces, I try to create an expression, an intense, profound look, that’s something of a shock, one that’s able to create a moment of silence and make people think.” His dream, however, goes further than that: “I would love to do buildings; the whole side for everyone to see,” he smiles. But is Lagoa council ready for that? “Not all of a sudden. It’s a big shock, but bit by bit, people are seeing this type of work and they’re starting to accept it.”
To see more of Stephen Jones’s work, check out his Facebook page.

SHAPING THE NEXT GENERATION OF FOOD AND BEVERAGE PROFESSIONALS: MEET THE HOSPITALITY AND TOURISM SCHOOL OF PORTIMÃO

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Tourism is without a doubt the backbone of the Algarve’s economy, sustained by luxury hotels and quality bars and restaurants that provide the finest standards of gastronomy and service. For that, in the most part, we can thank the much-acclaimed Hospitality and Tourism School in Portimão. Created in 1970 ­ the third in the country and second in the region ­ on the city’s riverside, at a time when the Western Algarve was desperate for a vocational training centre, the school moved premises as it grew in student body and reputation. Today, the Escola de Hotelaria e Turismo de Portimão (EHT Portimão) is located in the Pedra Mourinha area of the city, and retains its status as one of the best hospitality schools in the country. Part of the school network of the national tourism authority Turismo de Portugal, EHT Portimão comprises two blocks ­ one dedicated to administration and management, with an IT room and library, and the other holding the classrooms, technical lab areas such as kitchen and demonstration restaurant and bar, and students’ bar. There’s also a residence during term-time that’s open to students who live more than 50km away from the school, or who don’t have any possible means of transportation. Although the building wasn’t purpose-built, the school’s director, Pedro Moreira, is the first to note that it hasn’t held them back: “After all, within the culture we want to develop, our motto is to transform challenges into opportunities.” It’s this attitude, paired with the highest training standards delivered by experienced tutors who are also leaders in their field, that attracts pupils from around the country to train at this centre of excellence on the Algarvean coast. The school offers two course levels: the Level IV Dual Certification Courses, such as Cooking and Pastry Techniques, aimed at under-25s who have completed 9th grade and want to gain vocational training whilst also completing their school education; and Level V Technological Specialisation Courses for those looking for an alternative to higher education. The school’s “speciality”, however, which has produced some of the country’s finest hospitality professionals, is the Level V Hospitality Management – Food & Drink (Gestão Hoteleira Restauração e Bebidas). The jewel in the school’s crown, this specialist course sets out to produce well-rounded and highly skilled F&B professionals, with reallife practical training alongside subjects such as cost-control, menu engineering and marketing. “All the courses are complementary, particularly on the practical side ­ those who cook need someone to serve what they create, and those who wait need something to serve,” explains Pedro Moreira, who is also the director of the Hospitality and Tourism School of the Algarve, in Faro.

Everything in the school, he emphasises, is made by the pupils, guided and overseen by the tutors. In fact, every day is a real-life scenario for the students at EHT Portimão, from the impeccable uniforms (the men must also be clean-shaven and all visible piercings removed) to the typical codes of conduct followed by any prestigious hotel unit. “Our motto is almost military in its approach: ‘Train hard, fight easy’. The more accustomed our students are to the correct rules and regulations, the easier it is to follow the highest standards of hospitality elsewhere.” Of course, this approach is put into practice daily with “reallife” customers, as the school’s restaurant is open for lunch to outside visitors, with a set three-course menu (including wine, coffee and water) available from just 12.50 (booking advisable). Special menus can also be created by request. But it’s not just within the school walls that the pupils get their training. Whilst EHT Portimão can provide kitchen and waiting teams for any private event upon request (and where logistics allow), the school also has important partnerships with the region’s leading hotels and provides staff where needed. For Vila Joya’s prestigious International Gourmet Festival, for example, EHT pupils were drafted to support the world’s best chefs. “It’s a huge advantage for our students, but I also feel it’s an advantage for our partners who benefit from the youth and professionalism that our students bring,” believes the director.

