Category: Must Read

  • The black cat of Silves

    The black cat of Silves

    A secret adults-only culinary escape in the countryside

    Take two passionate young Italians, a love of rural living, a taste for all things delicious, a valley of orange groves and cats, and you’ve got Gato Preto de Silves.

    Just a little inland from the stunning old Moorish capital of the Algarve, Silves, lays a secluded, luxurious and adults-only B&B with guest cabins occupying a tranquil spot in the heart of the countryside. Inside met with owners Gloria and Matteo for a beautiful home-cooked breakfast and tour around the property. The driveway gives you a sneak preview of what awaits you thanks to the mature and well-kept gardens with only the noise of the birds chirping, which instantly provide the feeling of relaxation. “Our B&B is a rural retreat made for long evenings and lazy mornings. Here, we have a pool and hammocks for relaxing,” Matteo explains. “Breakfast is a slow affair, showcasing regional cuisine and served either at the tables under the shade of the pergola or on the guests’ private terraces. The garden and verandas are the perfect places to while away the hours or even an entire day.”

    The couple moved to Silves some 10 years ago and have been busy creating their vision of tranquillity and comfort away from the stresses of modern life. There are currently two luxurious cabins, with plans in place for a third. They are located in the garden in secluded positions to ensure privacy, with terraces, fully equipped kitchenette and a glorious view over the sprawling orange groves. Gloria and Matteo took great care when designing everything, and this is particularly evident in the cabins. They didn’t go for the easy options when choosing finishes, with details such as a very charming little window that’s been carved into the kitchenettes that gives the feeling of being at one with the countryside. Each guest accommodation has its own theme, with the two cabins picking local accents, incorporating Moorish and beach styles. Within the main villa, there are three guest suites, which are spacious and airy, all with private outdoor space and amenities. All rooms have been fitted with air-conditioning and have floor-to-ceiling windows to make sure guests are always connected to their environment.

     

    The heart of the property has to be the beautiful pool area, with big mature trees offering shade from the soaring summer temperatures and the communal outdoor dining spaces, where guests can enjoy chatting and stargazing in the evening. There’s a two-bedroom villa complete with its own pool adjacent to the B&B, but this is a self-catering option and is also adults only. All suites, cabins and the villa come with everything you could need to enjoy a peaceful stay.

    The couple also runs a variety of tailor-made gastronomic and tour-based activities that they’ve moulded together with a few hand-picked suppliers to ensure the best possible experiences and quality. The tours enable guests to set off into the hills on an electric bike and enjoy a delicious picnic in the wilderness or take a very Algarvean cataplana cookery course. Another popular experience includes a packed day to discover Silves and its local bounty, the humble orange, with lots of stops along the way to recharge and enjoy some local treats. There is also a “meet the farmer” tour, where guests can really get in touch with some local characters and see how the Algarvean way of life was in the not so distant past. It’s an ideal starting point for outdoor programmes such as hiking along the Via Algarviana trail, bike rides and off-road activities into the dams. Back at Gato Preto de Silves, on Thursdays, Gloria produces a homemade dinner with delicious and traditional food, creating an exclusive menu inspired by Algarvean cuisine with an Italian touch. All the ingredients are locally sourced and usually from the Silves market in the city. The couple recently acquired a ruin at the bottom of the property, where Gloria will work her magic with her authentic cookery and private dining workshop.

    Driven by their love for quality travel, adventure and cuisine, Gloria and Matteo bring their personal flair to their ever-growing piece of heaven in the Algarve. Silves is undergoing somewhat of a facelift recently, with people dedicating their energies to promoting rural tourism. Only a 15 minutes’ drive from Lagoa and touristy villages of Ferragudo and Carvoeiro, you will find yourself transported back in time, to a simpler and more authentic Portugal. Boasting a spectacular castle, winding river and beautiful old buildings, Silves is the perfect off-season destination.

    Text Mia Wallace
    Photos Chloe Ophelia

    O Gato Preto de Silves

  • A feast for the eyes

    A feast for the eyes

    Inside Carvoeiro took a tour around the area to find out what’s new on the dining scene

    We are blessed with an abundance of excellent eateries in this small part of the Algarve — with more than 100 just in Carvoeiro, we are already spoiled for choice. Inside ventured around over the winter to find some exciting new restaurants that are bound to become local favourites in no time. Here, you’ll find a brief overview from Carvoeiro to Silves for your to-do list.