However, there is no better representation of the school’s teaching excellence than the alumni itself. Some of the region’s best bartenders, waiters, cooks and pastry chefs were trained here, and a number of former students are now executive chefs, F&B directors and department managers at leading restaurants and hotels, both here in Portugal and abroad. In fact, the school prides itself on including many former pupils ­ and now industry leaders ­ in their faculty, to ensure the continued excellence of EHT Portimão. “Of course we’re not bound by the values from 1970, but this mixture of incorporating former students and new people who come in with a different outlook and new input of the market ensures that we truly have a very strong, very cohesive and very upto-date culture,” says Pedro Moreira, himself a former pupil here who progressed rapidly through the ranks at Penina Hotel before deciding to dedicate his life to teaching.

Noting that the industry recognises the skills and professionalism of EHT pupils countrywide, the Algarve director notes that demand remains high for these highly trained individuals. After all, that is the ultimate goal of these schools: “Our motivation is of course the employability and success of our students, and when they come back to tell us about their experience here and how it helped them with their professional success, it’s hugely rewarding,” admits Pedro Moreira. “That is exactly what we work for, to know that they have done well professionally and that they recognise the school was important in their lives.”

www.escolas.turismodeportugal.pt/escola/ escola-de-hotelaria-e-turismo-de-portimao

JEWELLER NUNO LOPES CREATES PIECES THAT ARE JUST LIKE THE PEOPLE WHO WEAR THEM: ONE OF A KIND

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We first spotted Nuno Lopes at the Fatacil fair in Lagoa, working away on a piece of silver as a couple of children stood by, mesmerised. We later found out that some of these children return to his stand, year after year, to watch the jeweller at work, and often get a simple band as a reward for their curiosity. For Nuno, it’s not just about promoting his work ­ beautiful one-of-a-kind pieces designed by his fair hand: “I remember coming here as a kid and losing myself in the crafts tents. I loved watching the artisans at work, so it makes me proud when children come here and ask me questions.”

Although his love of arts and crafts stems from his childhood, jewellery wasn’t his full-time vocation. Originally from Portimão, Nuno admits he was influenced by social norms and enrolled at university to study the sensible but admittedly less artistic Agriculture and Animal Husbandry. He specialised in Aquaculture, a course he didn’t complete but which led him to work as a fish inspector in the capital. But jewellery would always be in the background ­ also prompted by a chance meeting with an Argentinian jeweller in Brazil ­, and it was in Lisbon that he took his first jewellery course at the age of 24. On his return south, however, he became disillusioned with where his life was going and, thanks to his Spanish girlfriend at that time, Carmen, who he credits for being the person that most helped him on his journey, he moved to Spain. He did several courses in jewellery and diamonds in Seville and studied gemology at the Spanish Gemological Institute in Madrid. After being invited to work in the centre’s workshop, in 2012, Nuno returned to his hometown of Portimão. At last, he was where he wanted to be: with a workshop set up in his parents’ garage and extensive training behind him, Nuno Lopes was free to create the signature pieces that have been making waves across the Algarve and beyond. Mostly working with silver and incorporating different stones, he describes his style as a reflection of his state of mind. Able to adapt to various styles, whether it’s classic or Art Deco, often his work showcases a more abstract and somewhat aggressive character that results in incredibly striking pieces. Whilst much of his jewellery is made by commission, Nuno says he often finds himself doing shells, conchs or corals, a reflection of his ties to the sea for much of his life. With beautiful collections comprising necklaces, bracelets and earrings, the jeweller admits he loves making rings, which have become something of a trademark. One thing is constant, though: each piece is the only one of its kind. “For me that’s very important. As most valuable pieces can be passed down from generation to generation, why would it be something that 300 other people have? Why not have your own, if you are unique and there’s no one like you?” For this reason, Nuno designs unusual collections that can be easily adapted to sell on the street. “If it’s affordable, you have the opportunity of having a unique piece, that’s your taste, that you can wear for the rest of your life and leave behind as a memento.” This, in fact, is what best defines Nuno’s work. They are pieces with soul that are quite simply yours and no one else’s.