    TOURIGA WINE & DINE
    CARVOEIRO


    A stunning, stylish new wine and dining venue at the top of restaurant hill, here you’ll find a very comfortable space with tasty, mostly tapas-style treats and a few main dishes. Owner Jorge has been collecting wines for years and has a magnificent selection of Portuguese wines. The front-of-house staff has been rigorously trained and is extremely professional and pleasant, always happy to share their knowledge. There is comfortable seating either inside at the bar, dining area or outside on the terrace.

    LEVELS
    CARVOEIRO


    Formally Piu Grand Cafe and Martins Grill on the main square, Levels will be a beach-side oasis with a mixture of Asian and European décor. A full renovation of the old 1980s building will see massive glass frontage to take total advantage of its highly privileged location. We had a sneak preview, and it looks incredible. The menu will focus on quality, and popular Portuguese grilled dishes will feature heavily. Trained barista staff will be on hand to prepare excellent coffees for visitors, and each of the three levels will offer different experiences. The cherry on the cake is the Sky Bar with cocktails and sharing platters during regular service and private dining for up to 20 guests for special occasions.

    BAUSHI SUSHI & BAR
    CARVOEIRO

    A brand new concept for Carvoeiro, Baushi Sushi & Bar is due to open in the summer in the old Ele & Ela on Rua do Barranco, serving the finest quality sushi and Japanese drinks with special lunch, evening and tasting menus. Patricia, a trained sushi chef, will be working her magic in the kitchen and Ivo, previously from Inside Cocktail bar, will be putting his years of mixology to good use, creating fabulous Japanese-inspired cocktails.

    GASPACHO & MIGAS
    LAGOA


    There’s a significant regeneration going on in Lagoa, and this city bistro-style eatery is creating quite the storm in the usually sleepy town. You’ll find this lovely place between the Council building and the healthcare centre (centro de saúde). With a bold and stylish décor with dark accents and bright lighting inside, there is also an airy covered terrace, perfect for watching the world go by. The menus are varied and bring a lot of older and sometimes forgotten Portuguese produce into their modern dishes. The restaurant boasts high-quality ingredients, friendly service and comfortable surrounding and lunchtime specials, a lighter menu and a full evening menu offer something for everyone. To top it all off, the wine list features mostly local labels and is well paired.

    O CAIS
    SILVES

    O Cais is run by owners Nuno and Zane, who returned from Ireland to create their dream restaurant by the river and the municipal market. Traditionally clad walls, stylish furnishings and fixtures with some modern touches blend in well in this ancient building, complete with an internal well. Nuno is passionate about meats, and the selection is good with a delicious venison steak to complement the otherwise beef-centric main courses. The starters are varied and rich with a good variety of fish and cheese dishes, and Zane makes great desserts.

    MOSAIKO
    SILVES


    On the main pedestrian street of Silves, you’ll find a gorgeous Moroccan patio, straight out of a riad. The menu features tagines, couscous dishes, moussaka, charcoal-grilled kebabs, koftas, falafels and hummus. The perfect place to enjoy some calm moments and eastern treats, the restaurant’s décor is bright and perfectly in keeping with the city’s Moorish past.

    COMPROMISSO
    SILVES


    Another surprise in the usually traditional and sleepy Silves is this Mediterranean-inspired café/restaurant/lounge bar. An industrial loft space meets a large dining venue, perhaps more something that you would expect to find in an urban city. The menu leans more towards the Italian side, with pasta, pizzas and grilled dishes, although they do have some Portuguese dishes. They offer a pleasant two-course lunch menu for €12.50, including a drink. Live music and events also take place during the season.

    AL-GOSTO
    SILVES


    Up a side street from the river heading to the pedestrian street lays this little vegan and vegetarian restaurant. Generally open during the day, Al-Gosto serves a vegan/veggie lunch buffet and an à la carte menu, with everything made on site. Homemade drinks and cakes are a big favourite here too, and there’s always find a fresh new creation coming out of the kitchen.

    O CANTO
    FERRAGUDO
    With Venezuelan chef Jimmy Cruz still at the pass, the changes here are more with a new menu and a facelift in the dining areas. The new menu features a great mixed tapas sharing platter, octopus carpaccio, big salads, a juicy surf and turf and fish dishes with the chef’s signature flair along with a selection of vegetarian options. They will be opening from 10am for coffee and pastries then serving food throughout the day. Watch out for their fun theme nights and lots of new additions along the way.

    At the time of going to print, there were more new places that, unfortunately, we couldn’t feature as they were in various stages of building work and/or finalising names. Watch out for Chef Antonio’s opening under new management, which promises be an exciting addition, according to the new owners. Ele & Ela are in the midst of finalising their new venue — keep an eye on Chef’s Kitchen Facebook page for information on that. Chef Raquel Marques left O Rafaiol restaurant and has opened The Square in Monte Carvoeiro. This fine-dining venue has modern décor, a large terrace and a great menu. O Rafaiol has reverted to the original management of the owners Osvaldo and Peggy, who have opened again and will return to their more traditional style of dining. Luisa’s Place in Sesmarias is changing management and will now be run by Harry who you may know from years ago in Happy’s and Carvoeiro Bar. In Ferragudo, Kitty and Ton of Amigos catering are opening a cool little spot serving breakfast, lunch, tapas and drinks next to O Canto.

    Bom apetite!

    Text Mia Wallace
    Photos ©Chloe Ophelia
  • Karma Skincare

    Karma Skincare

    It’s what’s on inside that counts

    At the age of 40 and still battling with her skin, Lesley decided to leave her life in finance and retrain in the beauty industry, where she began studying therapies and ingredients. She was shocked, as most of us are when we start to think about what we are actually being sold in the pretty packaged bottles. The inclusion of, more often than not, bovine, fish or porcine sources, preservatives and chemicals isn’t really what human skin needs. The multi-billion-euro beauty industry works tirelessly to convince us of the next must-have, miracle cream when we should be looking back to our friend, Mother Nature for help.

    The mainstream creams and lotions are mostly not vegan-friendly, kosher or halal, but more importantly, they can be damaging, as Lesley found out: “My skin was making a cry for help with the acne and fine lines. After some tests, I discovered I was allergic to many of the chemical components. Nearly all skincare products are made from the same ingredients, so that made me wonder if I could create skincare products without chemicals.”

    On completing her Aromatherapy and Advanced Aromatherapy exams, a journey of wholesome discovery and many years of research and development began. Soon after, Lesley came to the Algarve in 2010, in search of a better, more relaxed lifestyle where she continued building her boutique skincare manufacturing business, Karma Skincare.

    “Karma Skincare is a vegan, gluten-free range of products, which is created with only pure, natural ingredients. Everything that I use in my products is halal-compliant and very importantly, palm oil-free. I only use the power of plants and minerals to improve your skin. If you put something good on your skin, then it will respond and glow. If you use chemicals or animal-derived ingredients, your skin will complain and cause you problems.”

    Speaking to Inside at Sisters Hairdressing Salon, in Alvor, Lesley explained her process: “I source all of the ingredients myself and make countless batches before finding the right balance. After some field studies, I send new products to a UK laboratory for clinical testing and certification.” The Karma Skincare range is continuously growing, with a full-face range, highly acclaimed insect repellent and after-bite products, and one of her best-sellers, the Magnesium and Aloe rub — one client wrote that muscle and joint swelling went down in a day following using, whereas the hospital said it could take six months. Having heard so many good reviews, it was time to try Karma Skincare for ourselves. At the entrance of the salon, the full range is on display, with the facial products, Karma Cleanse, Karmatone, Karma Hydrating / Karma Renewal, the bestselling Karma Skin Tightening Intensive facial oils and Karma Night cream. Just to the side, the body range is on display with three very popular products, the Buzz Free and After Bug gels and the soothing rub.

    Downstairs, in Lesley’s therapy room, there’s a selection of products and a treatment bed where I had an amazing Instant Boost Mini Facial, using the full day-care range along with a soothing chamomile oil and French clay mask. The facial was incredibly relaxing, and the products smelled fantastic. Lesley also used the Magnesium and Aloe rub on my shoulders and had the knots rubbed out in no time. Once all of the oils and mask had done their job, the treatment followed with a micro-current facial, using a high-frequency current and light to finish off.

    Ingredients like the pure rose water used in the Karmatone are one of the reasons that Lesley does everything herself. If she were to outsource her production, a manufacturer would likely not use such pure, high-quality ingredients, as they would be looking at the profit margins too closely.

    Having suffered from skin complaints in the past, Lesley knows only too well what an effect it can have on someone’s confidence. This is precisely why everything is done in-house. You can buy Karma Skincare online or pop into Sisters for a treatment.

    www.karmaskincare.co.uk

    Text Mia Wallace
    Photos Chloe Ophelia
  • The One

    The One

    Fine dining at Tivoli Carvoeiro

    With one foot firmly set in Portugal, The One Gourmet Restaurant of the Tivoli Carvoeiro Hotel & Resort enjoys a spectacular view out over the glistening Atlantic. Here, the chef and his team celebrate the abundantly available fruits of the nearby sea and countryside to the north.