Now moving more towards galleries ­ although the Fatacil will always be on his agenda ­, in the future, the self-confessed night owl hopes to design more extravagant collections for his own fashion shows, but in the meantime, his goal is to open up his own space, with Ferragudo and Carvoeiro at the top of the list. Here, he plans to use his (fortunate) initials, NL, for his next venture: Número Limitado, to make a numbered series limited to eight or ten pieces, which will put into practice the techniques he learned from his “excellent teachers”.

Find Nuno Lopes Joyas on Facebook or visit the Arrecadação da Luz jewellery shop in Praia da Luz which carries the exclusive collection ‘Às Voltas’.

RSR WANTS TO PROVE THE PORTIMÃO CIRCUIT IS A WORLD-CLASS RACETRACK THAT CAN BE USED ALL YEAR LONG

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Ron Simons is a happy Dutchman. After racing everything from single seaters to Group C cars, he thought it would be a good idea to teach others how to do it. First he served as expert instructor for Porsche and Ferrari during the Noughties, and then decided it was time for his own enterprise, opening Ron Simons Racing in 2002. RSRNürburg was his first company, using the Nürburgring circuit in Germany as basis for his track car rentals and driver instruction programmes. For more than a decade now he has hosted several events for brands such as Dunlop, Lotus or Nissan and more than 1,000 people every year use his services. In 2009 he expanded his business, opening RSRSpa at the historic Spa-Francorchamps racetrack, a mere 100km away from Nürburg. Spa and Nürburgring are two fantastic tracks, some will even say the best in the world, but they do have a small problem: they are located in places where the sun doesn’t often make an appearance and snow, ice or heavy rain are not the best elements in which to race performance cars, not least when they are in the hands of fairly inexperienced drivers. And so, RSR is coming south and wants to make Portimão its home during the winter months, allowing customers to keep enjoying their cars when Spa and Nürburgring are next to impossible to drive on. RSRIberia made its début in late November, with a five-day event that began in Portimão and then proceeded to the Ascari Race Resort, near Malaga, Spain. Inside was there to see what the fuss was all about and came away with the distinct feeling that RSRIberia might just be what the Portimão Circuit needs to gain more awareness and make the Algarve a place of excellence for automotive tourism. So what about the cars? Well, Ron brought along some of his, including a 911 Porsche GT3, a Nissan GT-R, a BMW M3 V8, a Porsche Cayman S, a Renault Mégane RS 265 and several Lotus Exige and BMW E46 M3 race cars. Then there were some interesting customer cars, including the ex-Michael Schumacher Mercedes SLS AMG or the two McLaren 12C brought by the McLaren Driving Experience themselves. All in all, RSRIberia had more than 50 cars and 300 people involved in this first event on our peninsula. We spent so much time talking to Ron that we barely had any time to drive. Eventually we chose the new Porsche 911 GT3. We didn’t spend a lot of time at the wheel, but it was enough to see this is the most spectacular model of the current 991 generation. This is a truly fantastic piece of machinery.

The next event will take place in February 2015, with a component aimed at classic car lovers, but meanwhile, with some of the most spectacular cars at our disposal, just a mere phone call away, there are a number of packages on offer, depending on whether you want to rent a car from RSR or bring your own, book a hotel, race on one or both tracks, or simply opt for driver instruction. It’s hoped that Ron and the people at the Autódromo Internacional do Algarve can strengthen a partnership that will boost automotive tourism in the region and make the Portimão race track a centre of excellence for driving lovers, offering the best driving courses and track day programmes in Europe.

www.autodromodoalgarve.com

THE ALGARVE’S BELOVED BRANDY AND HONEY LIQUEUR CHANGES ITS NAME, BUT NOT ITS TASTE

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Those who love their liqueurs and have visited or lived in the Algarve at one time or another will almost certainly know the name Brandymel. Made since 1955 in Portimão by the local Cristina family and winner of many international prizes, the brandy and honey tipple has recently seen a bureaucratic detail strip it of its name. Now re-branded as Dom Cristina ­ in honour of the company’s founder Oliveiros Cristina ­, the family business is strongly set on getting the word out that, although the name has changed, “everything else is the same”. “This all happened after my father died,” David Cristina, 67, told Inside. “The brand was solely registered to my father, Oliveiros Cristina, and when my father died in the early ’80s, the brand had to be re-registered. However, I didn’t know that when I took over the business, and the warning letter that supposedly was sent out by Portugal’s brand registration body never made it to us.”

Unknowingly, the brand continued unregistered for 17 years until someone came along and registered it for themselves. The family went to court in a case that dragged on for another 15 years or so, and lost. But, with a never-say-die attitude and intent on keeping this family legacy alive, the founder’s descendants saw it as a chance for the brand to reinvent itself. “We decided to breathe some fresh air into the brand,” said David Cristina. But the family’s recipe, he says, is “as delicious as always”. In the early years, the Cristina family business was mostly known for its soft drinks, with the original Brandymel ­ a deliciously sweet golden tipple made with water, alcohol, brandy, honey and natural plant extracts, aged for at least eight months in oak barrels ­ first produced to keep the business going during the winter. Soon, it had stolen the show. Once produced at the company’s factory in front of Gil Eanes square in Portimão (which the family hopes to turn into a museum), the liqueur is currently being bottled in Castelo Branco, in the north of Portugal, with plans to establish a new production base somewhere on the outskirts of its native Portimão. For the time being, however, the Cristina family is focused on marketing a special edition of their liqueur, which is being sold without a name but with a little booklet featuring a brief overview of its history, before it is officially re-branded as Dom Cristina. “I remember when I was just a boy, we’d walk into a café and I’d be so proud to see one of our liqueur bottles on the shelves,” said David’s son, also named David Cristina, who is now in charge of the family business. “This liqueur is something that has defined our family. We are not re-launching it to make money. We want to protect our family’s legacy, our recipe and our values.” Whilst many remember it fondly as a home remedy to help fight colds, the liqueur has also won many international prizes, including gold medals in 2005 and 2008 at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition in the US and in 2008 at the International Wine & Spirit Competition in the UK. Besides being a regional and national hallmark, the liqueur is exported to a number of places abroad, including the USA, Germany and Australia. Its upcoming edition, ‘Licor Sem Nome’ (Liqueur without a name), is already available across the country. “Basically, we just want to get our story out there, and let people know that the only thing that has changed is our name,” said the younger David. “Our liqueur is the same.”

INSIDE CARVOEIRO WAS PUT THROUGH ITS PACES AT PORTIMÃO’S OWN CROSSFIT BOX

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Looking up at the clock, there are five more reps still to squeeze in. As our arms threaten to give way beneath us, we glance around the room. There’s a distinct feeling that the words ‘giving up’ aren’t in these people’s vocabulary. Some are even smiling. It’s 7.45pm and we’re in a CrossFit class, an exercise concept and competitive fitness sport that has taken the world by storm, and one such army of followers is proud to call this box in Portimão home.