    Dining at The One is a journey through Portugal, with recipes full of considerable ethnic influences. Executive chef Bruno Augusto has an impressive pedigree, with experience both internationally and locally with Vila Vita, in Porches, The Ritz, Cascais Miragem, near Lisbon, and, more recently, Vale d’Oliveiras, right here in Carvoeiro. Now in place at the pass of Tivoli Carvoeiro, the young chef is full of enthusiasm and creativity.

    Applying French technique and Asian minimalism, The One has a sophisticated style and presentation. The restaurant itself isn’t all about the view — but what a view it is. The décor has tonnes of natural fabrics in the wall coverings, and a central, curved green velvet bench takes centre stage, offering a variety of comfortable seating options. There is also a sprinkling of individual tables towards the terrace area leading onto the minimalistic dressed setting that soaks up the endless sea view in front of it. The ambience is perfect for sitting back and enjoying the dining experience ahead.

    The team are knowledgeable, and a wine pairing dinner is a fabulous option for guests who are happy to leave their fate in the capable hands of sommelier Francisco Meira, who takes great pleasure in delivering a bespoke pairing to suit the guests’ taste. Franciso is keen to showcase the best offerings from local winemakers and has a fabulous wine cellar at his disposal, taking the dining experience to another level.

    The menu is varied with fish, meat and vegetarian options. It also has a good range of balance with a vegetarian tasting menu, which is fairly unusual in the Algarve. The produce that chef Augusto is using is top class, with deep flavours of wild fish, organic vegetables and local meats featuring throughout the menus. Guests can enjoy an à la carte experience at The One, should they prefer something a little lighter with individual dishes or sharing options giving great flexibility. Diners will find the service to be attentive yet relaxed, which fits in well with the general vibe of the resort.

    The One is located next to the Azur Bar, where both resort guests and non-residents are welcome to enjoy a drink and lounge whilst enjoying piped music and a warm sea breeze. Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean on the Vale Covo cliffside, Tivoli Carvoeiro is a fully refurbished five-star hotel and resort, ensuring spectacular experiences in luxury surroundings. There are 248 suites and rooms with different capacities, including family suites and luxurious rooms with Jacuzzi tubs on the terrace. The gym is available for non-residents too, under a membership scheme, and has a sauna and steam room on the side of it, making it a perfect hang out for the winter months. An indoor pool and Jacuzzi can be found on a lower floor as can the large outdoor pool.

    The spa is also open to everyone. Once inside, guests are transported to a haven of tranquillity where the beauticians work their magic. Ceramics made especially for Tivoli by local icon Porches Pottery are dotted around, highlighting the company’s ethos of sustainability and involving the community. The décor is a fresh blend of Asian and Portuguese and creates an elegant and calming environment.

    www.tivolihotels.com

    Text Mia Wallace
    Photos Filipe Farinha/Stills
  • Artistic licence

    Artistic licence

    Long-time local resident and highly skilled craftsman David Pearce opens a portrait studio in Ferragudo

    Staying with the theme of the 50th edition of Inside Carvoeiro magazine, we stopped by Ferragudo to see our old friend David. Having presented his stunning handcrafted wooden boats in a previous edition, we were pleased to hear that he was doing something a little less physical now that he’s in his 70s.

    David now dedicates his time to painting portraits. Using watercolour, acrylic and oils, he’s always keen to find a medium to enhance the commissioning customers’ memory of the subject they want. “I work from photographs,” said the artist. “People come to me with a photo of their pets, people or places and I get to it.” With many of his commissions being of loved ones and pets, he takes great joy out of delivering the final pieces and seeing the emotion on the faces of the buyers.

    When asked about his formal training, David explained: “I studied art at Worthing College, in West Sussex, where I later went back to teach for a brief period. I then trained as an architect, which was probably a terrible thing to do as a free artist, everything began to be very linear. Although, saying that, it did give me discipline, which is always welcome,” he joked. As an internationally acclaimed portrait artist, previously with studios in California and London, the artist’s modest gallery in the Algarve is located on Rua da Hortinha, in Ferragudo, next to the coffee shops. He usually spends his mornings here working on commissions, and, if the door is closed, he’s never too far away.

    David is a man of many talents. He has sailed and lived around the world, is a highly skilled carpenter and even turned his hand to the restaurant business. People may remember him from the old Tasca David, where he was known to serve the best ribs in the Algarve for years. There aren’t many people around like him, a lovely, funny and fascinating character who has chosen to settle in this sleepy corner of the world. That is quite an endorsement considering that he has been to so many places.

    David welcomes a subject for portrait painting commissions that touches your heart: painted portraits of family, pets, landscapes or even your home. For an initial quotation, he requires a good quality photo of the subject for the portrait painting in person, by email or post. You can see some examples of his work on his website or pop into his studio and have a chat about what you would like to achieve. David is a master craftsman, and if you’re looking for something out of the ordinary, he would be more than happy to get creative.

    There’s the saying, “Jack of all trades, master of none”; and then there’s David, who’s a master of many.

    www.pearceportraits.com

  • Retreat in Alamos

    Retreat in Alamos

    The new adults-only B&B is perfect to recharge and enjoy some precious relaxation time

    When we heard that one of our favourite hotel managers was setting up a boutique retreat, we were very excited to see what Lourenço Ribeiro and his lovely wife Luisa had created. Positioned in between the Atlantic Ocean and Guia, Lourenço and Luisa have taken their extensive travel knowledge and experience and made great use of it. What they have achieved is a real haven away from the hustle and bustle of Algarve summer life.

    This is a place to relax, listen to the birds gently chirping in the trees and take some time for yourself. There are eight country-chic, luxuriously boho-styled rooms from 19sqm to a whopping 30sqm, furnished with natural fabrics and linens with accents from local artisans. The size and sensation of natural flow and light that encapsulates these spaces will take you by surprise. Each room has an open-plan shower area with organic toiletries by French brand Damana and plush, cotton towels with big fluffy robes and slippers for that ultimate ‘hotel’ feel. Rooms have essence diffusers and a kettle with a selection of herbal infusions along with a pitcher of water and some fruit.

    Alamos Retreat is all about wellbeing, and that’s highly evident in the breakfast lounge, where guests are treated to a buffet of healthy and biological, homemade gluten-free pancakes, muffins, fruits, local cheeses — including lactose-free choices — freshly made juices and the best eggs around. The menu is mostly vegetarian, with gluten-free and vegan options aplenty. However, carnivores will not be made to feel uncomfortable at all and will leave feeling none the wiser that the retreat is predominantly vegetarian. Breakfast is a very leisurely affair, and they don’t adhere to a strict timetable, which is refreshing. Guests come and go throughout the morning, and nothing is too much trouble for the staff.

    Being adults-only was a welcome change, and as the guests are all there for the same reason, it is tranquil and very chilled out. In the central area of the retreat, you’ll find a refreshing kidney-shaped pool, rattan loungers and shade to enjoy lazy afternoons. Morning yoga is a part of the experience at Alamos, and after a perfect night’s sleep, there’s no better way to start the day than a gentle and invigorating yoga session, which is included as a part of the Bed & Breakfast package. By the pool, there’s something very unusual — an anti-gravity, aerial yoga pavilion. At first, you might feel intimidated by the sight of these silky hammocks hanging from the pergola structure and there is a lot of giggling to begin with, but once everyone finds their balance and realises that the fabric can hold somewhat substantial weigh, participants get into the swing of it, and it is actually highly enjoyable and rewarding. More mainstream yoga, meditation and Pilates are also available, depending on the day but guests can check the schedule on the website or on social media.

    The retreat also offers an antioxidant reading that measures your antioxidant level. This gives you an insight into your lifestyle: It shows if you are healthy, if your consumption of fruits and vegetables is enough, if you are too stressed and, most importantly, if you are protected against diseases. “At Alamos Retreat, everything was designed so that our clients can recover their full health potential,” says Lourenço. Having dedicated most of his adult life to the hospitality industry, we were keen to find out the drive behind this new project and discovered that Lourenço is certified in Holistic Nutrition by the Institute of Traditional Medicine and holds detox seminars throughout the year at local hotels. He is passionate about wellness, cancer prevention, fitness, weight-loss hospitality and luxury lifestyle.

    Wife Luisa loves baking the fabulous, sugar-free cakes that are on offer at the lounge and enjoys bibliotherapy, art and handicrafts. She has made many of the things that you can see at the property, such as the macramé, and has been instrumental in the interior design of the property. Son Guilherme is the young apprentice and is learning the ropes as he goes along. He’s a natural, so it looks like this is the perfect project for the family to work together and build something sustainable and meaningful for the future.

    The beds are intended to be “one of the most comfortable in the region”, as the linen is 100% cotton. Guests can also choose from three types of pillows (standard, memory foam with essences and feathers). Lourenço’s extensive hotel experience is very apparent and the attention to detail is something else.

    www.algarvewellnessretreat.com

    Text Mia Wallace
    Photos Daniel Clarke