Set up by Pedro Nobre, an IT teacher turned personal trainer and fitness instructor who “heard about an innovative and comprehensive training concept” in his search for a more challenging workout, the CrossFit Portimão “box” was officially affiliated in 2013. Starting in a small room with just five people, the box went from strength to strength, first with a dedicated area at Village Fitness in Portimão, by then catering to more than 80 ‘athletes’, and then to a 200sqm warehouse in the industrial area near Aqua Shopping, its new home since December. Described on the official website as “the principal strength and conditioning programme for many police academies and tactical operations teams, military special operations units, champion martial artists, and hundreds of other elite and professional athletes worldwide”, CrossFit is a high-intensity workout created in 2000 by American coach Greg Glassman. Essentially, it’s a full-body programme that combines functional, dynamic and extremely varied exercises by integrating elements of cardio, weightlifting, plyometrics, core training and gymnastics. With the main goal of preparing you for the unexpected, CrossFit now has a legion of supporters worldwide, and the Algarve is no different. It’s tough. There’s no denying that. But then again, few fitness concepts boast such drastic improvements in as little as two weeks, according to Pedro, a CrossFit Level 1 Trainer who has judged CrossFit competitions both here and in the UK. “It’s about overall improvement and preparing the body for everyday situations, like picking up objects or running, or it can prepare you for something specific like a marathon, for example. People find they are more able in their day-to-day lives and wake up with more energy.” At the Portimão box, a world apart from a regular gym with barbells, kettlebells, climbing ropes, plyo boxes, gymnastic rings and even tractor tyres dotted around the place, there are daily CrossFit training sessions limited to eight people (Pedro recommends three sessions a week for the best results) which comprise the WOD (Workout of the Day), a set of exercises defined by Pedro, while Benchmark workouts allow athletes to track their progress. The On Ramp class is recommended for beginners to learn the basic exercises correctly (such as air squats, shoulder presses and deadlifts) while the Open Box is there for the athletes who compete in the many CrossFit competitions now taking place across the country. Besides these, there’s Oly, which focuses on Olympic lifting movements, Strength Training, CrossFit Endurance (run and bike) and Gymnastics, the first in the country to incorporate it in its box. At the new location, they also hope to combine the concept with the self-defence technique of Krav Maga.

While it does have its sceptics, the beauty of CrossFit, says Pedro, is that all exercises can be adapted to each individual, whatever age or sex, and there is always something to work towards or something new to try, whatever your level. “It translates into real life, from the 60-year-old doing handstands with the children to climbing a rope up a tree. It’s about feeling like kids again.” But it’s not just about the training. CrossFit has an incredibly strong community spirit and the social side is equally important to the Portimão coach. While in the box, the philosophy is to welcome and encourage others, outside they hold various monthly events, from lunches and dinners to bike rides and beach days. They also receive visits from athletes from other boxes, whether from Portugal or abroad ­ some to work out, others to simply pick up a t-shirt as a souvenir ­, and Pedro hopes to introduce CrossFit bootcamps, which would combine training, the Algarve’s climate and everything that comes with it.
CrossFit classes are available Monday to Saturday at CrossFit Portimão

www.crossfitportimao.com

POPULAR WITH SEAFOOD-LOVERS EVERYWHERE, THE CATAPLANA IS A REGIONAL CULINARY CLASSIC

Its appearance may be unusual, but the unique cataplana is a true symbol of the Algarve’s culinary tradition, and a delicious one at that. Named after the cookware in which it is prepared ­ a clam-shaped dish that’s traditionally made of copper ­, the cataplana is a typical Portuguese seafood dish whose origin is inextricably linked to the presence of Arabs from North Africa in the Algarve many centuries ago. A relative of the North African tagine and a forerunner of the modern pressure cooker, the cataplana comprises two clamshells joined by a hinge, which clamp down to seal the dish hermetically so the food is steam-cooked in its own juices. Originally made from zinc, the utensil was later produced in copper by master craftsmen, which is credited with distributing the heat evenly and giving the contents their special flavour. Nowadays, the cataplana can also be made of stainless steel. Inside, delicious Mediterranean flavours abound, with traditional ingredients including clams, prawns and fish cooked in an aromatic stew base of tomatoes and peppers. An extremely versatile dish, there are many versions of the cataplana here in the Algarve, but a particularly delicious recipe comprises monkfish, prawns, clams, Portuguese chouriço sausage and a medley of fresh, bright vegetables, all perfectly seasoned. The dish can be made with alternative ingredients, such as octopus, cod or even meat added to the clams and prawns, but the ideal accompaniment is always a good white or green wine. For the recipe, we recommend using a high-quality, medium to large cataplana dish, which can be purchased at any handicraft shop.

PORTUGUESE HERITAGE HAS NEVER BEEN SO STYLISH, THANKS TO PORTIMÃO-BASED LIPSCANI

The day we met Mariana Pires, she was wearing one of her own designs. “I’m replacing my wardrobe, bit by bit,” explains the petite brunette. Although she doesn’t sell her clothes just yet, the 22-year-old designer is already making waves with her beautiful accessories, which have been gracing the pages of national magazines since the brand was founded in 2010.

Named Lipscani after a neighbourhood in Romania – “I wanted a simple name, with no great meaning and that was easy to pronounce, and I remembered the neighbourhood I had visited with a strong Art Nouveau influence,” says Mariana –, the store was created in 2010 by her mother Gina in Portimão.

With 25 years of experience in the jewellery industry, Gina Pires initially opened the store with her Dutch husband Martin as a jewellers, where she would make striking pieces full of colour, often using filigree combined with semi-precious stones. Bringing in customers from outside the city – whether for bespoke items or to “recycle” their existing jewellery – and a favourite of various public figures, the jewellery is often featured in national magazines.

But jewellery is not the only thing that Gina does well. The proud mother is also an expert at singing her daughter’s praises, often downplaying her own work to focus on Mariana’s talents. She does have a point though: enrolling in fashion school aged just 15 after a teacher spotted her potential, Mariana has quickly become a name to be reckoned with on the fashion scene.

Recognised as “the girl who makes bags with doors on them” after appearing on national television, the young designer joined her mother at Lipscani – thus fulfilling Gina’s dream of making it a family business – in 2011 and started making the most beautiful shawls, each one inspired by the rich history and culture of Portugal and the beauty of 20th-century architecture, especially “the Belle Époque to Art Deco”. “Having travelled so much made me value Portugal even more and seek my roots once again. I love to work with emotional values,” explains Mariana, who, according to her mother, had a passion for fabrics and drawing ever since she was a toddler. Each shawl is named after the pattern, handdrawn by Mariana from memory of things she sees every day. “I wanted to gather elements that are common to all our childhoods, our everyday lives, but I don’t like literal interpretations of what it is to be Portuguese. I don’t work with photos, and I think that gives the drawings a less conventional appearance.”

From gramophones, street lamps and fado singers to her trademark verandas, these quirky shawls were this year joined by Lipscani’s first complete collection of handbags and, usually, customers won’t buy one without the other. It’s fair to say the collection has been a hit. The shoppers, made from polyester and waterproof and heat sensitive, each tell a story, from the balcony filled with plants across from Mariana’s sister’s house to the “ugly” building in Setúbal that the designer has transformed into an amusing accessory. The adorable satchels, skillfully crafted in layers of satin and leather and with the option of being personalised, have almost sold out, with a waiting list proving just how popular these unusual handbags are. All the items are made right here in Portugal by skilled artisans (the satchels, for example, are made in the same factory used by Louis Vuitton) with Portuguese materials, closely overseen by Mariana herself. It hasn’t been an easy journey though, they explain, with many factories unwilling to produce such small orders. Today, however, the bags, scarves and jewellery have a very special home in the bright and colourful Lipscani store on Portimão’s main shopping street, Rua do Comércio.

For sure a rising star on the Portuguese fashion scene, Mariana, who splits her time between Lisbon and the Algarve, is a perfectionist whose passion for print and design has already brought her a loyal following. Launching a limited edition line of cushions at Christmas, Mariana hopes to organise a fashion show sometime next year with her own couture designs and visit Europe’s leading fairs to promote the brand. Lipscani is also available at selected stores in Lisbon and France, as well as through the online shop at www.lipscani.pt